georgeb944

Sounds like you might have blown off a boost pipe, causing a large boost/vacuum leak.

What VCDS codes did you get after this incident?

icks90

Not daared take the laptop outside yet as its absolutely monsoon out there. But will check asap.

icks90

thought i'd give you a quick update on whats been going on.

took all the top intake pipe work off and checked for splits and replaced all the hose clamps, no issues.
took the under tray off and checked all the lower pipes and replaced the hose clamps, all looks good.


now have an amazing appreciation for all Audi mechanics that have to work on this piece of crap day in day out! JEEEEEEEZ getting them bottom pipes is an absolute nightmare! You need triple jointed super extended fingers! Got there in the end though and was kind of dissapointed there were no splits or popped off hoses. All that work and stress and scraped nuckles for nothing!

So the wonderful world of ebay came up trumps with a used hitachi MAF for £15. plugged it in and cleared all the fault codes (loads as I have been running it MAF-less for a couple of weeks, fuel rich codes etc) ad so far....touch wood.... ucky rabbits foot... headless chicken dance... so good!
lets see how long this lasts for.



also, one other question. Clutch is starting to slip momentarily when you give it some welly on the throttle. say bumps from 2000rpm up to 2500, then smooths back to normal within a second when the initial boost comes on.
dont suppose it could be a rear cran seal leaking and there is a drain plug / inspection hole in the bellhousing i can squirt some brake cleaner in to? My old landrover had this exact problem and i delayed the inevitable gearbox drop/clutch change for 6 months by giving the clutch plate a periodic spray of cleaner...

cheers
Nick

icks90

thought i'd give you a quick update on whats been going on.

took all the top intake pipe work off and checked for splits and replaced all the hose clamps, no issues.
took the under tray off and checked all the lower pipes and replaced the hose clamps, all looks good.


now have an amazing appreciation for all Audi mechanics that have to work on this piece of crap day in day out! JEEEEEEEZ getting them bottom pipes is an absolute nightmare! You need triple jointed super extended fingers! Got there in the end though and was kind of dissapointed there were no splits or popped off hoses. All that work and stress and scraped nuckles for nothing!

So the wonderful world of ebay came up trumps with a used hitachi MAF for £15. plugged it in and cleared all the fault codes (loads as I have been running it MAF-less for a couple of weeks, fuel rich codes etc) ad so far....touch wood.... ucky rabbits foot... headless chicken dance... so good!
lets see how long this lasts for.



also, one other question. Clutch is starting to slip momentarily when you give it some welly on the throttle. say bumps from 2000rpm up to 2500, then smooths back to normal within a second when the initial boost comes on.
dont suppose it could be a rear cran seal leaking and there is a drain plug / inspection hole in the bellhousing i can squirt some brake cleaner in to? My old landrover had this exact problem and i delayed the inevitable gearbox drop/clutch change for 6 months by giving the clutch plate a periodic spray of cleaner...

cheers
Nick

icks90

another update in the saga of the audi...

finally got round to looking at the EGTs, being tightfisted there was no way on earth I was paying £300 for a pair of sensors. A bit of searching around on the internet led me to posts about dry joints on the posts inside the boxes.
So out I troop and take the Y pipe off and unbolt the egt connector boxes at the back of the engine. Not much spare cable is there!!!!!!!!
Prised the boxes open and then set about removing all that clear jelly ectoplasm. By heck, that stuff is minging and horrible to remove. I ended up using a tooth pick to slowly gather blobs of it into a ball and remove it. But eventually i had the posts (2 on one side, 3 on the other) all clean and then ran a line of fresh solder up each from the board to the post. There is no room, you are essentially lying on top of the engine and working with no spare space to move the boxes about and it was a bit of a faff, and my back hurts now...
slapped a load of vaseline in the boxes and popped the lids back on and bolted it all back up.

cleared the codes and took it for a good run and NO CODES!!!!!

so glad I found the link about dry joints and the 45 minutes it took to do both of them is definitely better than spending £300 on a couple of new sensors! Plus looking at how hard it is to remove the sensors from the downpipes - super glad this fix appears to have worked

Nick

GTA_Driver

Just becuase you unplugged the MAF and the system is working fine doesn't mean you have a MAF problem.

When you disconnect the MAF, you send the car into an open loop system. It stops reading MAF values, along with oxygen sensors, and a few other sensors.

lscheres

Has anyone seen the polish guy who made new EGT boards that i guess are better if not just as good as OEM for 125 Polish Zloty(~$40)Looks quite easy to replace also. Much better then $300, might take this plunge since both my EGTs show intermittent signals and my MPG is horrible.

boost401

You can also code the egts out ....look on nefmoto you'll find the info you need

Kyle2218

I used the technique icks90 used... Pulled both sensors off the back of the engine, had a buddy hold the box's level while I re-soldered all of the joints. It has been about 15,000 miles in temperatures ranging from 110 in Texas to 0 in Colorado. Have yet to have an EGT code return.