My shop's oil recommendations threw me off
#1
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My shop's oil recommendations threw me off
They tried telling me that their Total Quartz 9000 full-syn was better than my Amsoil Euro Formula. Both 0w40. We agreed to disagree but I'm curious what you guys know about Total as it compares to others.
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx
#2
total is god oil, and they submit to testing, amsoil wont submit to testing, youll have their reps saying they dont agree with paying the ridiculous amount of money to audi or vw to certify their oil, but the fact is amsoil is no longer a small start up and if they want to gain legitimacy they need to step up and quantify their claims.
that being said amsoil through independent testing has been a solid performer, and its a way for them to get around stingy regulations regarding additive packages
that being said amsoil through independent testing has been a solid performer, and its a way for them to get around stingy regulations regarding additive packages
#3
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So if it's just about certification then Amsoil is bad from a point of view beyond the science and experience of the product. Otherwise, I know Amsoil is Group IV and Total is Group III, so that should contribute to making Amsoil better?
FYI, I have been using Amsoil Signature series for over 1,000,000 miles in engines over 15 years, and Euro Formula in my 2.7T. I've had nothing but perfect experiences so I'm reluctant to change unless there's a scientific reason.
FYI, I have been using Amsoil Signature series for over 1,000,000 miles in engines over 15 years, and Euro Formula in my 2.7T. I've had nothing but perfect experiences so I'm reluctant to change unless there's a scientific reason.
#4
not saying you should change, just the reason some people dont like amsoil.
also the total quartz full-syn is not a group 3 oil, dont know where you got that information from but its wrong
also the total quartz full-syn is not a group 3 oil, dont know where you got that information from but its wrong
#5
either way not a group 3 (yes the + does matter )
#6
Except for that, it's probably no better or worse then the other top-shelf fully-syn's.
Running from the wrath of indi-Amsoil reps now <click>
#7
i think the main reason a lot of people don't like Amsoil is because many of their independent dealers treat it like it's some kind of all saving religion. You know the types - if you don't use Amsoil, your engine will seize, your dog will die and you'll break out is body covering sores....
Except for that, it's probably no better or worse then the other top-shelf fully-syn's.
Running from the wrath of indi-Amsoil reps now <click>
Except for that, it's probably no better or worse then the other top-shelf fully-syn's.
Running from the wrath of indi-Amsoil reps now <click>
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#8
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OK, I'm sticking with my oil. Thank you for your responses.
I have 168k on my original turbo's and I'm trying to see how long I can go before they blow.
Let me leave you with a little real-world story about Amsoil in an engine for 189k miles with 36k OCIs. (MY2000 2.4L GM I-4)
I sold a trusty A-B car to my friend that I had since mile 5 on the odo. Amsoil Series 2000/Signature Series 0w30 was in it after a 1000mile break in. I would turn it on in 0F weather and instantly drive fast like an obnoxious bastard. Although after 140k miles the valve guides started to leak the engine was running strong until my friends mechanic reused the timing chain tensioner after replacing the water pump, causing the chain to slip/break and the valves hit the pistons, or so they thought. They ran a compression check and all 4 cyl's were at 191psi (valves must have not hit?), 6 more than the specs for a new engine. They were real confused to say the least with those values with an engine that old. They fixed it and he's pushing 190k in it now, stock clutch too.
I have 168k on my original turbo's and I'm trying to see how long I can go before they blow.
Let me leave you with a little real-world story about Amsoil in an engine for 189k miles with 36k OCIs. (MY2000 2.4L GM I-4)
I sold a trusty A-B car to my friend that I had since mile 5 on the odo. Amsoil Series 2000/Signature Series 0w30 was in it after a 1000mile break in. I would turn it on in 0F weather and instantly drive fast like an obnoxious bastard. Although after 140k miles the valve guides started to leak the engine was running strong until my friends mechanic reused the timing chain tensioner after replacing the water pump, causing the chain to slip/break and the valves hit the pistons, or so they thought. They ran a compression check and all 4 cyl's were at 191psi (valves must have not hit?), 6 more than the specs for a new engine. They were real confused to say the least with those values with an engine that old. They fixed it and he's pushing 190k in it now, stock clutch too.
#9
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Wow...I've never tried the "your engine will seize, your dog will die and you'll break out is body covering sores.." routine...does it work?
LOL.
Fair disclosure...lifetime amsoil dealer.
And i don't care if you use amsoil...I DO think a synthetic oil is better than dino oil unless you're leaking so badly that you use the cheapest oil available.
LOL.
Fair disclosure...lifetime amsoil dealer.
And i don't care if you use amsoil...I DO think a synthetic oil is better than dino oil unless you're leaking so badly that you use the cheapest oil available.
#10
Quartz is superb oil. But it is not 0W40 - it is 5W40 (if they are using the one that is VW 50x and Porsche approved anyway). Amsoil is also very good, btu i'm impressed with a shop that uses the Total or its twin, ELF Excellium.
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