smpate

So I finally pulled the trigger on my new A6 after trolling this forum for the past 3-4 months! Thanks to all for the great info and suggestions.

I think I've seen every single thread on the C7 forum, thought this would be a good place to consolidate the tips and tricks I learned and applied on my deal.

I ended up buying a 2012 A6 Prestige, Oolong Gray, Black interior, LEDs, side assist, walnut inlays. Wanted a black headliner and ash wood, but couldn't pass up the deal. Ended up negotiating a a sales price of $55,281 (11% off the $62,060 MSRP). 14 miles on the odo. The most I've heard on this forum is 6-7% off MSRP. I did get $1,500 for the current Conquest incentive, which is included in the final sales price above.

I leased 42mo/15k per yr, and ended up with a pre-tax lease payment of $821 x 41 payments, including AudiCare, $0 driveoff. $600 to ship the car to me, out of my own pocket.

Consolidated tips:

1. Don't settle for a deal with your local dealer. The three dealers here in Houston all suck - none were willing to meaningfully discount an order for a 2013 and getting anywhere near invoice on a 2012 was like pulling teeth. If your local dealer seems fat and happy (as many Audi dealers are right now, thanks to soaring demand), don't be afraid to take your business elsewhere.

2. Don't let dealers use Conquest or Loyalty money to get the car closer to invoice - the rebate money should be applied AFTER you get as close to invoice as possible.

3. Use the internet/fleet salesman - they work quick deals by phone and email, no games, and quickly get to non-BS pricing.

4. Use cars.com to assess the nationwide inventory (Audi's site doesn't have this feature) to find cars that might fit your criteria. When you call a dealer out of state and talk to the internet/fleet manager, they know you're very serious about the car.

5. Join the Audi Club of North America to get a $500 cash rebate direct from AoA. I confirmed by phone that they waive the 6-month prior to purchase requirement if you join for 3 years - $108.

6. If you lease, AudiCare is almost free. It is $800, but adds 1% to residual value. For me, it ended up costing me $6/month x42 months = $252. That's a steal.

7. If you lease, know the current published AoA money factor for your term/miles, and don't let the dealer mark it up. The Edmunds forums are a good place to find this info.

8. Consider fd-warranty to get a solid discount on Audi Tire/Wheel protection. $687 for 4 years, deluxe coverage ($0 deductible, $5,000 total cap, no individual claim cap, includes damage caused by curbs). Best I could get from my dealer was $1100.

Anything I've missed as far as tips/tricks/deals? It's way easier to get a great deal on a Bimmer, but I just had to have the A6!

snagitseven

All good points. Be careful of the often unmentioned prep/doc/etc fees they often add them on, sometimes as you go to pick up the car. Some dealers will even try to add the "advertising" fee and while, on their invoice, should be their cost of doing business, not yours. All will charge something for "doc" fees but be aware they vary widely from dealer to dealer. Best bet is to get all of these on the table before hand for your negotiation. Sales tax and registration fees are obviously not negotiable but beware of an overcharge on the registration fee - it could be padded beyond the dealer's actual cost.

Trade ins are a whole other kettle of fish, especially if buying out of state or by remote control on the internet. A dealer can discount the car to the bone and then make up the profit on a low trade value. The only way to negotiate a deal with a trade is working to the net difference - don't plan on easily getting to a Kelley's Blue book value. If you have a trade, no dealer will guaranty a final quote until you have the car appraised by the selling dealer. Even then, if ordering, be aware of potential trade in value reduction at time of actual new car possession. Selling your old car privately always reaps a better result (offset by the hassle).

As for all extra warranties, it's like going to Vegas. On average, the house wins so don't assume you will be a winner. Weigh all the costs, deductibles, etc. against saving the money and self-insuring. It's a dice toss with a nice edge to the insurer and a commission to the dealer.

If factoring the conquest or loyalty rebate in your net cost, be aware that as of today, Audi has not announced them for 2013 models yet (they probably will based on recent history). Be aware this does not reduce the price of the car or the sales tax as a result. Also, qualifying for the rebates is based on possession date - not transaction date - so don't get caught outside of the date on an ordered car.

If financing, shop around as hard as for the car itself. Rates vary widely and can make a significant difference in overall cost.

Even with the internet, buying a car can sometimes be as challenging as buying a house.

ks7

A couple of quick questions. How can I find out if there is still conquest money and when does it expire? Are they available for all models (Looking at an A4) or just the A6?

Do only certain areas get charged advertising fees?

If you order how long does it take and how much impact will that have on the price you pay below MSRP? I'd like a manual transmission and there was only one on the lot.

snagitseven

Conquest rebate is currently for 2012's only and good for delivery by July 5. 2013 rebates have not been announced yet but based on past years, will likely be published as available sometime in June. Maybe.

All Audi dealers and models have an advertising fee on their factory invoice. (Don't pay it unless the negotiated buy price is very close to invoice.).

It usually takes about 90-120 days from order to delivery. Much has been written about which is better for price negotiations. After purchasing 25+ new cars in my lifetime both on the lot or ordered, there's really no hard and fast rule. Depends on the dealership, how long a car has sat on the lot, whether or not it was used as a demo, dealers' inventory carrying cost, dealer allocations, desirability, timing in the month, etc.

dsheikh573

Thanks, just called and signed up and will apply to order that's already in production.
They told me I needed to sign up for 3 one-year member ships, which costs $147 instead of $108. Still saves me $353.

MickBlue

Called the Audi Club number today and was told they will NO LONGER give the exception if you buy the 3 year membership. There is a 6 month wait, NO EXCEPTIONS. I mentioned that others had called and gotten this exception, but apparently too many called. The woman I spoke with said this came directly from Audi. Too bad as I'm picking my car up this week and was hoping for some extra money

ks7

That is unfortunate. I was just thinking I could go new with the conquest rebate along with the Audi Club membership could give me $2000 off a new vehicle. Really this means only current audi drivers will benefit since almost all audiclub members are current or former Audi owners. They already give a bigger loyalty rebate as it is.

MickBlue

I agree. The lady told me basically it was meant to be a loyalty bonus for being in the club, and if I was just joining then how loyal was I? Makes sense I guess.

tenspeed

I'm glad I signed up in February. I'm eligible if delivery is past September.

dsheikh573

They should honor your exception that they promised you in February regardless of when it ships. You signed up for a 3-year membership on the condition that they grant you an exception to the six month waiting period for the rebate.