Gsrob

Let me know how that kit works out for you. I'm also in the market. Car has 144k with all original suspension and just put on a set of tires... However, the driver side front tire is wearing abnormally on the outside shoulder. All other tires and tread look completely fine. I'm guessing toe is off from a worn tie rod or control arm. I made a different post earlier for recommendations for kits since I have the common clunking up front and am considering all options. I hope your problem gets sorted out! Good luck!

4Driver4

I don't think the control arm kit is going to do much for you. I still think toe is the issue. "In spec" is OK, but you really want "dead on" with toe.

When you checked the tie rods, did you check the adjustment? That is what is seized. Skip the control arms unless they are bad. Install new tie rods and set toe correctly.

Gsrob

Hey I just had a quick question in response to this thread. I'm not trying to thread jack but your message inbox must be full..

My driver side front tire is abnormally wearing on the outside shoulder at a much, much higher rate than any of the other tires area. Everything else seems to be wearing normally and at acceptable levels. The wear is uniform all the way around the tire as far as I can tell. Also, the middle of the tire and inside shoulder are fine. I've double checked air pressure and everything is a go based on the sticker inside the door, not on the tires.

My car does clunk some in the front end during braking and take-off and uneven road conditions at times. I am guessing a control arm kit would be the way to go since it's got over 140k miles.

I guess in short, does this sound like a toe issue? It's hard to tell since there is so much misinformation out there. I feel like I shouldn't go try to have it aligned if I need to replace several suspension parts anyway and then have it re-aligned.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

It's more likely a camber issue for that one tire although it could be toe.

jseklund

Well, they seemed to act as if the tie rods were fine, and they were in spec so I assume they were adjustable 2 months ago. Other than the Audi dealership that told me my car was going to catch fire because my breather hose was leaking oil, I have never heard they were seized. I didn't see them try to adjust them so I'm not 100% certain. I am replacing them anyway.

The camber is way off, and from what you said earlier, it can only be equalized but beyond that there is no adjustment. The camber is off in a way that I would have originally expected for the wear I am seeing (-1.5% roughly on both sides) and it is roughly equal - so I'm not sure there is any adjustment that could be made to the camber that would work?

My thinking is that the only adjustments that could be made for Camber are shifting the subframe left or right, which will make one tire worse and the other tire better, or the distance of the upper or lower control arms between the frame connections and the knuckle.

My brain came up with a theory (which means it could be fantasy) that if a lower bushing is gone, it could allow the lower arm to wonder a little further from the frame and it wouldn't take much to throw it out of spec. Replacing the lowers on this assumption is a complete wild guess though, so it may be a waste of time and not solve the problem.

On the uppers, I can get adjustable arms, and this will allow me to compensate for up to 1.5% camber. This is great, but could be a Band-Aid if it is the lower control arms that are shot.

My solution, with 265,000 miles, is to replace all the control arms and put in 4 adjustable uppers. This will cost me roughly $600, but the adjustable are roughly $400 anyway.

This way, I will know the lowers are correct and if I still have a problem I can adjust the uppers to compensate...

and the inner and outter tie rods will be replaced also while I do this (part of the $600 kit).

I guess I figure this replaces a lot of old parts and removes 95% of what the problem could be from the equation....

Am I missing something? I would love to save the $600...

mohamedali21

Well I replace all the control arm before about 4 months ago and i was short of one, the right front upper. I purchase it from a local autoparts store, now looking back at it it look like the driver side is really straight while the passenger side that i have problem with has a little curve to it. This is an 2002 A6 2.7t. so maybe it split in that year? I'll check online for the straight one and try it.

mohamedali21

Well I replace all the control arm before about 4 months ago and i was short of one, the right front upper. I purchase it from a local autoparts store, now looking back at it it look like the driver side is really straight while the passenger side that i have problem with has a little curve to it. This is an 2002 A6 2.7t. so maybe it split in that year? I'll check online for the straight one and try it.
this was it before i start changing control arms

mohamedali21

I'm having problems with the right side, the left side is straight

mohamedali21

Guys i found my problem, it was the lower control arm install by my mechanic wrong. it have two holes and the curve lower arm should be in the front one. it was in the rear. Also, I turn that bolt around and insert it from the rear so it'll be easy to remove in the future.

Gsrob

Glad you found your problem. Did the mechanic refund your money/make things right? I would've been really pissed to find that out. Did you fix the problem yourself or take it somewhere else?