N_Jay

Next dumb question.

From the service records it looks like the brake fluid has not been changed for a few years (Maybe 10), and has not had (or needed) pads in about 8 years.

1) Given that, how common are seized (and hence broken) bleeder screws on these cars. (Before I dig in to do a brake fluid change)?

2) What fluid seems to be best (ATE or Pentosin)? Do these cars ABS need (or like) low viscosity fluid (ATE SL.6)?

3) Are there any common issue that show up with changing brake pads? Any tricks to know about ahead of time, or is it straight forward?

georgeb944

Yep, those bleeders seize. Probably a good idea to try to crack them open before you start any brake work.

Common brake fluid seems to work just fine, with regular changes.

Check youtube for brake pad change procedure. I have found that some the backing plates on some pads need to be machined a bit (grinder) in order to fit into the calipers without binding.

N_Jay

I am a little surprised that seized bleeders are a problem, only because I have worked on several Porsches with ATE brakes and never had a seized bleeder.

Was quite used to them on US, British and Italian cars.

Gsrob

It's funny that you made this post as I literally just did this to my 2k2 A6 2.7t today. My car failed it's safety inspection this year for having deteriorating brake lines up front. (Just the rubber was getting to be dry rotted but all braided line underneath was fine.) Regardless, I ordered some Stoptech SS lines that were coated in clear PVC. The only problem I had during the install was the damn wrench from Lowe's - 11mm & 12mm wrench for flared ends - had too much material around each bend to get a good grip on the bleeder screws and the lines that attach at the caliper. In retrospect, I would go with a lower profile wrench to save time. Anyway, I recently purchased the Power Bleeder kit from Amazon with the Euro attachment and it worked flawlessly to bleed at all corners of the car. At the same time I purchased ATE Dot 4 fluid with no hesitation and ran 1L through the system. It ended up being the perfect amount with just enough to top of the reservoir. I really wish the super blue was still available since it would've been so much easier to tell when fresh brake fluid was being bled out. After staring at each corner for a few minutes the gradual change from a tinted fluid to clear becomes much less noticeable regardless of the light.

None of my bleeder screws were seized but my car has spent it's entire life in VA out of the snow belt or salt belt, whatever people call it these days. No problem breaking them loose with 150k on the car.

N_Jay

Good to hear. Did you use SL, SL.6 or 200 fluid?
I am leaning towards 200 (Same specs as super blue), but have SL.6 on the shelf from the MBs.

If the rubber is cracked, the lines are BAD, as the cords are not intended to be exposed to the elements and age quickly.

I don't like SS lines on street cars as they are less forgiving to service errors (twisting) and road hazards, and a rubber line will leak and fail slowly giving you a soft peddle as a warning, SS lines tend to fail suddenly.

Gsrob

200... I didn't have time to wait for super blue 200 to show up from eBay so just went with the standard amber color. I steered away from SL6 since there was less info regarding compatibility or at least function on the C5s. I also read about the potential hazards about SS lines but since I am the sole servicing official for my car and since I am the sole pilot, I am less apt to worry about them.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

I've run SS lines on cars for over 30 years, no problems except for one oil line that was exposed to battery fumes….and even then the PTFE liner held up.
I'll probably go with kevlar braided brake lines or the clear covered SS lines next brake job as well. (Minor cracks in brake hose covers).

Gsrob

That's what I just replaced mine with. I believe they are clear coated in PVC then ss, and a PTFE core.

SS Lines

If anyone is wondering the VAG ones for all A6s are a direct fit.

Airbag

any time you have steel bleeder screws into aluminum calipers you run the risk of seizing. When i first got my 911 it was a real nightmare .. otook days to get the m cracked the first time without breaking them . But cchnging the brake fluid every 2 years ahs made it easy now and no issues whatsoever.

thee are all kinds of tricks to crack niples.. from guy heating and coolong cherry red ( 3 times ) befire tring to crack , guyys using a pic to get around the base of the bleeder and scrape out first, to whacking it right on the end with a small ball pine hammer to break tthe lock.
keep in mind if it is not giving you are way better off to take of the caliper ( if you are bleeding anyway no big deal ) and take it to a profesional , rather than snap the bleeder.

wms004

I'm happy with ATE Typ 200. Pentosin was my second choice.