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- Audi A6 C5 How to Repair Door Contact Sensor<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
Door contact sensor repair - Updated with pics.
07-17-2004, 06:28 AM
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Door contact sensor repair - Updated with pics.
Okey, updated this with pics!
After a 1 hour disassembly, 4 hour understanding, 1 hour fixing, 2 hour assembly, the door contact sensor is repaired. You probably would use 2-3 hours using this explenation. I did it on another car later, and used 2 hours (the full fix).
I've seen alot of posts regarding this problem, so it seems like a quite common problem. I'm posting my repair notes since this ain't covered in any manuals I've read (I'm a Bentley Pub customer). A new latch is quite expensive, and quite irritating when not working, so I decided to find out and fix whats wrong.
My Car : 1999 A6 Quattro 2.4 litre europeian ver.
The problem is not the sensor itself, either the mechanism that triggers the sensor. It's the contact between the circuit board and the plastic connector, oh well, in my case. The circuit board also contained alot of corrosion. The core problem is that the electrical box is not 100% water proof - and damp will find its way into the box.
There is an quick fix for this, if your ONLY problem is the door contact sensor, and not anything else (central locking etc..)
Here goes the full fix :
---------------------------------------
You'll need :
- a torx set (10, 20 and 45)
- M8 bit (for the latch - do not use a torx here!)
- Soilder equipment
- fluke or equiv.
- CRC electric cleaners (or equiv).
- (optional : some calming medicine when you try to reattach springs :-) )..
Difficulty :
- Medium
Pre-req :
- Time
- Understandig of basic electrics, and ability to soilder. Your problem might not be exactly where mine was, but you should find out..
Started out by removing trim, and hoped to remove the latch without removing the window mount. It's says so in the bentley, but it was too tight. Removed window mount, and it was easier to flip off the connector, key rod and lock rod.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/door1.jpg">
The blue rings shows two M8 screws that actually holds the latch. Flip off the plastic that hold the lock rod. Pull that rod off. Then the key rod. You'll have to wiggle that out (pull a bit down and turn clockwise, it just holds by the rods length).
The red-ring on the right site has two pop-off connectors, the left side has one pop-off that has a screw (that you'll have to remove first).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/door2.jpg">
I took of the windowmount, just because I got more room. Remember how it was mounted.. Would be easier to remount. The prev pic showed 4 green rings. Torx 45. When remounting, you should fasten the upper two before the torx on the bottom (work right to left)
Took off the latch, and went to the workbench. Started with the sensor, a bit greasy on the outside, but opening it up, it worked perfectly. No corrosion - clean metal. Measured with diode settings on a fluke.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/sensor1.jpg">
First I tried just to clean it.. thought is WAS the sensor..
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/sensor2.jpg">
The red ring shows the metallic clamp that holds the sensor to the latch. Just flips off.
Then checked the latch mechanism that activates the sensor - checked also out OK.
Then I had to open the box. It's actually two parts. One with the mechanism that locks the door in place, and one electrical part with the small electric engines that drives the locking system.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/treeparts.jpg">
This was a tricky job, first off I saw 2 springs connecting the locking mechanism. Split the two parts (2 torx-20 + 1 torx-10 and two plastic locks) and open the box containing the circuit board (6-7 torx-10).
OPEN THE BOX CAREFULLY.. This box contains a lot of loose parts, and if you open it the wrong way, they all fall out of their respective places. You'll then have to play the game of "What did the engineer think". I did the wrong way, and played that game..
(See below under assembly).
I've got an old "low voltage" degree, and I'm amazed that this thing still had some functions that worked.. Corrosion on the circuit board, in almost every line. Well, after some troubleshooting, all the lines checked out OK, but the 10-pin connector to the circuit board. Line 3 and 5 were corroded off. Missing 2 cm from circuit board to the plastic connector (!).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/circuitboard1.jpg">
Here's the circuitboard. The rings shows where most of the corrosion where. On the thin electric lines and down by the connector (on the other side - se pic below).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/corrosion.jpg">
Ugh.. bad pic, but you see the corrosion. When the latch is installed, this is the absolute bottom of the box - and when the box is not tight, water/damp concentrates here..
