AFrancis

Has anyone here replaced their own front wheel hub bearings on a 4.2? I can't find a forum or video with a DIY on it. From what I've been reading the 4.2 is different than the 3.2 in which the hub doesn't have to be pressed its just a bolt down? Any further hl or anyone know of write up/DIY

klatoszek

Wheel Bearing Unit

Special tools, testers and auxiliary items required

¤ Torque wrench (V.A.G 1331)
¤ Torque wrench (V.A.G 1332)
¤ Torque wrench (V.A.G 1576)
¤ CV joint boot clamp tool (T40067)
Removing

Affects Vehicles with Air Suspension

Place the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to => [ Positioning Vehicle on Hoist and Wheels ] See: Steering and Suspension\Suspension\Service and Repair\Procedures\Positioning Vehicle on Hoist and Wheels.
Affects All Vehicles

Remove wheel trim cap, remove cover cap on light-alloy wheels (removal hook in vehicle tool kit).
Loosen collar bolt for outer joint of drive axle (only loosen when vehicle is standing on its wheels -danger of accident-). Refer to => [ Drive Axle Outer Joint Collar Bolt, Loosening and Tightening ] See: Transmission and Drivetrain\Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints\Axle Shaft Assembly\Description and Operation.
Remove noise insulation.
Remove brake caliper and secure to body so that the weight of the brake caliper does not stress or damage brake hose or brake line.
Remove ABS speed sensor bolt - 5 -.


Disengage ABS cable at wheel bearing housing.
Remove the brake disc.
Remove the drive axle - 1 - from the flange shaft.


Loosen the threaded connection - 1 - and remove both control arms - 2 - upward.


¤ The slits in the wheel bearing housing must not be widened using a chisel or similar tool!
Tilt the wheel bearing housing to the side while pulling the drive axle pins out of the wheel hub.
Remove drive axle.
Insert both joint stubs of upper control arm - 2 - in wheel bearing housing and only insert bolt - 1 -.


¤ This step is necessary to avoid damage to suspension components when loosening and tightening the bolts.
Remove countersunk bolts - 1 -.


Remove wheel bearing unit.

¤ Avoid contaminating with dirt and damaging the seal when setting down/storing.
The wheel bearing - 1 - must always face up.


Always set the wheel bearing unit down on the wheel hub - 2 -.
Service the wheel bearing unit. Refer to => [ Wheel Bearing Unit ] See: Steering and Suspension\Steering\Front Steering Knuckle\Service and Repair\Overhaul.
Installing

Install in reverse order of removal. Note the following:

Insert both linkage stubs of upper control arms in wheel bearing housing and tension as far as possible downward using (T40067).


Insert new bolt - 2 - and self-locking nut and tighten. Refer to => [ Wheel Bearing Housing and Wheel Bearing Unit Assembly Overview ] See: Steering and Suspension\Steering\Front Steering Knuckle\Service and Repair\Removal and Replacement.


Tightening specifications, refer to => [ Wheel Bearing Housing and Wheel Bearing Unit Assembly Overview ] See: Steering and Suspension\Steering\Front Steering Knuckle\Service and Repair\Removal and Replacement.

Install wheel.
On vehicles with air suspension, position vehicle on wheels. Refer to => [ Positioning Vehicle on Hoist and Wheels ] See: Steering and Suspension\Suspension\Service and Repair\Procedures\Positioning Vehicle on Hoist and Wheels.
Tighten wheel.

klatoszek

The procedure outlined is for a 3.2. I'm not sure how much it will differ from the 4.2.

AFrancis

Thanks but that didnt help at all...... Anyone have complete write up, video, or atleast did it themselfs before.

MainlandMig

the above instructions confused the heck out me
i will re read it again see what i can pull from it
i would assume 3.2 is no different
i had a local shop do the work on my 4.2..but if my 3.0t has an issue i hope plan to DIY it

here is an old thread

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2797846

klatoszek

Idk how the previous procedure was pasted. I've updated the post with what should be the front wheel bearing removal and replacement.

KnappAttack

I replaced my front wheel bearing on my 05 4.2 sport package. Toughest part was getting the bolts tight after torquing to spec. Don't remember exactly but had to twist 180 deg. I think. Had to use a 3/4" breaker bar with a long pipe on for leverage. Man they were tight when done!

I bought my bearing parts kit from ECS tuning. Did have to press out the hubs from old bearings and press hubs back in to new bearings. Not a bad job if you have the tools which I did.

AFrancis

If i purchase the Hub and bearing i wont need the press, it would be a blot on fix, correct? since press is only needed to remove hub from old bearings.

KnappAttack

That is correct, also a waste of hubs, they press out and in very easy if you know anyone with a press. You'll still need the tools to remove bolts from housing and axle. As I recall the four bolts that hold brg. housing on are 12mm 12 point triple squares, and 19mm allen for axle bolt. Axle bolt tq is fine but then to turn it 180* was a bear. I could only get it twisted 90* with 1/2" drive breaker and pipe. I had to take it to work to get the last 90* on the bolt using 3/4" breaker and pipe. That Axle bolt is not going anywhere!