P-Zero

No worries man. There is a TSB about the seals failing around the cam's actuator block (the piece right behind the cam gears). I've gotten the same advice from some friends that are techs about the chain. I was expecting to see a chain when I removed the valve cover, you could imagine reaction when there wasn't one there.

I'm definitely going to drop the pan one way or another. It very well could be plugged up since the previous owners weren't timely with their oil changes and used regular 5w30 oil. There was some gunk/sludge buildup on the heads, so it couldn't hurt to clean it out. May try an old trick using ATF to clean it.
Thanks a bunch JC!
Not driving the A6 until it's fixed. Was planning on using the A6 as my winter car. I have an E55 for the summer.
And thanks a bunch for the tips! I'm going to drop the lower pan and see what's up with it after I check oil pressure. Hopefully it doesn't need a pump. If it does, that may be the final nail in the coffin for this thing since the pumps are $1500!

Prospeeder

Have never seen them need a pump. Probably just full of sludge and those orings for the pipes from the pump to the block are hard and leaking off pressure. Dont try adding anything to the oil. When you get to interact with sludge or coke, you will instantly realize, NOTHING but a scraper with touch it, no chemical is gonna dissolve it, and if it does. God you really want that **** chewing through the oil pump and engine lol.

P-Zero

Well that's great news then!

The old "trick" is draining out all of the old oil and filling the engine with just regular ATF (Dextron III), then running it for approximately 10-15 minutes @ idle. Since it's oil based and has A TON of detergents in it, it cleans out engines pretty well without the risk of engine damage.

Have done this on numerous engines with great results actually.

Prospeeder

Well, now since engines run such high temperatures, the oil actually cooks to a gritty carbon and is untouched by such methods. Back in the day, engines ran cooler, and the sludge was soft and easily moved. The stuff in engines these days is hard as rock. I have soaked the stuff in brake cleaner and its stills a hard mass of crap lol.

P-Zero

Just redid an old '84 Jeep CJ. Man, that thing had 1/4" of hardened sludge all over the inside of the block. Nothing was cutting through that. I had to use scrapers everywhere. The end result was pretty nice. Have a look.

N_Jay

Modern engines actually run cooler (Or A should say, with less hot spots to cook the oil) than old engines.
Heavy deposits came from running the oil WAY too long, not from the average temps.

All the crap about new/small engine being harder on oil, is from the oil companies trying to scare people into more oil changes with "their" special oil.

I have heard all sorts of "magic" engine cleaners form ATF to diesel fuel to mineral spirits.
In the end if the deposits are enough to stop proper oil flow, or cause local overheating problems, none of the tricks really work, and if the problem is not that bad, no one has before and after pictures to show it really did anything.

N_Jay

Looks nice.

Makes me miss my '56 and the '48 I built for a friend.

Airbag

i have heard that with the ATF

too bad the other guy isnt on here .. he poked up through the block and got about 5 litres in the face.

bet he could tell you exactly what to look for ... im sure he has the oil out of his nostrils by now ..

Prospeeder

Sorry your wrong. The 1.8T is a good example of running high temps and having hot spots cooking the oil. Also Volvo 5 cylinder turbos, Saab 2.3 and 2.0T engines and Toyota V6's and Rav 4 2.0s, BMW V8s, Chrysler 2.7 V6. All from hot spots cooking down the oil they recommend to leave in engines too long. They run the cylinder heads much hotter to try and meet emissions and the oil cooks in the heads and turns to grit. Newer engines DO have greater demand on oil, There are way more moving parts with VVT, cylinder deactivation, valve lift control, large OHC timing chain setups, , much higher oil temperatures, and way to long of oil intervals ect ect. You are very mistaken if you think newer engines are easier on oil.

And your theroy on Companies wanting oil changes sooner?? Really dude, do some research or open your eyes. Auto manufactures are stretching oil changes so far out its destroying engines before 100k miles. BMW is now up to 20k oil changes. Ya thats gonna last 200k.....All companies are trying to tout thier oil going 10k+ miles.

I do agree the people thinking dumping ATF in the oil or flushes do something have never proven it did anything. Even if it did, It just put it all in the oil pickup screen lol.

N_Jay

Believe what you like. Oil has changed a little and engines have changed a lot allowing 10K, 13K, 15K and now even 20K change intervals when not that many years ago 3K was the norm and 5K was "long", and 7.5K was amazing.

Lots of cars with extended change intervals run just fine well past 150K and even well past 200K miles.

What takes cars off the road these days due to mileage is transmissions, and other expensive items, not engine rebuilds.