Rewire those two missing lines with some 0,25 wire. Since I didn't trust the remaining lines connector, I've soldered new lines from the circuit board and made my own connector. Made a new hole in the box and used silicone to keep the damp out.
You can do two things her, either soilder a complete new connector system, or just soilder those lines that were broken. If you to the latter, you'll also have to make holes in the box (as mentioned).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/soldering1.jpg">
I soildered from the upside of the board.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/gear.jpg">
The orange ring around plastic arm has to be refittet when the circuit board is in place. The "arm" of this, will touch the microswitches on the downside - left of the circuit board. The microswith I'm talking about is about where the green ring is, when you've reattached the circuit board.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/plasticarm.jpg">
I used 1 hour to figure this out!! ;-) Didn't remember where that plastic thing has it's place..
The reassembly of the box might require valium.. Check out that all the motors, gears and plastic rods are functioning before closing the electrical box. Push and pull the rods and see to it that the gears and motor are rotating. The grey motor drives the mechanism that locks the other motor.
The reassembly of the two main parts where probably the worst. The springs that actually lock the door where a bit of a pain. Here I've took some pics of which metod I found out to be easiest.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly1.jpg">
The four parts left after you've put the two main parts together (all the torx)
You'll then have 4 remaining parts - 2 springs, one plastic and one metal arm. (and one screw of course).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly2.jpg">
Get the metal arm in the hole you can bearly see within the box (use a flashlight if you can't see it). Its a horseshoe that it will fit into. It's a PITA to see in there, but you'll find out with the right lighting.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly3.jpg">
You'll have to wiggle a abit to get this arm right, and I had to set the torx screw just inside, so I could pull out the white rod that the metallic/plastic arms are connected to. You'll figure it out! Don't screw tight before you see that the white rod are lined up with the white arm.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly4.jpg">
Then it should look like this. Attach the two springs. The biggest will fit at the upper arrow. The lower spring fits within the hole at the lower arrow and and in the only little hole in the box (you'll see it).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/finished.jpg">
You're done! Here you'll see where the springs are connected.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/wires.jpg">
Reattach the latch and hot-wire the new connectors you made into the wires from the car. For my experience, I had to make new connectors for line 4 and 6.
At last the car warns me that the light is on when I try to exit the car. No more flat battery! ;-)
For a workshop I understand why they replace the whole latch.. You'll need the original connector parts to repair this the right way, and the labor will cost more that replacing the part.
The Quick Fix :
--------------------------------------------
You will only need to remove the trim for this. (two screws on the left and right side, high up). Slide the trim upward and disconnect all the connectors and the wire (for opening the door)
As mentioned, if your only error is the door contact sensor, you can override the error by connecting the blue wire from the sensor (under the latch) to line 4 on the wireset (from the car). Make a hole in wire 4 (on my car : yellow/light green color) measure it with a fluke to pin 8 on the latch/connector. I use the diode setting on the fluke, so it beeps when there are connection.
If this works, you can do this fix! Just cut off the blue sensor wire and soilder it to wire 4 (there are numbers on the connector). See the previous picture. If the connector is connected to the latch, you'll see lights in the car! YEAH!
GOOD LUCK!
Thanks goes to fast928 in the forum over at Bentley Pub.
Cheers,
K of Norway ;-)
--
Kjetil Laasby
Kjetil(AT)Laasby.Com
After a 1 hour disassembly, 4 hour understanding, 1 hour fixing, 2 hour assembly, the door contact sensor is repaired. You probably would use 2-3 hours using this explenation. I did it on another car later, and used 2 hours (the full fix).
