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2000 A4 B5 Battery Replacement and Battery Fitment FAQ (Updated 24 Jan 06)

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Old 12-20-2005, 10:07 AM
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Default 2000 A4 B5 Battery Replacement and Battery Fitment FAQ (Updated 24 Jan 06)

<b> Thanks go out to all the people who's pics i used</b>

<img src="http://www.fastaudi.net/a4/library/mini/battery1.jpg">
If you still have your stock battery, try adding DESTILLED WATER ONLY to the fill cap indicated by the yellow arrows. Most batteries sold here in the states are maintenance free type ones. Fill the battery up to the fill lines on the side before trying to charge her up. If charging doesnt work, its time to replace:

So my original Moll Batterie ETN 540 082 057 (German OEM Manufacturer) gave up its life cycle yesterday. Battery came with my 2000 B5 A4 (Build 99/8), the battery itself was produced in 99/11 its 05/12 now so 73 months on the stock OEM battery aint that bad. either way, i searched around and found some recommendations from other members but they were scattered all over.
Here is my list:

Duralast 48DL Autozone (direct fit verified by myself)
Optima 34R (might need a custom made bracket)
Napa 7548 (Dimensions: 11x6.75x7.4375)
Bosch 48B
DieHard International from Sears (direct fit)
41-4 from WalMart (seemed a little big in length when i measured it)
Interstate MTP 91
MotoMaster 72
Odyssey PC 680 (needs modifications)
Odyssey PC 1200 (supposed to fit with stock brackets)
Stinger SP 1000 (will need a cage to be installed into car to work)
Energizer sold by PepBoys ( direct fit)

00 A4 B5 comes stock with a Moll Battery that has 70Amps or 570/340 CCA Cold Cranking Amps.
The NEG pole is on the Passenger side and POS on the Driver side.The size is as followed
Length | Width | Height
278mm | 175mm | 190mm Metric
10.95" | 6.9" | 7.49" US System

The battery is held down on the bottom passenger with a small bolt and a clamp. The battery tray that comes with the car is a universal one from Audi and has 3 different holes for the bolt for 3 different sizes, the battery that the b5 is using uses the outest hole so it is as big as you get get without modifiying the tray or buying universal holding brackets.

I searched around the board and found several recommendations for batteries which i have listed here, i went with a Duralast Battery from Autozone which is a direct fit.

I didnt list the warranties or prices as those change with time and can vary; most batteries run between 40$ - 150$ depending on manufacturer. The warranty on most batteries is 2 years free replacement and a 5 year prorated replacement based on use for the original purchaser.

The replacement is fairly simple and sraight forward; make sure you have the <b>RADIO CODE</b> or you will get screwed afterwards, you will also have to reprogramm the date and time and have the windows learn the one touch up and down function again!

Battery weight is approx 40lbs, so be aware of that when handling the piece and dont break the oil dipstick or any other plastic engine parts that might be laying around.

Here we go:

Tools needed: Ratchet set with 13mm and 8mm, phillips screwdriver and a 10mm wrench
Time anticipated: 20mins

open the hood

<img src="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/pics/misc36-image006.jpg">
pull the rubber seal strip away from the firewall

<img src="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/pics/misc36-image008.jpg">
pull the tray upward and then out towards the front of the car

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/60446/a4_battery_location.jpg">
in order for the battery to come out you need to remove the plastic passenger windshield cover, its a good idea to replace the pollen filter as this time as well.
<a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc36.shtml"> A writeup for the pollen filter replacement is here</a> The cover is held on to the car with 3 phillips screws and an 8mm bolt. pull the cover away towards the top and then passenger side, the battery will be exposed.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/2181/odyssey_05_11_05_002.jpg">
this picture shows a motorcycle battery used instead of an automotive, the battery is small and the bolts towards the bottom left (the one thats covered with the NEG cable) is in the 2nd whole, the stock battery will be held down but will be found on the 3rd whole. Take a look at the orange section that is exposed on the POS cable. if you go straight down from the Orange you see a hole without a cable, this is where the battery drain hose will go, make sure that one is in there or you will run into problems later trying to get that sucker in there

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/10901/odyssey_pc680mjt.jpg">
another look at the motorcycle battery and the holes for the bolts. This person is using a non fitting battery and makes it work by using universal battery hold downs. With the stock setup use the 13mm socket and remove the braket holding the battery down.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/13830/sb_installed_1.jpg">
This picture shows the battery still installed, underneath the battery is a drain whole for the firewall ,often this drainwhole becomes clogged with leaves or any other dirt. <b> make sure that you clean it up before installing the new battery</b>

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/21967/pa040005.jpg">
remove the 2 battery clamps, starting with the NEG|BLACK first and then the POS|RED. Disconnect the battery drain hose from the battery and leave it in the whole mentioned earlier.Move the cables out of the way and pull the old battery out

Installation is in the reverse order except that you now have a longer hose for the battery drain to be connected to.
Old 12-20-2005, 10:23 AM
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Always disconnect negative first, then positive.
Old 12-20-2005, 11:01 AM
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good writeup.
Old 12-20-2005, 12:11 PM
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Default i do it the other way if you disconnect NEG then you you still cause

a short with the pos terminal attached.
if neg is D/C there shoudlnt be a any possible way for a circuit to close itself.
Old 12-20-2005, 12:49 PM
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Default By disconnecting the ground, you open the circuit.

So when you're messing with the + terminal, you can touch the body of the car with your hand or tools, and nothing is going to happen. You'll also notice that you won't get a spark between the + wire and the terminal as you pull the wire away (again, you already broke the circuit by disconnecting the ground).

Now, doing it your way, that circuit is live while you're messing around with the positive terminal trying to disconnect it. One small slip or one dropped tool, and you'll know you fvcked up. And while you're pulling the + wire away from the terminal it will probably spark, so put your jumping shoes on.
Old 12-20-2005, 01:13 PM
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Default hmm makes sense i always done it the other way as it seems more logical to me

i have the post edited..
Old 12-20-2005, 01:26 PM
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Default RKA's right. Disconnecting the ground will not allow any current to leave the battery...

this way, there is no possibility of the positive terminal sparking or shorting anything. that is, unless you drop your screwdriver or wrench accross the pos and neg terminals...
Old 12-20-2005, 01:28 PM
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Default yup, makes more sense to me now well its never to late to learn

now add your battery maker and model number to the thread that i just started way up
Old 12-20-2005, 04:20 PM
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Default I crammed in a Wal*Mart Everlast MAXX 1-N b/c I got it for free. 1000 amp / 875 cca woot!

It seems like a good choice, I'd gladly pay for one next time. ftr- the #41-4 fits fine and is $39.95, I've used several of them.
Old 12-20-2005, 04:27 PM
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Default i ran a 41-4 in my old 100cs. when i measured it today the battery was 1inch to long

to make the stock bracket work on the b5


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