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A6 (A3, A8) doors not unlocking.

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Old 10-23-2019, 05:09 AM
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Awesome info Mike, thank you for compiling that and sharing it.
Old 10-23-2019, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeSYates
Hi,
I have had a passenger door lock fail, and recently the drivers door lock fail. The second failure was particularly confusing and so I have spent a lot of time working out what was going on. For my own purposes I have written a description document of the Lock Actuator based on my findings, so I though I would share it with the forum. I hope it helps somebody to have a less confusing time than I did, with the diagnosis of their faults. This forum was a great help in working on the problem and already includes quite a lot of stuff on the lock removal so I have limited the content to a description of the operation of the lock, and the interfaces to the vehicle.

My own particular problem on the drivers side was inability to unlock remotely. Although remote locking was fine.
So I replaced the drivers door lock with an ebay item, only to later discover that the manual unlock was now not working.
After a lot of investigation, I realised the new part had a design fault such that the switches which respond to the drivers key rotation, were indicating in reverse. i.e clockwise turning was indicated as anti-clockwise turning.

Reverting to the old lock, I realised that I just needed to replace the locking motor, so I swapped it from the new part. That fixed the problem.
Wow!! You are a lock NINJA!!! Way more info than I ever hope to need but great job.
Old 10-28-2019, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeSYates
Hi,
I have had a passenger door lock fail, and recently the drivers door lock fail. The second failure was particularly confusing and so I have spent a lot of time working out what was going on. For my own purposes I have written a description document of the Lock Actuator based on my findings......
Go to the top of the class Mike! I've sold my 2007 A6, no issues with replacement 2015 version locks. Still have my spare dismantled in a box, free to any A6 lock nerds who enjoy this kind of thing.
Old 10-28-2019, 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by deezell
Go to the top of the class Mike! I've sold my 2007 A6, no issues with replacement 2015 version locks. Still have my spare dismantled in a box, free to any A6 lock nerds who enjoy this kind of thing.
Thanks I probably went a bit too nerdy on this subject, and I hope I never have to open up another door lock again. Although I can probably do it eyes closed now.
Old 12-19-2019, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeSYates
Thanks I probably went a bit too nerdy on this subject, and I hope I never have to open up another door lock again. Although I can probably do it eyes closed now.
Hi Mike

thanks once again for your great PDF with info about the lock actuator mechanism. I believe there is a typo on page 3, where you say:

“Locked means the exterior handle is engaged and will operate to release the latch. The interior handle will not operate.” The words exterior and interior should be reversed surely?

I’m probably going to have to remove my driver’s door lock actuator and replace it, as it has been intermittently giving trouble for a few months whereby the remote would not unlock the door (exterior handle was not active after car is unlocked via remote), but unlocking with the key works ok. Now it seems to never unlock that door with the remote and I’m seeing 02115 “signal implausible” fault code from driver’s door lock in VCDS.

I have bought a replacement actuator and will swap it over, and if that doesn’t work I’ll have to raid it for the motor and swap that into the OEM actuator currently fitted.

For those who have tackled this job, where is the best step by step guide to removing and refitting an actuator on driver’s door?
Old 12-19-2019, 03:21 AM
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My drivers door lock does not always unlock,
I just hold down the unlock button on the key fob to open the windows, then unlock the door with the inside handle.
Old 12-19-2019, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Sverige
Hi Mike

thanks once again for your great PDF with info about the lock actuator mechanism. I believe there is a typo on page 3, where you say:

“Locked means the exterior handle is engaged and will operate to release the latch. The interior handle will not operate.” The words exterior and interior should be reversed surely?

I’m probably going to have to remove my driver’s door lock actuator and replace it, as it has been intermittently giving trouble for a few months whereby the remote would not unlock the door (exterior handle was not active after car is unlocked via remote), but unlocking with the key works ok. Now it seems to never unlock that door with the remote and I’m seeing 02115 “signal implausible” fault code from driver’s door lock in VCDS.

I have bought a replacement actuator and will swap it over, and if that doesn’t work I’ll have to raid it for the motor and swap that into the OEM actuator currently fitted.

For those who have tackled this job, where is the best step by step guide to removing and refitting an actuator on driver’s door?
Hi Sverige,
Yes you are right the words exterior and interior should be exchanged. Well spotted - I don't know how I missed that.
As regards your fault it sounds exactly like the one I had, the problem being that the lock motor has failed. The Deadlock motor still locks the door when you operate your remote, but it can't unlock it. If you do swap the actuator as a whole, watch out for the problem I had with a new ebay actuator which indicated the key position the wrong way round. Anyway if needed , you can still swap the motor as you say.

Some Notes I made on removing the Actuator, may be some help.

· Trim removal
  • Apply even pressure on the trim , there is no easy way to unlock the clips.
  • Tried removing trim with rubber gloves, still not enough friction,
  • Resorted to using the decorators Tool, flat blade and levering off.
  • NOTE: One the trim is removed, all the clips on the Trim need to be popped out , because on re-installation they fit into place and then expand when compressed with a clipping effect.
· Door insulation, this only needs to be partly removed to get access to a few bolts.
  • Cutting the glue, while gently pulling works fine and the insulation sticks back easily
· Window frame and regulator removal:
  • Take care to label all the bolts especially the arm rest one which has to be limited in length. Otherwise window will be damaged by bolt.
  • Remember to unclip the gear mechanism from the door frame (picture 20190913_185117)
  • Remove trim on the inside of the Door mirror to expose bolt 11.(see picture note this is the passenger side on RH drive car)
·There is a plastic shield over the drivers lock actuator and lock cylinder assembly. This can be removed by first removing a blind rivet (by pushing out the centre), then moving the part of it that goes around the connector at the bottom so that it is clear from the connector, then squeezing in the right places. On re-installation shield was secured with gorilla tape as the rivet was not repairable.

Remember to unclip the window motor drive from the door frame, before lifting out the window frame and regulator.


This bolt is concealed by the door mirror trim.
Old 12-19-2019, 05:40 AM
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Thanks Mike, awesome info. I’ll refer to your post as I tackle this job.
Old 12-26-2021, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeSYates
For my own purposes I have written a description document of the Lock Actuator based on my findings, so I though I would share it with the forum. I hope it helps somebody to have a less confusing time than I did, with the diagnosis of their faults
Great description of how the lock works! Small note to "Lock Actuator Description for forum.pdf"
Maybe it's a typo, change the places of LOCK MOTOR and DEADLOCK MOTOR in Fig1


Old 12-26-2021, 12:54 AM
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And here (fig2)




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