I've seen alot of posts regarding this problem, so it seems like a quite common problem. I'm posting my repair notes since this ain't covered in any manuals I've read (I'm a Bentley Pub customer). A new latch is quite expensive, and quite irritating when not working, so I decided to find out and fix whats wrong.
My Car : 1999 A6 Quattro 2.4 litre europeian ver.
The problem is not the sensor itself, either the mechanism that triggers the sensor. It's the contact between the circuit board and the plastic connector, oh well, in my case. The circuit board also contained alot of corrosion. The core problem is that the electrical box is not 100% water proof - and damp will find its way into the box.
There is an quick fix for this, if your ONLY problem is the door contact sensor, and not anything else (central locking etc..)
Here goes the full fix :
---------------------------------------
You'll need :
- a torx set (10, 20 and 45)
- M8 bit (for the latch - do not use a torx here!)
- Soilder equipment
- fluke or equiv.
- CRC electric cleaners (or equiv).
- (optional : some calming medicine when you try to reattach springs :-) )..
Difficulty :
- Medium
Pre-req :
- Time
- Understandig of basic electrics, and ability to soilder. Your problem might not be exactly where mine was, but you should find out..
Started out by removing trim, and hoped to remove the latch without removing the window mount. It's says so in the bentley, but it was too tight. Removed window mount, and it was easier to flip off the connector, key rod and lock rod.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/door1.jpg">
The blue rings shows two M8 screws that actually holds the latch. Flip off the plastic that hold the lock rod. Pull that rod off. Then the key rod. You'll have to wiggle that out (pull a bit down and turn clockwise, it just holds by the rods length).
The red-ring on the right site has two pop-off connectors, the left side has one pop-off that has a screw (that you'll have to remove first).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/door2.jpg">
I took of the windowmount, just because I got more room. Remember how it was mounted.. Would be easier to remount. The prev pic showed 4 green rings. Torx 45. When remounting, you should fasten the upper two before the torx on the bottom (work right to left)
Took off the latch, and went to the workbench. Started with the sensor, a bit greasy on the outside, but opening it up, it worked perfectly. No corrosion - clean metal. Measured with diode settings on a fluke.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/sensor1.jpg">
First I tried just to clean it.. thought is WAS the sensor..
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/sensor2.jpg">
The red ring shows the metallic clamp that holds the sensor to the latch. Just flips off.
Then checked the latch mechanism that activates the sensor - checked also out OK.
Then I had to open the box. It's actually two parts. One with the mechanism that locks the door in place, and one electrical part with the small electric engines that drives the locking system.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/treeparts.jpg">
This was a tricky job, first off I saw 2 springs connecting the locking mechanism. Split the two parts (2 torx-20 + 1 torx-10 and two plastic locks) and open the box containing the circuit board (6-7 torx-10).
OPEN THE BOX CAREFULLY.. This box contains a lot of loose parts, and if you open it the wrong way, they all fall out of their respective places. You'll then have to play the game of "What did the engineer think". I did the wrong way, and played that game..
(See below under assembly).
I've got an old "low voltage" degree, and I'm amazed that this thing still had some functions that worked.. Corrosion on the circuit board, in almost every line. Well, after some troubleshooting, all the lines checked out OK, but the 10-pin connector to the circuit board. Line 3 and 5 were corroded off. Missing 2 cm from circuit board to the plastic connector (!).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/circuitboard1.jpg">
Here's the circuitboard. The rings shows where most of the corrosion where. On the thin electric lines and down by the connector (on the other side - se pic below).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/corrosion.jpg">
Ugh.. bad pic, but you see the corrosion. When the latch is installed, this is the absolute bottom of the box - and when the box is not tight, water/damp concentrates here..
Rewire those two missing lines with some 0,25 wire. Since I didn't trust the remaining lines connector, I've soldered new lines from the circuit board and made my own connector. Made a new hole in the box and used silicone to keep the damp out.
