Thinkg of buying an Audi
#1
Thinkg of buying an Audi
Hello everyone im new to the forum and im thinking of buying an 2000 A6 2.7t 6spd with 68k on it with new timing and water pump i dont know a lot about Audis so any help on what i should look for when i test drive it would be helpful....the pictures look great and its loaded but i know pics only go so far and thanks again
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Hello everyone im new to the forum and im thinking of buying an 2000 A6 2.7t 6spd with 68k on it with new timing and water pump i dont know a lot about Audis so any help on what i should look for when i test drive it would be helpful....the pictures look great and its loaded but i know pics only go so far and thanks again
#3
Audiworld Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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If you have a code reader bring it along and record any code it may shows. If you don't test drive the car and ask to stop at one of the big auto parts store. They'll read the codes for free.
The 2000 Pre-Face lift A6 is a stout little puppy. The 6 speed 01E is the preferred trans and is pretty robust. At 68K the car is barely broken in.
That being said the car is known for having it share of problems. I'll start with the easy ones.
Water ingress-Sunroof drains, Cowl drains, Antenna base(If equipped with a roof top antenna) The windshield rain tray and the trunk seal are all know water entry spots. feel the carpets real good for wetness and make note of any funky smell in the interior. Smells funky its probably leaking somewhere.
Rust- The front fenders, lower door panels and Sub frames are areas to look at.
Motor- Check for oil leaks at the cam covers and rear area of heads. Pull the oil cap and look for sludge and excessive amounts of white gunk. a small amount is ok but if its loaded up walk away. Vacuum lines are probably shot so look them over good. The engine harness tends to become very brittle from the excessive heat produced by the twin turbo. look for repairs and signs electrical tape. After your test drive pop the hood and look for smoke or steam.
Heater core- make sure the heat blows nice and hot and that all the different circulation modes work. Clogged heater cores are a know problem and are no fun to swap out.
Trans- make sure the trans shifts smoothly. Pay particular attention to 1st & 2nd gear. If its hard to get into gear and grinds the trans will need to come out to be fix. Check for excessive slop in the shifter. Driving a speed lift off the gas and then back on. If you fee anything through the shifter its a bad mount somewhere or the driveshaft center carrier.
Dash-Turn the key on and take a picture of what lights up. You have to be quick because some light will extinguish. Start the car and again check the cluster lights. See what's lit up and take a picture. ABS, ESP,EDL, Check engine, Immobilizer, Door ajar are some of the lights you should see. Turn the head lights on and again see how the cluster looks. The center LCD info area tends to go bad and you may not be able to read any of that info, Take a picture of it.
Turn the key to accessory and listen for the fuel pump. Its under the rear seat. If its loud that's usually an indication of future repairs. Start the car, If you hear a noise coming from the firewall area its the secondary air pump and the bearing is shot or going bad.
Central locks- make sure the key remote locks and unlocks all doors, That the alarm functions and that the interior lights come on when you open the doors. The interior light should extinguish about 15 seconds after you get out and shut the door. Make sure the trunk switch works and you can pop the trunk with the remote.
Windows-Run all windows up and down a few times. Check for any type of hesitation or tilt to the glass. Window regulators are a know problem.
Turbos- While at speed abruptly let off the gas. Look in the rear view for a cloud of smoke, That's no bueno. Mash the gas and look for the cloud. See if the turbo spools up properly. There will be some lag but if it seems like a lot again that's no good.
Well that should get you in the ball park. I hope others add to the list.
I always recommend that you take the car to the Audi dealer and pay for a thorough inspection. It worth the coin upfront. Post up some pictures and let us know what you find. Good luck
The 2000 Pre-Face lift A6 is a stout little puppy. The 6 speed 01E is the preferred trans and is pretty robust. At 68K the car is barely broken in.
That being said the car is known for having it share of problems. I'll start with the easy ones.
Water ingress-Sunroof drains, Cowl drains, Antenna base(If equipped with a roof top antenna) The windshield rain tray and the trunk seal are all know water entry spots. feel the carpets real good for wetness and make note of any funky smell in the interior. Smells funky its probably leaking somewhere.
Rust- The front fenders, lower door panels and Sub frames are areas to look at.
Motor- Check for oil leaks at the cam covers and rear area of heads. Pull the oil cap and look for sludge and excessive amounts of white gunk. a small amount is ok but if its loaded up walk away. Vacuum lines are probably shot so look them over good. The engine harness tends to become very brittle from the excessive heat produced by the twin turbo. look for repairs and signs electrical tape. After your test drive pop the hood and look for smoke or steam.
Heater core- make sure the heat blows nice and hot and that all the different circulation modes work. Clogged heater cores are a know problem and are no fun to swap out.
