I am getting frustrated with this darn contorl arm
#11
There is no need to remove strut assemby, here is what you need to do....(long)
First of all make sure you have both front wheels off the ground. There is no need to remove the mounting bracket or springs, shocks, etc.
1) Remove the ball joint end of the control arm from the upright. Do not loosen the bolt on bushing end of the control arm yet.
2) Make sure you measure the rest position of the control arm after ball joint end was removed (from the top of the fender well or a good reference point) you will need to tighten the new one in the same position before you insert the ball joint end into the wheel upright. It is very important to tighten control arm bushings in the same position that it will be when the car sits on the ground. If you do not do this the bushing will fail in time.
3) Remove the nut from the bolt that mounts the control arm on the upper suspension tower assembly.
4) Remove the 3 bolts from inside the engine compartment that hold the upper suspension tower assembly.
5) Use a pry bar between lower control arm and chassis to push the upper suspension tower below the guiding pin. It may help to disconnect the sway bar link (especially if you have a stiffer one). If you have good leverage, both wheels in the air and sway bar link disconnected it should be relatively easy to clear the guide. I assume from your previous posts that you have already removed the small locking tab on the guide. The shock and spring assembly have nothing to do with your task. The only thing that is pushing the suspension up is the torsional rigidity of lower and rear upper control arm bushings (considering that sway bar link is removed).
6) Once you have cleared the guide push the upper suspension tower assembly towards the back of the car and remove the bolt from upper front control arm.
7) Replace the control arm, insert the bolt and put the nut on finger tight.
8) Place a floor jack under the suspension and position the upper tower suspension assembly correctly under the guide pin. Jack up the whole suspension back in place
9) Tighten the 3 bolts from inside the engine compartment to secure the suspension assembly.
10) Tighten the upper control arm bushing in the same position as in step 2). At this point the ball joint end should not be inserted into the top of the wheel carrier. If you did not get a chance to measure the rest position of the old control arm you can mount the new one approximately parallel to the ground, slightly lower from the ball joint end (considering that the car is leveled with both front wheels in the air). Make sure the bolt is tight.
11) Insert the ball joint end of the control arm into the top of the wheel carrier. This part is easier said than done. You may have to align the ball joint to match the axis of the hole, push the top of the wheel carrier forward and jack the suspension up, etc. The top rear control arm will try to pull the suspension towards the back. One way or another you will be able to insert the ball joint end into the wheel carrier.
12) Replace the bolt that secures the two upper control arms to the wheel carrier and tighten. You are done!
Good luck, and remember the most important part of the procedure. Control arm bushing needs to be tightened in the same position that it will be when the car sits on the ground (which is close to level).
Sure it will be difficult to insert the ball joint end into the wheel carrier but if you want it done correctly this is the procedure.
1) Remove the ball joint end of the control arm from the upright. Do not loosen the bolt on bushing end of the control arm yet.
2) Make sure you measure the rest position of the control arm after ball joint end was removed (from the top of the fender well or a good reference point) you will need to tighten the new one in the same position before you insert the ball joint end into the wheel upright. It is very important to tighten control arm bushings in the same position that it will be when the car sits on the ground. If you do not do this the bushing will fail in time.
3) Remove the nut from the bolt that mounts the control arm on the upper suspension tower assembly.
4) Remove the 3 bolts from inside the engine compartment that hold the upper suspension tower assembly.
5) Use a pry bar between lower control arm and chassis to push the upper suspension tower below the guiding pin. It may help to disconnect the sway bar link (especially if you have a stiffer one). If you have good leverage, both wheels in the air and sway bar link disconnected it should be relatively easy to clear the guide. I assume from your previous posts that you have already removed the small locking tab on the guide. The shock and spring assembly have nothing to do with your task. The only thing that is pushing the suspension up is the torsional rigidity of lower and rear upper control arm bushings (considering that sway bar link is removed).
6) Once you have cleared the guide push the upper suspension tower assembly towards the back of the car and remove the bolt from upper front control arm.
7) Replace the control arm, insert the bolt and put the nut on finger tight.
8) Place a floor jack under the suspension and position the upper tower suspension assembly correctly under the guide pin. Jack up the whole suspension back in place
9) Tighten the 3 bolts from inside the engine compartment to secure the suspension assembly.
10) Tighten the upper control arm bushing in the same position as in step 2). At this point the ball joint end should not be inserted into the top of the wheel carrier. If you did not get a chance to measure the rest position of the old control arm you can mount the new one approximately parallel to the ground, slightly lower from the ball joint end (considering that the car is leveled with both front wheels in the air). Make sure the bolt is tight.
11) Insert the ball joint end of the control arm into the top of the wheel carrier. This part is easier said than done. You may have to align the ball joint to match the axis of the hole, push the top of the wheel carrier forward and jack the suspension up, etc. The top rear control arm will try to pull the suspension towards the back. One way or another you will be able to insert the ball joint end into the wheel carrier.
12) Replace the bolt that secures the two upper control arms to the wheel carrier and tighten. You are done!
Good luck, and remember the most important part of the procedure. Control arm bushing needs to be tightened in the same position that it will be when the car sits on the ground (which is close to level).
Sure it will be difficult to insert the ball joint end into the wheel carrier but if you want it done correctly this is the procedure.
#12
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Trying this tomorrow
Thanks for the tip. Ive got one wheel jacked waaay up (was doing CV as well) and the other on the ground. Hmm, should have thought of that
#13
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