3.0 asn fault code 17522
04-28-2014, 09:58 AM
#1
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3.0 asn fault code 17522
Hi guys, so far I've replaced all plugs, 3 coil packs 4,5,6, new oem PCV and hoses and all vacuum lines (bar one behind timing belt cover).
Car is idling and running much better, but still getting random misfire on all cylinders and now got code 17522! When I replaced PCV had loads of yellow gunk and condensation from top of bank 1, not sure if it's related?
Car is idling and running much better, but still getting random misfire on all cylinders and now got code 17522! When I replaced PCV had loads of yellow gunk and condensation from top of bank 1, not sure if it's related?
04-28-2014, 11:13 AM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Oxygen sensor:
17522/P1114 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2: Internal Resistance too High
Possible Symptoms
MIL On
Possible Causes
Faulty O2 Sensor
Wiring Harness Issue for O2 Sensor
Possible Solutions
Inspect O2 Sensor and Wiring Harness. See Repair Manual.
17522/P1114 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2: Internal Resistance too High
Possible Symptoms
MIL On
Possible Causes
Faulty O2 Sensor
Wiring Harness Issue for O2 Sensor
Possible Solutions
Inspect O2 Sensor and Wiring Harness. See Repair Manual.
04-28-2014, 02:33 PM
#3
AudiWorld Super User
High resistance indicates open connection or broken sensor heater element.
Check the connections from the ECU to the rear O2 sensor. You might try some contact cleaner at the firewall connectors..sometimes they get dirty or corroded. If the sensor on your car was spliced into the OEM harness, it's possible the splice has corroded or failed.
If you don't have connectivity issues, then you move on to replacing the sensor after checking resistance of the heater wires (two white wires)…you can measure the resistance at the firewall connector. Look up the resistance for the heater wire, it's probably something like 10-40ohms. As long as it's not open or shorted it's probably ok..it's a heater that accelerates the time to when the 02 sensor works; shortens warmup time for the sensor.
Check the connections from the ECU to the rear O2 sensor. You might try some contact cleaner at the firewall connectors..sometimes they get dirty or corroded. If the sensor on your car was spliced into the OEM harness, it's possible the splice has corroded or failed.
If you don't have connectivity issues, then you move on to replacing the sensor after checking resistance of the heater wires (two white wires)…you can measure the resistance at the firewall connector. Look up the resistance for the heater wire, it's probably something like 10-40ohms. As long as it's not open or shorted it's probably ok..it's a heater that accelerates the time to when the 02 sensor works; shortens warmup time for the sensor.
04-29-2014, 10:19 AM
#4
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High resistance indicates open connection or broken sensor heater element.
Check the connections from the ECU to the rear O2 sensor. You might try some contact cleaner at the firewall connectors..sometimes they get dirty or corroded. If the sensor on your car was spliced into the OEM harness, it's possible the splice has corroded or failed.
If you don't have connectivity issues, then you move on to replacing the sensor after checking resistance of the heater wires (two white wires)…you can measure the resistance at the firewall connector. Look up the resistance for the heater wire, it's probably something like 10-40ohms. As long as it's not open or shorted it's probably ok..it's a heater that accelerates the time to when the 02 sensor works; shortens warmup time for the sensor.
Check the connections from the ECU to the rear O2 sensor. You might try some contact cleaner at the firewall connectors..sometimes they get dirty or corroded. If the sensor on your car was spliced into the OEM harness, it's possible the splice has corroded or failed.
If you don't have connectivity issues, then you move on to replacing the sensor after checking resistance of the heater wires (two white wires)…you can measure the resistance at the firewall connector. Look up the resistance for the heater wire, it's probably something like 10-40ohms. As long as it's not open or shorted it's probably ok..it's a heater that accelerates the time to when the 02 sensor works; shortens warmup time for the sensor.
04-29-2014, 11:04 AM
#5
AudiWorld Super User
Hard to say. Misfires often from lean conditions, leaking vacuum lines. Unclogging the PCV system might have induced other leaks or uncovered them. I'd go back and go over all the vacuum lines and ports, especially kombi valves and hoses thereto, as well as the 02 sensor(s).
05-03-2014, 01:54 PM
#6
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Hard to say. Misfires often from lean conditions, leaking vacuum lines. Unclogging the PCV system might have induced other leaks or uncovered them. I'd go back and go over all the vacuum lines and ports, especially kombi valves and hoses thereto, as well as the 02 sensor(s).
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05-04-2014, 07:55 AM
#8
AudiWorld Super User
bad cats don't cause misfire…the front 02 sensor governs the fuel trim, after that very little ecu control. OTOH, misfires will cause bad cats..overheat, burning excess fuel in the cats.
Keep looking for vacuum leaks. They can be in other than vacuum lines, e.g., broken nipples on a tee or jet pump fitting, etc.
Keep looking for vacuum leaks. They can be in other than vacuum lines, e.g., broken nipples on a tee or jet pump fitting, etc.
05-04-2014, 09:34 AM
#9
05-05-2014, 10:46 AM
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Misfire usually occurs between 45-65mph and hasn't happened below 40mph, until today. Drove car for 1 mile, started misfiring and stuttering at 25mph, coolant temp rose to 95*c and has never been higher than 90*c. When I turned off engine there was a little blue smoke from right hand exhaust (standing behind car). Still only getting misfire codes for all 6 cylinders.
