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D3 S8 owner dropping into S6 land looking for help

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Old 01-17-2015, 12:52 PM
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Default D3 S8 owner dropping into S6 land looking for help

Hello S6 V10 audience. I am posting over here from my typical D3 S8 home. The reason I'm here is that I have drop the motor on my S8 to repairs seal on the upper oil pan which requires the motor to be lowered out of its perch. With 72K

miles, is there anything I should be looking for being this far into it? I don't wanna have to do this again anytime soon at 29.5 hours of labor at roughly 100 bucks an hour of raw labor. Any ideas, thoughts or input is welcomed. Thanks for allowing me to drop into your forum and poach info.

Front end torn off the S8





The culprit leak.......arrgghhhhh
Old 01-17-2015, 02:27 PM
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If the engine is being removed then there are a number of things you can access and do maintenance on:

replace all seals
timing chain tensioners
engine mounts
coolant pipe seal on the rear of the engine

Also, depending on the mileage the torque convertor may be something you want to check and also do a full tranny fluid and filter change.
Old 01-17-2015, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by raj99
If the engine is being removed then there are a number of things you can access and do maintenance on:

replace all seals
timing chain tensioners
engine mounts
coolant pipe seal on the rear of the engine

Also, depending on the mileage the torque convertor may be something you want to check and also do a full tranny fluid and filter change.
Sorry to hear that you have to drop the engine so early. I think that the list above is right on target. Definitely re-seal the whole thing and I would also take this opportunity to use a borescope to check the valves and arrange for them to be cleaned if there is any hint of carbon.

I know my S6 (90k) is having a hint of oil smell when I back up my long driveway, and I suspect it is camshaft seals, so the seals are a good call too.
Old 01-17-2015, 06:39 PM
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Default reseal everything???

Originally Posted by boonies
Sorry to hear that you have to drop the engine so early. I think that the list above is right on target. Definitely re-seal the whole thing and I would also take this opportunity to use a borescope to check the valves and arrange for them to be cleaned if there is any hint of carbon.

I know my S6 (90k) is having a hint of oil smell when I back up my long driveway, and I suspect it is camshaft seals, so the seals are a good call too.
when you guys say "reseal everything" what are you referring to? Why would I break into sections of the motor that are not compromised? That seems like a sure fire way to invite more issues. I cant imagine that humans could lay a better bead of silicone than the robots that put these things together originally. But maybe y'all are referring to something else??? Roughly how much to the tensioners cost along with these other parts? I am sorta at the end of my budget getting the seal redone. I will replace the serpentine belt for sure since its likely to have never been done at 72K
Old 01-18-2015, 07:51 AM
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I have not seen long-term reliability on oil seepage for the V10 engine, but you already have one seal failure and I know mine has some as well.

Labor costs are your enemy, so now is the time to look for areas to re-seal as the seals and silicone weaken with age and stress from the heat/cool cycles.

The real key to an investment is your desire to keep or sell the car...if you will sell at 120-130k, then i wouldn't do anything extra.
Old 01-18-2015, 09:59 AM
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If it's going to be out, DEFINITELY do the timing tensioners. No better time than while it's already out.
Old 01-18-2015, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Fastbird
If it's going to be out, DEFINITELY do the timing tensioners. No better time than while it's already out.
How many timing chain tensioners are we taking about? Isn't there at least 3 and maybe 4?
Old 01-19-2015, 05:58 AM
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No No and No on the timing Tensioners, the V10 does not have issues with tensioners-rails like the V8 or V6, if I were you I would just change what needs to be changed that's all. That being said change as many gaskets as possible that are easily accessible (Oil pan gasket def. looks wet) and belt and tensioner. No need to change Engine mounts unless they are bad (they are $350 each after all)
Old 01-19-2015, 10:36 AM
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Check out the C6 S6 Info Dump for common points of failure with the Audi v10 from the S6/S8

Audi C6 S6 v10 Info Dump
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