4Driver4

As long as the link count between the two marks is the same as when you started, you are good. There are many different ways to count it out.

This is an old picture commonly used here:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2822284

jseklund

Sorry I wasn't around for this - I am in agreement on the pads - I think you spent a lot of time removing cams when you didn't need to unless there were signs of damage. I've actually noticed that moving the cams is often when you damage the pads - they rotate as they are coming out, hit the pad, and then you pull up or put force and it snaps the pad. You did the A+ student job though and learned more about how it all goes together.

As long as the link count is right, and the locking bar is on, you are good to go. The cam adjuster will do the rest once it pumps up.

Airbag

OP Im not sure what you are asking ... but as pointed out earlier the only important things are the number of links .. and the timing belt tool set up . The hydraulic tensioner will move those timing marks on the arrow anyway as more oil pressure is applied to them the chain is pushed out and the timing marks move ... if your chain is where it was before on the correct points of the cam sprocket, you should be fine..

edit .. oops didnt see the entries after the question .. all has been answered.

acarney

So upon closer inspection it looks like the plastic like "half moon" shaped thing that the cam adjuster pushes down on has two groves right under the chain. I wasn't sure if those groves SHOULD be there or if they were caused by the chain rubbing. The plastic thing looks good otherwise, no stress marks or cracks or anything. Should that be replaced? How is it replaced? I have a set of four of them that cam in the Blau parts kit but I could swear that the little plastic bag they came in said 1.8t & 2.8....

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Those plastic gizzies just snap on. They're used on many audi engines. In most cases those are the only things that need to be changed but the stealer changes the whole tensioner (which comes with new plastic 'shoes'.)

SloopJohnB@mac.com

PS: They're not grooved when new. As to how deep the groove is when deciding to replace that's up to you. They're also generally discolored after a few years and may or may not be chipped or fragmented or partially broken off.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-Volkswagen-1-8-2-7T-2-8-Camshaft-Timing-Chain-Tensioner-Shoe-Pad-Pair-Set-/281156729510?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41763f3aa6&vxp=mtr

acarney

How exactly to I pop them on and off? It's it what the special tool uses to push down on to loosen the chain? With that special tool removed that chain is so damn tight I can't imagine being able to move those things much more then maybe a mil up or down.

Also, the packet I have has four of these plastic pad things but I only noticed the one on the top... is there one on the bottom too or something? When I removed my cams I didn't exactly turn them upside down to inspect, lol.

I'm thinking it's worth replacing since they are really discolored and there is a grove that's noticeable, BUT I don't really want to get into removing the chain and everything since I kept it all aligned the first time, lol.

(Also, really don't want to remove the cam shafts again, possible to replace the plastic bit without removing them?)

SloopJohnB@mac.com

I think you have to remove the cam chain tensioner to get the shoes off and replace them.
I can see why you don't want to have to do it again, seals/gaskets, etc.,..and the tensioner has it's own gasket (at least on 4.2 engines).

SloopJohnB@mac.com

And yes…the special tool presses/compresses the tensioner so you can remove the cam then the tensioners.

acarney

So just read this: https://forums.quattroworld.com/a8/msgs/55496.phtml

Pretty good write up (I LOVE pictures with arrows, then I actually know what I'm looking at, lol)

Sounds like the best (only?) way is to remove those camshafts again and work on them outside the car. I still assume the special tool to loosen the chain has to be removed once the chain is off to get that top plastic cap off and the new one on, then screwed down again to get the chain back on, then put back into the car and camshaft caps bolted down per instructions.

I'll mark my chain better (instead of just marks on the links sounds like now I need marks on the links and sprocket since the chain will be coming off, I was using the little alignment notch in the sprocket before but just to be safe I'll add a mark on there too) before I pull that again.

Maybe I'll apply more silicon to my metal gasket too, I just put a little line on that metal gasket that would be DIRECTLY above the half moon seal because I wasn't totally sure about the oil channel and didn't want to block that... but man I don't want leaks after all this work so I'm going to have to figure out what areas need to be clear for the oil and put silicon everywhere else.

Question, does the silicon need to be in a beaded up line, or can it be so thing as to be just a "glaze" around the edges... I'm worried even if it's crazy thin if it's beaded up when I torque it down that bead will squish into the oil channel.

Also, when putting the camshaft caps back in place it says to lubricate them, I'm using assembly oil which says it dissolves in lubricating oil (I assume they just mean normal engine oil once it gets up to temp and pressure) and have been putting it in the crescent part between the posts (the areas where the bolts actually go in). A little more generous amount but not caked on. My question is the oil channel, can that have the assembly oil in it, or should I take time to reclean that out after apply the assembly oil but before placing that on the camshaft and beginning to bolt down?