You can do two things her, either soilder a complete new connector system, or just soilder those lines that were broken. If you to the latter, you'll also have to make holes in the box (as mentioned).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/soldering1.jpg">
I soildered from the upside of the board.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/gear.jpg">
The orange ring around plastic arm has to be refittet when the circuit board is in place. The "arm" of this, will touch the microswitches on the downside - left of the circuit board. The microswith I'm talking about is about where the green ring is, when you've reattached the circuit board.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/plasticarm.jpg">
I used 1 hour to figure this out!! ;-) Didn't remember where that plastic thing has it's place..
The reassembly of the box might require valium.. Check out that all the motors, gears and plastic rods are functioning before closing the electrical box. Push and pull the rods and see to it that the gears and motor are rotating. The grey motor drives the mechanism that locks the other motor.
The reassembly of the two main parts where probably the worst. The springs that actually lock the door where a bit of a pain. Here I've took some pics of which metod I found out to be easiest.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly1.jpg">
The four parts left after you've put the two main parts together (all the torx)
You'll then have 4 remaining parts - 2 springs, one plastic and one metal arm. (and one screw of course).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly2.jpg">
Get the metal arm in the hole you can bearly see within the box (use a flashlight if you can't see it). Its a horseshoe that it will fit into. It's a PITA to see in there, but you'll find out with the right lighting.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly3.jpg">
You'll have to wiggle a abit to get this arm right, and I had to set the torx screw just inside, so I could pull out the white rod that the metallic/plastic arms are connected to. You'll figure it out! Don't screw tight before you see that the white rod are lined up with the white arm.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly4.jpg">
Then it should look like this. Attach the two springs. The biggest will fit at the upper arrow. The lower spring fits within the hole at the lower arrow and and in the only little hole in the box (you'll see it).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/finished.jpg">
You're done! Here you'll see where the springs are connected.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/wires.jpg">
Reattach the latch and hot-wire the new connectors you made into the wires from the car. For my experience, I had to make new connectors for line 4 and 6.
At last the car warns me that the light is on when I try to exit the car. No more flat battery! ;-)
For a workshop I understand why they replace the whole latch.. You'll need the original connector parts to repair this the right way, and the labor will cost more that replacing the part.
The Quick Fix :
--------------------------------------------
You will only need to remove the trim for this. (two screws on the left and right side, high up). Slide the trim upward and disconnect all the connectors and the wire (for opening the door)
As mentioned, if your only error is the door contact sensor, you can override the error by connecting the blue wire from the sensor (under the latch) to line 4 on the wireset (from the car). Make a hole in wire 4 (on my car : yellow/light green color) measure it with a fluke to pin 8 on the latch/connector. I use the diode setting on the fluke, so it beeps when there are connection.
If this works, you can do this fix! Just cut off the blue sensor wire and soilder it to wire 4 (there are numbers on the connector). See the previous picture. If the connector is connected to the latch, you'll see lights in the car! YEAH!
GOOD LUCK!
Thanks goes to fast928 in the forum over at Bentley Pub.
Cheers,
K of Norway ;-)
--
Kjetil Laasby
Kjetil(AT)Laasby.Com
07-18-2004, 05:39 AM
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Thanks for the feedback! I've updated the article since there exists quickfix for this!
Hope that will encurage more people to do this. The quickfix will only take 15-20 mins - if applicable. Try it before you open the latch.
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11-12-2005, 01:59 PM
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Re: Door contact sensor repair - Updated with pics.
Great job explaining the latch repair job. I did it yesterday on my 1999 A6 Quattro (put in a new latch), but in the process had the detour of breaking the key-lock cylinder flange. It seems that removing the latch broke the flange on the back side of the cylinder. The safer process is to remove the door handle and lock from the outside prior to taking out the latch...very little room to remove the latch with the key-cylinder flange.
Anyway, I am hanging on by a bandaged flange barely held on with a clip I found in my garage. All I need is the flange on the very back of the key cylinder, and a new horse-shoe clip to fasten it.
Audi wants to sell me a new key cylinder with a unique key for the door lock that can't be re-keyed to match my existing key. They claim the laser cut keys/key-cylinders are not able to be rekeyed.
