plastic clicking?
#4
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#5
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I did get new rims put on and all the nuts are up to torque . And I was looking at my cars tecomended maintanance schedule has 110k miles it says the joints and dust seals etc but they're sealed so I can't grease them do I really have to buy all new components? One of the boots is roughed up so I pumped it full of grease to maintain it for about another month. But other then that one they are inaccessible because they're sealed.
#6
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I did get new rims put on and all the nuts are up to torque . And I was looking at my cars tecomended maintanance schedule has 110k miles it says the joints and dust seals etc but they're sealed so I can't grease them do I really have to buy all new components? One of the boots is roughed up so I pumped it full of grease to maintain it for about another month. But other then that one they are inaccessible because they're sealed.
At 110K miles if you haven't replaced a UCA or two and/or the shocks, you're probably due.
I have over 117K on my 02S6 with OEM shocks and they're serviceable, but I'm thinking of replacing them…the front dives a little too much on braking although it doesn't bounce.
#7
WD-40 test it. Chase the component down with your finger to the touch. Have a friend rock the vehicle, while it's on the ground, from left to right. As it cycles the suspension, hopefully you hear the click. If you can hear the click, lay on the ground, use your hand as a feeler, and identify the component. Once you identify what you think it is, spray a shot of WD-40 into, or around the component, then re-rock the vehicle. listen for an increase, or a decrease in the clicking, or the noise. It sounds ridiculous, but the WD-40 washes off easily, and any remaining residue decompose with time. The clicking on my car came from under the motor mount hood. They were spent.
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One way you can tell is to pop out the pinch bolt and uca balljoint stubs and feel them if they're loose, the UCA needs to be replaced. Sometimes you can pry (watch out for the boot) the uca away from the upright if the lower control arms are on a jack stand with the weight of the car compressing/unloading the spring. If you can pry the uca away from the carrier, the bj is worn/bad. And they will click if they're bad. But pulling the pinch bolt and feeling the bj stub play is probably the best way to determine worn bjs.
At 110K miles if you haven't replaced a UCA or two and/or the shocks, you're probably due.
I have over 117K on my 02S6 with OEM shocks and they're serviceable, but I'm thinking of replacing them the front dives a little too much on braking although it doesn't bounce.
#9
If your looking at "popping out" your pinch bolt, it can lead to mass headaches. I would advise to go all possible routes before delving into the "pinch bolt" as it can become quite an issue when factoring in miles on the fasten, and climate conditions of your particular vehicle. If its an UCA issue, you may be able to isolate it by rocking the wheel from left to right while stationary.
#10
If your looking at "popping out" your pinch bolt, it can lead to mass headaches. I would advise to go all possible routes before delving into the "pinch bolt" as it can become quite an issue when factoring in miles on the fasten, and climate conditions of your particular vehicle. If its an UCA issue, you may be able to isolate it by rocking the wheel from left to right while stationary.