I just hit 60 k on my audi. Thinking to replace timing belt/water pump.
07-13-2007, 03:21 PM
#1
I just hit 60 k on my audi. Thinking to replace timing belt/water pump.
ECS offers timing belt kit for 599.00
# Timing belt
# Relay roller (right bank)
# Idler roller (;left bank)
# Tensioner Roller
# Water Pump
# Thermostat Assembly
# Accessory drive belt
# 2 liters of G12 1.5 liter bottles
# Valve cover gaskets (2), most kits on the market omit this from their kits
# Tensioner dampner (shock)
Has anybody had any experience with this kit?
Does the price sound right?
# Timing belt
# Relay roller (right bank)
# Idler roller (;left bank)
# Tensioner Roller
# Water Pump
# Thermostat Assembly
# Accessory drive belt
# 2 liters of G12 1.5 liter bottles
# Valve cover gaskets (2), most kits on the market omit this from their kits
# Tensioner dampner (shock)
Has anybody had any experience with this kit?
Does the price sound right?
07-13-2007, 05:28 PM
#4
AudiWorld Super User
Maybe just the belt?
Timing and serpentine. You have a 2004, so I wouldn't think the thermostat is very likely to be about to go. The rollers and such similarly.
Particularly if you do your own labor and would do the full-on replacement later, or if you intend to sell it in a couple years, I would probably save the +/-$500 parts delta and just do the belts only. If you had an older one like a 2000, I could see doing all the parts.
Particularly if you do your own labor and would do the full-on replacement later, or if you intend to sell it in a couple years, I would probably save the +/-$500 parts delta and just do the belts only. If you had an older one like a 2000, I could see doing all the parts.
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07-13-2007, 07:00 PM
#8
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I disagree. As I understand, the belt itself rarely is the reason for failure...
but rather the other components. I'm guessing the toothed (timing) belt would usually outlast the rollers, etc slightly, but that's sort of hard to measure (without relying on disaster).
Realistically, it'd probably be more likely for the t-stat or waterpump to go 15-30k miles after changing just the belt, requiring it to all be done again. Just waiting a little bit longer and doing it all makes more sense IMO.
Realistically, it'd probably be more likely for the t-stat or waterpump to go 15-30k miles after changing just the belt, requiring it to all be done again. Just waiting a little bit longer and doing it all makes more sense IMO.
07-13-2007, 07:42 PM
#9
AudiWorld Super User
Boy, if you are saying our W/P's last 60-80K miles these cars are JUNK!
Even 100LS (C1) water pumps could go that long. C2/C3 pumps went much longer. Yeah, fluke failures are possible, but at some point repeated $1000 plus (w/std. labor) change outs are getting extreme. I think where your argument really goes is toward delaying the whole job, which is what I was politely saying and I see other respondents thinking similarly.
In context, having read this board since mine was new in late 1999, in candor this whole subject is somewhat urban legend. The documented C5 engine failures due to belt (or other belt drive component) failures are almost none. Even at 1 in 100, that's $100,000 (!!!) worth of repairs to avoid a $3-10K engine job (depending on new vs. used, rebuilt, etc.) And I suspect the true failures are < 1 in 1,000. Instead, most of the failures and problems I have read about seem to have their more common origin in a maintenance attempt gone wrong--slipped belts, faulty timing, not using the camshaft locking tool, not putting the tensioner in right, etc.
In context, having read this board since mine was new in late 1999, in candor this whole subject is somewhat urban legend. The documented C5 engine failures due to belt (or other belt drive component) failures are almost none. Even at 1 in 100, that's $100,000 (!!!) worth of repairs to avoid a $3-10K engine job (depending on new vs. used, rebuilt, etc.) And I suspect the true failures are < 1 in 1,000. Instead, most of the failures and problems I have read about seem to have their more common origin in a maintenance attempt gone wrong--slipped belts, faulty timing, not using the camshaft locking tool, not putting the tensioner in right, etc.