Any thoughts on key-cylinder repair? I have a 1991 90Q, and that key cylinder was easy to rekey and replace.
Thanks in advance,
Dan Berberick
berbericks@msn.com
Anyway, I am hanging on by a bandaged flange barely held on with a clip I found in my garage. All I need is the flange on the very back of the key cylinder, and a new horse-shoe clip to fasten it.
Audi wants to sell me a new key cylinder with a unique key for the door lock that can't be re-keyed to match my existing key. They claim the laser cut keys/key-cylinders are not able to be rekeyed.
Any thoughts on key-cylinder repair? I have a 1991 90Q, and that key cylinder was easy to rekey and replace.
Thanks in advance,
Dan Berberick
berbericks@msn.com
05-08-2013, 08:52 AM
#9
AudiWorld Junior Member
Just to be 100% sure, once I clip the blue sensor wire, which side do I solder to the #4 wire? Do I want it to still go thru the switch (I wouldn't think so), or back to the latch assembly?
I know it seems obvious, but just want to make sure I don't mess things up...
I know it seems obvious, but just want to make sure I don't mess things up...
Okey, updated this with pics!
After a 1 hour disassembly, 4 hour understanding, 1 hour fixing, 2 hour assembly, the door contact sensor is repaired. You probably would use 2-3 hours using this explenation. I did it on another car later, and used 2 hours (the full fix).
I've seen alot of posts regarding this problem, so it seems like a quite common problem. I'm posting my repair notes since this ain't covered in any manuals I've read (I'm a Bentley Pub customer). A new latch is quite expensive, and quite irritating when not working, so I decided to find out and fix whats wrong.
My Car : 1999 A6 Quattro 2.4 litre europeian ver.
The problem is not the sensor itself, either the mechanism that triggers the sensor. It's the contact between the circuit board and the plastic connector, oh well, in my case. The circuit board also contained alot of corrosion. The core problem is that the electrical box is not 100% water proof - and damp will find its way into the box.
There is an quick fix for this, if your ONLY problem is the door contact sensor, and not anything else (central locking etc..)
Here goes the full fix :
---------------------------------------
You'll need :
- a torx set (10, 20 and 45)
- M8 bit (for the latch - do not use a torx here!)
- Soilder equipment
- fluke or equiv.
- CRC electric cleaners (or equiv).
- (optional : some calming medicine when you try to reattach springs :-) )..
Difficulty :
- Medium
Pre-req :
- Time
- Understandig of basic electrics, and ability to soilder. Your problem might not be exactly where mine was, but you should find out..
Started out by removing trim, and hoped to remove the latch without removing the window mount. It's says so in the bentley, but it was too tight. Removed window mount, and it was easier to flip off the connector, key rod and lock rod.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/door1.jpg">
The blue rings shows two M8 screws that actually holds the latch. Flip off the plastic that hold the lock rod. Pull that rod off. Then the key rod. You'll have to wiggle that out (pull a bit down and turn clockwise, it just holds by the rods length).
The red-ring on the right site has two pop-off connectors, the left side has one pop-off that has a screw (that you'll have to remove first).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/door2.jpg">
I took of the windowmount, just because I got more room. Remember how it was mounted.. Would be easier to remount. The prev pic showed 4 green rings. Torx 45. When remounting, you should fasten the upper two before the torx on the bottom (work right to left)
Took off the latch, and went to the workbench. Started with the sensor, a bit greasy on the outside, but opening it up, it worked perfectly. No corrosion - clean metal. Measured with diode settings on a fluke.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/sensor1.jpg">
First I tried just to clean it.. thought is WAS the sensor..
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/sensor2.jpg">
The red ring shows the metallic clamp that holds the sensor to the latch. Just flips off.
Then checked the latch mechanism that activates the sensor - checked also out OK.
