spogle

Hi out there.
Im trying to get my daughters car back on the road asap. I think i really might of hosed her car up. I tried replacing her tb after installing a new water pump, t stat etc. I saw a video of a guy succesfully doing this by marking the belt and pullys in a few different areas and put it bak on and it started right up.
So I thought I would give it a go and did the same thing.. all of my marks lined up perfectly without a hitch, i started it and it ran a bit rough so i shut it off immediately. I tore back into it and lined my crank pully to the timing mark and noticed that the belt adjusted because the cam on the left was a hair off to the left and the cam on the right (driver side) was a hair off to the right. So I broke down and bought the 3391 cam lock and the 3242 crank hold pin tools. I re did everything perfectly and it tries to start but it doesnt.
My question is, could i have bent some valves being off just a smidge? Im afraid i already know the answer, but still in denial..

Thanks for any help!!

spogle

This is a pic of the cam positions at tdc after tearing it back down.

turbo510

Being a "hair" off shouldn't have led to bent valves, if you are you talking one or two teeth max. But bent valves always result in compression loss, so you could get a gauge and check that.

So it ran rough with the timing off, but won't start at all with the timing set correctly? That seems odd.

4Driver4

Lawnmower syndrome. Foot to the floor, crank until it starts.

Use the tools first next time <shakes head in dismay>

spogle

I know, it doesnt sound right does it. I was thinking loss of compression due to being off time as shown in my picture. I will stop bye after work and grab a compression gauge and check it.

Hopefully i flooded it or something..
There is just not enough time in a day.. I have 6 little ones, 2 in soccer seems we are at the fields both Saturday and Sunday and practices during the weekdays etc.
I seem to opt for the quick/easy methods.. next time I definetely will buy the correct tools.. Murphy has no sympathy for short cutters does he?

4Driver4

Google "lawnmower syndrome audi".

MurderedA6Avant

Ok so the tools won't do what they are supposed to do UNLESS you FIRST pop loose the cam gears with a puller....are you getting a check engine light any codes?

MurderedA6Avant

Go to harbor freight and get the vaccum/fuel pressure tester and hook it to the port that goes to the fuel pressure regulator...if you have a smooth needle reading at idle, the cam timing is not the problem...if you need help you can google vaccum gauge testing but this is the best way to diagnose a running engine...a good reading is above 20inches of vacuum...if you have a steady low reading you have an intake leak

turbo510

But he said that he doesn't have a running engine, so he has to determine why that is first.

spogle

Thanks all for your help!!
Wow there is so much to say in reply, im on my tablet so so each letter is a slow painfull hen peck, not to mention the corrections. So please bare with me!

4driver4

That is a good possibility, this actually happened to her car last year. I tried to start with my foot all the way down the other night with no luck. I remember thats how i got it started last time.
I havent tried a cap of oil in each cylinder yet.. Also the car's front end is still in the air on jacks, wonder if this would make any difference or not?


Murdereda6avant

I wanted to pull the cam pulleys this last time after I got the tools, but I got a wierd tink sound and it felt as if I was tightening that cam bolt up. I couldnt find any specific information as to which way to loosen, I went counterclockwise and it felt like the bolt was going to break. So I opted to try to see if I can get the belt tight enough between the crank,idler,and driver cam and I did, then i threaded under the waterpump over the pass cam real tight and then over the tensioner. I then pulled the pin and torqued he tensioner 11ft lbs counterclockwise. It turned out good, then i took off the cam lok tool and removed the crank holding pin and turned the engine 2 full rotations and back to my mark and was able to get the cam lock bar back on with just a tiny amount of downward pressure on the pass side after placing it on the driver cam, i mean tiny.. so yeah its still maybe not perfect. I would like to do it the way you suggest this Sunday afternoon. Also I did not mention this before, the crank pully doesnt exactly fit snug on the guide pins, meaning I can loosen all 8 bolts and rotate about an 1/8 or so back and forth? So I split the difference? I think the 3242 tool might of fit into a hole so that there is no discrepancy on crank placement, does that sound right??

Also about the fuel pressure, her car ran perfectly good before I touched it, as most things. Im getting used to it now, I still have to hear it though from my better half.. "See told you, you should of took it in, no one listens to me!!" Lol.. Im sure we all get a little taste of this now and again..