rohit13

the car has 68k miles right now. i was using 5w-30 oil and now i switched to 0w-40 mobile 1. both fully synthetic.

is there anything i do to extend engine life? some people say to clean the turbo lines. or seafoam the engine.

right now all the leaks have been fixed.

car's engine is stock. it is automatic.

AUJ

Seafoam may have some added benefit when placed in the fuel tank and oil crankcase prior to an oil change. If you Seafoam the intake tract, then you may take out on O2 sensor/EGT sensor or two. Coincidentally, that happened with my vehicle; one )2 and both EGTs at about 50K Seafoam treatment. I have no regrets. My idle became butter smooth and subjectively roll on elasticity was more impressive (no chip).

das2.7t

Wow, low miles for a car that vintage. The oil choices are good. Don't know about the turbo lines. My one suggestion is that when one of the components on the front of the engine fails (things like the water pump, alternator, etc...) or it's time to do the timing belt, swap them all out at the same time since the cost of the parts is not that expensive relative to the labor (or personal time) to remove the whole front clip of the car. Unfortunately, that's what you have to do to replace those parts.

4Driver4

Timing belt and trans service. No snake oils.

5v/cyl

You've already done one of the best things you could do by switching to M1 0w-40 or other VW 502 approved oil. Do the timing belt service, it is time just based on age and no amount of oil will protect the valves if the belt breaks. Tune up if you haven't already and tranny fluid/filter change.

Agree with 4D4 on not putting any snake oils in the crankcase. The only place I put Seafoam is in the gas tank. I must admit that I do use Lubro-Moly MOS2 in my engines, but never a cleaning agent.

rohit13

ive seen a bottle of Z maxx at audi dealership. directions say to put in engine oil and gas tank.
so u recommend not putting anything in the oil compartment besides oil right?

have u seen improvements with the seafoam in the tank?
ive been using lucas fuel injector conditioner.

5v/cyl

Nothing but oil in the crankcase. M1 0w-40 will clean up any gunk that might be in there. If the oil dirties up fast then shorten the change interval(s) for the first couple of changes.

I only run Seafoam a couple of times a year. Just before my oil changes. Seems to idle a bit smoother after and maybe a touch more responsive.

I'm still 'testing' the Lubro Moly MoS2 treatment, but initial results seem promising. Mileage seems to have gone up about .5 mpg, but that could be due to other factors as well. Oil consumption has reduced. My 2.8 only needs about a .5 qt topoff in a 9k mile oil change and my 2.7t needs no top-off in a 5k mile change, but is about a 1/4 qt low at change time. Both engines where about double that use prior to the treatment.

AUJ

Audi turbo motors of yesteryear do not have the best engineered oil passages, I believe the 1.8T 5 valve has had very bad sludge outcomes. Synthetic oil has detergents in it; low dosage snake oil. LOL.

http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...rgent_Oil.aspx

Just Me

either of those oils are fine - although both are marginal at truly hgih heats (hot, heavy extended boost).

If it was mine - in a the Northeast I'd use 5w40; in the South I'd use 10w40. Thick only beneficial if the car is driven very hard.

Snake oils useless.

1. drive easy until fully warm
2. cool down after driving hard to avoid heat soak
3. change oil regularly and use a good solid oil -- appropriate to your weather and driving style (there is no right and wrong, only appropriate to your use)

G

AUJ

Synthetics, particularly Mobil 1 5W-40 is detergent filled for longevity of the motor as answer by Exxon oil expert in the above link. Seafoam in the the crankcase pre-oil change is like an intense shrt term infusion of detergents, before one puts in the maintenance detergent via synthetic oil.: M1 on steroids if you will.

Notice detergent oils are VW 502, 505, and 505.01 VW/Audi engineering approved as well as Porsche/MB/and BMW. Thereby, all major German car manufacturers recommend and in some cases require snake oil. Snake Oil is 505.01. LOL.

5 oz. of Seafoam in the crankcase while letting the car only idle for 5 minutes until operating temperature is attained right before oil change will get out more coked oil residue than factory approved snake oil alone. High heat of turbo cars cause oil coking compiled with documented oil sludging (as in the 1.8T) is worth addressing.

Here is a .pdf copy of Mr. Trahan's form letter. He is the Director of Product Management and Quality at Audi of America.

http://www.autosafety.org/uploads/ph...iOilSludge.pdf



P.S. Valvoline Synpower has beat Mobil 1 5W-40 in oil analysis; worth considering when purchasing superior snake oil.