Then I had to open the box. It's actually two parts. One with the mechanism that locks the door in place, and one electrical part with the small electric engines that drives the locking system.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/treeparts.jpg">
This was a tricky job, first off I saw 2 springs connecting the locking mechanism. Split the two parts (2 torx-20 + 1 torx-10 and two plastic locks) and open the box containing the circuit board (6-7 torx-10).
OPEN THE BOX CAREFULLY.. This box contains a lot of loose parts, and if you open it the wrong way, they all fall out of their respective places. You'll then have to play the game of "What did the engineer think". I did the wrong way, and played that game..
(See below under assembly).
I've got an old "low voltage" degree, and I'm amazed that this thing still had some functions that worked.. Corrosion on the circuit board, in almost every line. Well, after some troubleshooting, all the lines checked out OK, but the 10-pin connector to the circuit board. Line 3 and 5 were corroded off. Missing 2 cm from circuit board to the plastic connector (!).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/circuitboard1.jpg">
Here's the circuitboard. The rings shows where most of the corrosion where. On the thin electric lines and down by the connector (on the other side - se pic below).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/corrosion.jpg">
Ugh.. bad pic, but you see the corrosion. When the latch is installed, this is the absolute bottom of the box - and when the box is not tight, water/damp concentrates here..
Rewire those two missing lines with some 0,25 wire. Since I didn't trust the remaining lines connector, I've soldered new lines from the circuit board and made my own connector. Made a new hole in the box and used silicone to keep the damp out.
You can do two things her, either soilder a complete new connector system, or just soilder those lines that were broken. If you to the latter, you'll also have to make holes in the box (as mentioned).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/soldering1.jpg">
I soildered from the upside of the board.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/gear.jpg">
The orange ring around plastic arm has to be refittet when the circuit board is in place. The "arm" of this, will touch the microswitches on the downside - left of the circuit board. The microswith I'm talking about is about where the green ring is, when you've reattached the circuit board.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/plasticarm.jpg">
I used 1 hour to figure this out!! ;-) Didn't remember where that plastic thing has it's place..
The reassembly of the box might require valium.. Check out that all the motors, gears and plastic rods are functioning before closing the electrical box. Push and pull the rods and see to it that the gears and motor are rotating. The grey motor drives the mechanism that locks the other motor.
The reassembly of the two main parts where probably the worst. The springs that actually lock the door where a bit of a pain. Here I've took some pics of which metod I found out to be easiest.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly1.jpg">
The four parts left after you've put the two main parts together (all the torx)
You'll then have 4 remaining parts - 2 springs, one plastic and one metal arm. (and one screw of course).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly2.jpg">
Get the metal arm in the hole you can bearly see within the box (use a flashlight if you can't see it). Its a horseshoe that it will fit into. It's a PITA to see in there, but you'll find out with the right lighting.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly3.jpg">
You'll have to wiggle a abit to get this arm right, and I had to set the torx screw just inside, so I could pull out the white rod that the metallic/plastic arms are connected to. You'll figure it out! Don't screw tight before you see that the white rod are lined up with the white arm.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly4.jpg">
Then it should look like this. Attach the two springs. The biggest will fit at the upper arrow. The lower spring fits within the hole at the lower arrow and and in the only little hole in the box (you'll see it).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/finished.jpg">
You're done! Here you'll see where the springs are connected.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/wires.jpg">
Reattach the latch and hot-wire the new connectors you made into the wires from the car. For my experience, I had to make new connectors for line 4 and 6.
At last the car warns me that the light is on when I try to exit the car. No more flat battery! ;-)
For a workshop I understand why they replace the whole latch.. You'll need the original connector parts to repair this the right way, and the labor will cost more that replacing the part.
The Quick Fix :
--------------------------------------------
You will only need to remove the trim for this. (two screws on the left and right side, high up). Slide the trim upward and disconnect all the connectors and the wire (for opening the door)
As mentioned, if your only error is the door contact sensor, you can override the error by connecting the blue wire from the sensor (under the latch) to line 4 on the wireset (from the car). Make a hole in wire 4 (on my car : yellow/light green color) measure it with a fluke to pin 8 on the latch/connector. I use the diode setting on the fluke, so it beeps when there are connection.
