deviantirish

It is a used motor from audis4parts.com with 20k less miles on it. I have all the major seals on order from ECS for drive train and main. Also still have all my gates timing kit, serp belt, thermostat, aluminum thermostat housing, upper gasket kit, and all the new tensioners and pulleys that i ordered for my motor. The mounts on my car have been replaced at 115k when the previous owner had the transmission and CV's serviced. The previous owner was actually very meticulous about the car. Only reason I bought it. But Tom Wood Audi covered the broken piece with glue and the cosmetic motor covors. ( I found the crack when I removed the cosmetic intake cover. Made the mistake of not thinking anything of it.)

deviantirish

So does anyone know a good way to split the block and bell housing? I have removed all the bolts/ studs, exhaust, and turbos. It still seems to be stuck together.

Also what is an effective way to clear out the honeycomb in the down pipes?

tester123

You are one of the brave men here. Pulling motor out? maybe when I was 18 or so. Now, not so much. Still, I admire people who take on projects like this.

As far as the honeycomb, drilling, pushing it out with a press? come to mind immediately. Why take them out?

deviantirish

I have a BEL with a Trip transmission. So i figured I would free up a little more air flow out of the exhaust while its all taken apart. I am going to leave the actual cats in since I am straight piping 2.5" from there back just to keep the peace with Johnny Law.

I need to get the transmission apart for the stage 2 torque converter. But they don't want to separate.

4Driver4

If they won't come apart, you missed a bolt or two.

CRuby

My only prior experience hollowing out cats was on a Lexus, & the cats were half-way melted. Yours look much better. I used hammer & cold chisel, & they cleaned out pretty good. If you go that route, I suggest tilting exhaust so that any chips fall out the inlet side, rather than deeper into the exhaust. I think you'll need to modify downstream O2 sensors to avoid tripping a code.

Alpha6-27Tango(jeff)

You bet you can! These are the infamous "Piggy DPs" for the 2.7T. Not sure if those guys are still in business, but you can also do it yourself:

AudiWorld Tech Articles

This was supposedly a major part of "Stage 2+" modifications that unlocks additional power when you increase the boost, I think mainly with the 100 octane race fuel. Sadly, I only had a few opportunities to run the 100 octane program in my car (kind of a waste if I have the rest of the family in the car since I drive pretty slow with the kids). But I can say, it was a kick in the pants. In some of the passing lanes on the curvy highway to the coast, I was pulling into the triple-digits in a just a few seconds.

deviantirish

Thank you for the Information and link. It definitely helps.

I noticed you have a few upgrades on yours and was curious as how well the trip transmission holds up.
I'm not going all out on my car. But am looking to unlock hidden power. The transmission worries me as everyone says they grenade when you start adding hp.
I have APR stage one 93 Octane w/ Stock program, K&N filter, 2.5" Catback, and plan on making the "piggy DP's" today.
I have a RevMaxx stage 2 w/ 600rpm stall Torque Converter coming.
Would that be suffice for what I have?
No real good specifics that I could find for how much the drive train would actually handle.

Alpha6-27Tango(jeff)

My tip has held up really well, but I may have done things a little differently than others. Big things that I did/didn't do that I think contribute to saving wear & tear on the tranny:

1) I never tracked the car. Always wanted to, just never got around to it. I'd imagine that the heat and high fluid pressures at constant wide-open throttle at a track day would equal about a year worth of wear and tear (for the way I drive anyway).

2) Got the fluid & filter changed @ 60K.

3) I used Stage 2 a lot in 2006/2007 (when first I got it), but as time went one I started leaving the car on the stock profile 95+% of the time. Mainly because there's a noticeable difference in gas mileage on Stage 2, and I got married in 2008. Not sure how to describe my wife driving the car on Stage 2, other than just "bad".

She couldn't handle the earlier throttle response of Stage 2, and hence would lurch forward, let off, lurch forward, let off. I put up with that for all of about a week before changing back to the stock program when she used the car.

4) I think this is probably the biggest one - I never shift my auto trans under heavy power (anything greater than 1/2 throttle or so). The shifts are going to be slower doing this, but I think it saves some serious wear and tear.

The idea of letting up on the throttle to allow the trans to shift was nothing new for me. It was something I learned early on in growing up in a house hold of heavy haulers (big trucks hauling boats, campers, etc). I was always taught to let up a little to allow the trans to shift under reduced power. Turns out I later read that nearly all the wear on your automatic trans happens during shifting, so it all made sense to me.

Hopefully that helps. I think just "going easy" on your car with the increased HP helps the most.

deviantirish

I don't actually beat on the car. Just want some play power. I do not plan on tracking it. Maybe a 1/4 mile run once.
I generally leave the car in Stage 1. Gas mileage is the same to me on either. But laying on the throttle is minimal. Usually only during passing. And I don't shift it ever. Sport mode a twice. I like the car and enjoy just driving it more than racing it.