Is this what I need to do my rear brakes on my 2.8L???
02-18-2009, 12:01 PM
#12
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No, I mean thinner. See photo.
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/155127/407321.jpg"></center><p>I had to make this piece thinner in order for the tool to fit inside the extended caliper.
Sorry if I'm having a hard time describing this.
Sorry if I'm having a hard time describing this.
02-18-2009, 01:54 PM
#14
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Part in my kit is 3/16" thick. I had to remake 1/16" thick to fit.
My brakes had zero pad left when I changed them, so calipers were at max possible travel (smallest gap for tool to fit in).
02-18-2009, 02:09 PM
#15
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Does the lady do brakes wet?
02-18-2009, 02:11 PM
#16
AudiWorld Super User
Oh..the tool. Yes...the HF will work but will probably break.
There's a little cheap roll pin in there that is apparently cheap chinese steel...it sheared on me when I did my 4.2 rear brakes.
You can use a drill shank and slide it side to side every 180 degrees or so....or replace the roll pin up front with a good US one...have to grind the roll pin to the exact length.
You can use a drill shank and slide it side to side every 180 degrees or so....or replace the roll pin up front with a good US one...have to grind the roll pin to the exact length.
02-18-2009, 02:17 PM
#17
AudiWorld Super User
good, bad, and ugly from HF
<ul><li><a href="http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2008/08/06/buyer-beware-a-harbor-freight-buying-guide-the-good-enough-the-bad-and-the-abysmal/">http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2008/08/06/buyer-beware-a-harbor-freight-buying-guide-the-good-enough-the-bad-a
02-18-2009, 02:26 PM
#19
AudiWorld Super User
at the same time. It might work with a c-clamp and a slip-joint pliers
but various sources also indicate that technique can damage the piston dust boot.