If this works, you can do this fix! Just cut off the blue sensor wire and soilder it to wire 4 (there are numbers on the connector). See the previous picture. If the connector is connected to the latch, you'll see lights in the car! YEAH!
GOOD LUCK!
Thanks goes to fast928 in the forum over at Bentley Pub.
Cheers,
K of Norway ;-)
--
Kjetil Laasby
Kjetil(AT)Laasby.Com
After a 1 hour disassembly, 4 hour understanding, 1 hour fixing, 2 hour assembly, the door contact sensor is repaired. You probably would use 2-3 hours using this explenation. I did it on another car later, and used 2 hours (the full fix).
I've seen alot of posts regarding this problem, so it seems like a quite common problem. I'm posting my repair notes since this ain't covered in any manuals I've read (I'm a Bentley Pub customer). A new latch is quite expensive, and quite irritating when not working, so I decided to find out and fix whats wrong.
My Car : 1999 A6 Quattro 2.4 litre europeian ver.
The problem is not the sensor itself, either the mechanism that triggers the sensor. It's the contact between the circuit board and the plastic connector, oh well, in my case. The circuit board also contained alot of corrosion. The core problem is that the electrical box is not 100% water proof - and damp will find its way into the box.
There is an quick fix for this, if your ONLY problem is the door contact sensor, and not anything else (central locking etc..)
Here goes the full fix :
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You'll need :
- a torx set (10, 20 and 45)
- M8 bit (for the latch - do not use a torx here!)
- Soilder equipment
- fluke or equiv.
- CRC electric cleaners (or equiv).
- (optional : some calming medicine when you try to reattach springs :-) )..
Difficulty :
- Medium
Pre-req :
- Time
- Understandig of basic electrics, and ability to soilder. Your problem might not be exactly where mine was, but you should find out..
Started out by removing trim, and hoped to remove the latch without removing the window mount. It's says so in the bentley, but it was too tight. Removed window mount, and it was easier to flip off the connector, key rod and lock rod.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/door1.jpg">
The blue rings shows two M8 screws that actually holds the latch. Flip off the plastic that hold the lock rod. Pull that rod off. Then the key rod. You'll have to wiggle that out (pull a bit down and turn clockwise, it just holds by the rods length).
The red-ring on the right site has two pop-off connectors, the left side has one pop-off that has a screw (that you'll have to remove first).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/door2.jpg">
I took of the windowmount, just because I got more room. Remember how it was mounted.. Would be easier to remount. The prev pic showed 4 green rings. Torx 45. When remounting, you should fasten the upper two before the torx on the bottom (work right to left)
Took off the latch, and went to the workbench. Started with the sensor, a bit greasy on the outside, but opening it up, it worked perfectly. No corrosion - clean metal. Measured with diode settings on a fluke.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/sensor1.jpg">
First I tried just to clean it.. thought is WAS the sensor..
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/sensor2.jpg">
The red ring shows the metallic clamp that holds the sensor to the latch. Just flips off.
Then checked the latch mechanism that activates the sensor - checked also out OK.
Then I had to open the box. It's actually two parts. One with the mechanism that locks the door in place, and one electrical part with the small electric engines that drives the locking system.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/treeparts.jpg">
This was a tricky job, first off I saw 2 springs connecting the locking mechanism. Split the two parts (2 torx-20 + 1 torx-10 and two plastic locks) and open the box containing the circuit board (6-7 torx-10).
OPEN THE BOX CAREFULLY.. This box contains a lot of loose parts, and if you open it the wrong way, they all fall out of their respective places. You'll then have to play the game of "What did the engineer think". I did the wrong way, and played that game..
(See below under assembly).