Trans- make sure the trans shifts smoothly. Pay particular attention to 1st & 2nd gear. If its hard to get into gear and grinds the trans will need to come out to be fix. Check for excessive slop in the shifter. Driving a speed lift off the gas and then back on. If you fee anything through the shifter its a bad mount somewhere or the driveshaft center carrier.
Dash-Turn the key on and take a picture of what lights up. You have to be quick because some light will extinguish. Start the car and again check the cluster lights. See what's lit up and take a picture. ABS, ESP,EDL, Check engine, Immobilizer, Door ajar are some of the lights you should see. Turn the head lights on and again see how the cluster looks. The center LCD info area tends to go bad and you may not be able to read any of that info, Take a picture of it.
Turn the key to accessory and listen for the fuel pump. Its under the rear seat. If its loud that's usually an indication of future repairs. Start the car, If you hear a noise coming from the firewall area its the secondary air pump and the bearing is shot or going bad.
Central locks- make sure the key remote locks and unlocks all doors, That the alarm functions and that the interior lights come on when you open the doors. The interior light should extinguish about 15 seconds after you get out and shut the door. Make sure the trunk switch works and you can pop the trunk with the remote.
Windows-Run all windows up and down a few times. Check for any type of hesitation or tilt to the glass. Window regulators are a know problem.
Turbos- While at speed abruptly let off the gas. Look in the rear view for a cloud of smoke, That's no bueno. Mash the gas and look for the cloud. See if the turbo spools up properly. There will be some lag but if it seems like a lot again that's no good.
Well that should get you in the ball park. I hope others add to the list.
I always recommend that you take the car to the Audi dealer and pay for a thorough inspection. It worth the coin upfront. Post up some pictures and let us know what you find. Good luck
#4
Audiworld Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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I want to add.
Do a carfax.com(expensive) or instavin.com(cheap).
Ask for service history documentation. Have owner product receipts for timing belt service. Stickers are available on line for a few bucks so make sure to see some proof. Find out who services the car and go speak with them. The price of these cars have really come down over the last year. I would pay a max of 5K for a 2000 A6 2.7t in mint condition. A really good buy is in the 2500.00-3500.00 range. My opinion of course.
tons of cars out there to choose from so take your time and you'll end up with something really sweet.
Do a carfax.com(expensive) or instavin.com(cheap).
Ask for service history documentation. Have owner product receipts for timing belt service. Stickers are available on line for a few bucks so make sure to see some proof. Find out who services the car and go speak with them. The price of these cars have really come down over the last year. I would pay a max of 5K for a 2000 A6 2.7t in mint condition. A really good buy is in the 2500.00-3500.00 range. My opinion of course.
tons of cars out there to choose from so take your time and you'll end up with something really sweet.
#5
AudiWorld Super User
i agree with the comment that you better know what you are doing to buy an Audi . i think most everyone on this forum does some of their own work. These cars are getting older now at allmost 15 years old . they are going to need service and no matter how good it looks , even with a PPI things will come up and these beasts are expensive to fix.
Either get your wallet out or get dirty.. sounds like the timing belt has been done but who knows what is right around the corner. its easy to reset the codes ... you just might find codes popping up within few days/weeks of you buying it.
Just peruse the forum and see how many guys bought a car and within a few days codes start popping up for misfires and transmision issues..
just a fair warning...
Either get your wallet out or get dirty.. sounds like the timing belt has been done but who knows what is right around the corner. its easy to reset the codes ... you just might find codes popping up within few days/weeks of you buying it.
Just peruse the forum and see how many guys bought a car and within a few days codes start popping up for misfires and transmision issues..
just a fair warning...
#6
thanks for all the info everyone...yah we just got acouple feet of snow so it may be afew days till i can get to go see the guy to drive it...ill run down the list you all provided...im not against doing my own work usest to working on VWs so thats no big deal im going to keep doing research im just looking for something that has low miles and will last i dont have huge plans for this thing if i get it...itll stay stock unless turbos go then Ko4s will go in but thats about it...if i do get it ill post up pics for yah
#7
http://syracuse.craigslist.org/ctd/4268559256.html
here the link with the info and some pics if you wanna take a look
here the link with the info and some pics if you wanna take a look
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#8
AudiWorld Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: North Carolina
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http://syracuse.craigslist.org/ctd/4268559256.html
here the link with the info and some pics if you wanna take a look
here the link with the info and some pics if you wanna take a look
#9
AudiWorld Super User
http://syracuse.craigslist.org/ctd/4268559256.html
here the link with the info and some pics if you wanna take a look
here the link with the info and some pics if you wanna take a look
But check with vag-com the instrument cluster may have been replaced and resequenced/lowered. It might have 67K on it since the instrument cluster was replaced….