Just Me

I'm not saying that's the answer, but easy. Anything that allows for more rapid vibration causes more wear. Out of balance wheels and tires do the same thing.

Grant

jseklund

So, I have all the control arms off of my car now - how do you ensure you torque at "neutral" ride height? Just jack the hub with a floor jack until it looks right? What is the procedure? Thanks for the help!

Gsrob

*NOTE 3: To ensure a long life for these control arms, when they are installed, it is IMPERATIVE that the suspension be compressed to static ride height before any suspension pivot bushings are tightened. If this is not done, bushings will tear as the twisting forces on them will be much higher than is intended. If you have any questions about this, please contact us to verify, if this is not done any warranty will be voided.

From 034 Motorsports website....

SloopJohnB@mac.com

When you take the top bracket out with the UCAs attached, you measure the drop through one of the holes (or the angle of the UCAs) and duplicate that drop or angle when you bolt in the new uca(s).
If you change the ride height you change the neutral angle appropriately.
There's actually a picture in the Bentley on the proper angle as measured by the drop through the hole.

Huskerbob

Yes. Sort of.

When I replaced mine I measured from the center of the wheel hub to the bottom of the wheel well at normal ride height.
I then placed the front end on jack stands and proceeded to remove the various suspension components. I pulled the shock/spring assembly as a unit w/UCAs attached.

I replaced the upper control arms on the bench and got them approximate by doing one at time and installing the new one as close to the old one as possible.

Once that was done I re-installed all the components and got them snugged up. Then I jacked the hubs up to the dimension I had measured previously and torqued all the fasteners to spec.

Once the vehicle was back on the ground I checked as many of the fasteners as possible with the wheels on.

Not sure that this method is by the book but it was the way I could skin the cat at least.

Just Me

Put the full weight of the corner on the hub or lower control arm at or near its end. That's neutral ride height.

My method was to lower the car (using a lift) onto 4 jack-stands positioned below the hubs.

Have inner bushings loose. Tighten to spec, or guttentite.

Grant

OGBULLYLOCDAWG

I torqued everything down with the strut/shock assembly out. I left the upper bracket in place with the upper control arms.

That allowed let me jack the hub and control arms up to the measured ride height(fender to center of axle bolt when the car is on the ground) without lifting the car off the jackstands.


Then I snuck the assembly back in place.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

I set the UCA angle this way:

When the upper shock mount bracket is removed, you can also check the original A dimension. If it's less than A use the lesser dimension.

You can also measure this dimension on the car when the suspension is loaded…it should be the neutral position of the UCAs.

Airbag

for torqing at neutral ..

drive over a pit is ideal .. or a four poster lift with the car sitting on its suspension.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Never was able to get a torque wrench much less an angle tighten gauge in there.