I've got an old "low voltage" degree, and I'm amazed that this thing still had some functions that worked.. Corrosion on the circuit board, in almost every line. Well, after some troubleshooting, all the lines checked out OK, but the 10-pin connector to the circuit board. Line 3 and 5 were corroded off. Missing 2 cm from circuit board to the plastic connector (!).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/circuitboard1.jpg">
Here's the circuitboard. The rings shows where most of the corrosion where. On the thin electric lines and down by the connector (on the other side - se pic below).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/corrosion.jpg">
Ugh.. bad pic, but you see the corrosion. When the latch is installed, this is the absolute bottom of the box - and when the box is not tight, water/damp concentrates here..
Rewire those two missing lines with some 0,25 wire. Since I didn't trust the remaining lines connector, I've soldered new lines from the circuit board and made my own connector. Made a new hole in the box and used silicone to keep the damp out.
You can do two things her, either soilder a complete new connector system, or just soilder those lines that were broken. If you to the latter, you'll also have to make holes in the box (as mentioned).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/soldering1.jpg">
I soildered from the upside of the board.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/gear.jpg">
The orange ring around plastic arm has to be refittet when the circuit board is in place. The "arm" of this, will touch the microswitches on the downside - left of the circuit board. The microswith I'm talking about is about where the green ring is, when you've reattached the circuit board.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/plasticarm.jpg">
I used 1 hour to figure this out!! ;-) Didn't remember where that plastic thing has it's place..
The reassembly of the box might require valium.. Check out that all the motors, gears and plastic rods are functioning before closing the electrical box. Push and pull the rods and see to it that the gears and motor are rotating. The grey motor drives the mechanism that locks the other motor.
The reassembly of the two main parts where probably the worst. The springs that actually lock the door where a bit of a pain. Here I've took some pics of which metod I found out to be easiest.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly1.jpg">
The four parts left after you've put the two main parts together (all the torx)
You'll then have 4 remaining parts - 2 springs, one plastic and one metal arm. (and one screw of course).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly2.jpg">
Get the metal arm in the hole you can bearly see within the box (use a flashlight if you can't see it). Its a horseshoe that it will fit into. It's a PITA to see in there, but you'll find out with the right lighting.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly3.jpg">
You'll have to wiggle a abit to get this arm right, and I had to set the torx screw just inside, so I could pull out the white rod that the metallic/plastic arms are connected to. You'll figure it out! Don't screw tight before you see that the white rod are lined up with the white arm.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/assembly4.jpg">
Then it should look like this. Attach the two springs. The biggest will fit at the upper arrow. The lower spring fits within the hole at the lower arrow and and in the only little hole in the box (you'll see it).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/finished.jpg">
You're done! Here you'll see where the springs are connected.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46410/wires.jpg">
Reattach the latch and hot-wire the new connectors you made into the wires from the car. For my experience, I had to make new connectors for line 4 and 6.
At last the car warns me that the light is on when I try to exit the car. No more flat battery! ;-)
For a workshop I understand why they replace the whole latch.. You'll need the original connector parts to repair this the right way, and the labor will cost more that replacing the part.
The Quick Fix :
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You will only need to remove the trim for this. (two screws on the left and right side, high up). Slide the trim upward and disconnect all the connectors and the wire (for opening the door)
As mentioned, if your only error is the door contact sensor, you can override the error by connecting the blue wire from the sensor (under the latch) to line 4 on the wireset (from the car). Make a hole in wire 4 (on my car : yellow/light green color) measure it with a fluke to pin 8 on the latch/connector. I use the diode setting on the fluke, so it beeps when there are connection.
If this works, you can do this fix! Just cut off the blue sensor wire and soilder it to wire 4 (there are numbers on the connector). See the previous picture. If the connector is connected to the latch, you'll see lights in the car! YEAH!
GOOD LUCK!
Thanks goes to fast928 in the forum over at Bentley Pub.
Cheers,
K of Norway ;-)
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Kjetil Laasby
Kjetil(AT)Laasby.Com
