Dad's 2.8 a6 is smoking
03-21-2009, 12:52 PM
#11
Are you using threaded view? Even this response is out of sequence. The content clearly indicates that you were replying to me, but the threaded view shows that your replied to your own root post. Take a look at threaded view and see if it works for you.
03-21-2009, 01:23 PM
#12
Ah i changed it to threaded, am i doing it right now? lol
if so you think you could tell me what else we should have changed while the mechanic is in there.
thanks for all your help
if so you think you could tell me what else we should have changed while the mechanic is in there.
thanks for all your help
03-21-2009, 01:32 PM
#13
FTW. Nice. The valve cover gaskets will have to be changed, but the only other thing that pops to mind it the cam plug on the back of that head located right next to the cam adjuster seal. It's cheap too.
03-21-2009, 01:40 PM
#14
ok so i should say cam adjuster seal on drivers side and passenger side
do the valve cover gasket
cam plug next to the adjuster seal on the back of the head
and that should do.
thank you so much man, much appreciated.
do the valve cover gasket
cam plug next to the adjuster seal on the back of the head
and that should do.
thank you so much man, much appreciated.
03-21-2009, 01:47 PM
#15
Well, I might not go that far. Unfortunately, there isn't any real labor overlap with passenger (bank1) and driver (bank2) cam adjuster seals.
The driver's side is probably leaking, but the leak isn't as visible because the bank2 seal is at the front of the head near the belts instead of at the rear like bank1. This means that a bank1 leak drips on the cat and smells and smokes, while a bank2 leak gets hung up in all the timing belt guards and stuff.
Unless your tech gives you a break on doing both at the same time, it might be better to do just the bank1 one seal now and then redo both sides at the next timing belt service...unless, of course, the belt was done recently. Then I'd do both.
The driver's side is probably leaking, but the leak isn't as visible because the bank2 seal is at the front of the head near the belts instead of at the rear like bank1. This means that a bank1 leak drips on the cat and smells and smokes, while a bank2 leak gets hung up in all the timing belt guards and stuff.
Unless your tech gives you a break on doing both at the same time, it might be better to do just the bank1 one seal now and then redo both sides at the next timing belt service...unless, of course, the belt was done recently. Then I'd do both.
03-21-2009, 03:05 PM
#17
Not if they were not requested as part of the job. Some shops won't even do cam seals as part of the service, never mind cam adjuster seals and plugs.
In your case, do the Bank2 seal too.
In your case, do the Bank2 seal too.
03-21-2009, 04:19 PM
#18
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2nd, check the parts list for the past job or speak with whomever did it.
If they changed those seals I'd suggest trying the cam PLUGS first. They're cheap and easy to do without opening up the heads, look in the 30V engine forum for how to do this. I did a full timing belt job and all gaskets but left the cam plugs alone last summer. The car still smoked until I spent a half hour or so (20 mins I think) to change the cam plugs and now everything's dry and smoke free.
If they changed those seals I'd suggest trying the cam PLUGS first. They're cheap and easy to do without opening up the heads, look in the 30V engine forum for how to do this. I did a full timing belt job and all gaskets but left the cam plugs alone last summer. The car still smoked until I spent a half hour or so (20 mins I think) to change the cam plugs and now everything's dry and smoke free.
03-21-2009, 04:54 PM
#19
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