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Press and hold the recirculation button. Then press the manual flow control up arrow. You should see a 1c. Press the temperature up ("+") or down ("-") buttons to select a code number. Then press the recirculation button again. The value should display. Press the temperature up or down button again to display another code.

NOTE: Air Flow Motor (V 71) and Potentiometer (G 113) are not installed in USA/Canada vehicles. Disregard values displayed for these components.

Code Displayed Value
1 System malfunction - displayed as a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), see chart below
2 Digital value of Interior Temperature Sensor, in Headliner (G 86)
3 Digital value of Interior Temperature Sensor, in Instrument Panel (G 56)
4 Digital value of Fresh Air Intake Duct Temperature Sensor (G 89)
5 Digital value of Outside Air (Ambient) Temperature Sensor (G 17), front
6 Digital value of Outside Air (Ambient) Temperature Sensor
7 Digital value of Ambient Temperature Sensor At Fresh Air Blower (G 109)
8 Digital value of Temperature Regulator Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 92)
9 Delta value of Temperature Regulator Flap
10 Non-corrected specified value of Temperature Regulator Flap
11 Digital value of Central Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 112)
12 Specified value of Central Flap
13 Digital value of Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 114)
14 Specified value of Footwell/Defroster Flap
15 Digital value of Air Flow Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 113)
16 Specified value of Air Flow Flap
17 Vehicle Speed (km/h)
18 Actual Air Blower voltage (Volts)
19 Specified Fresh Air Blower voltage (Volts)
20 A/C Compressor (A/C Clutch) voltage (Volts)
21 Number of low voltage occurrences, non-transient
22 Cycle condition of A/C Refrigerant High Pressure Switch (F 118)
23 Cyclings of the A/C Refrigerant High Pressure Switch (F 118)
24 Cyclings of the switches, absolute non-fluctuating
25 Analog/Digital value, Kick-Down Switch
26 Analog/Digital value, Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Warning Light
27 Coding value
28 Engine Speed (RPM)
29 A/C Compressor speed in rpm (Equals Engine Speed x 1.28)
30 Software version
31 Display check (all segments of A/C Control Head display light up)
32 Potentiometer malfunction counter, Temperature Regulator Flap
33 Potentiometer malfunction counter, Central Flap
34 Potentiometer malfunction counter, Footwell/Defroster Flap
35 Potentiometer malfunction counter, Air Flow Map
36 Feedback value, cold end-stop, Temperature Regulator Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 92)
37 Feedback value, hot end-stop, Temperature Regulator Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 92), max. stop
38 Feedback value, cold end-stop, Central Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 112)
39 Feedback value, hot end-stop, Central Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 112)
40 Feedback value, cold end-stop, Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor Potentiometer (G114)
41 Feedback value, hot end-stop, Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor Potentiometer (G114)
42 Feedback value, cold end-stop, Air Flow Map Motor Potentiometer (G 113)
43 Feedback value, hot end-stop, Air Flow Map Motor Potentiometer (G 113)
44 Vehicle operation cycle counter
45 Calculated interior temperature (internal software, in digits)
46 Outside (ambient) temperature, filtered, for regulation (internal software)
47 Outside (ambient) temperature, unfiltered, (internal software, in deg C)
48 Outside (ambient) temperature, unfiltered, (in digits)
49 Malfunction counter for speedometer (vehicle speed) signal
50 Standing time (in minutes)
51 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) in deg C
52 Graphics channel 1 - A/C compressor switch-off conditions are identified by illuminated segments of the  e88.8” display. See chart below.
53 Graphics channel 2 - Climate system electrical outputs are identified by illuminated segments of the  e88.8” display. See chart below.
54 Control characteristics
55 Outside (ambient) temperature, in deg C or deg F depending on setting on A/C control head
56 Temperature in deg C, from Interior Temperature Sensor, in Headliner (G 86)
57 Temperature in deg C, from Interior Temperature Sensor, in Instrument Panel (G 56)
58 Temperature in deg C, from Fresh Air Intake Duct Temperature Sensor (G 89)
59 Temperature in deg C, from Outside Air (Ambient) Temperature Sensor (G 17), front
60 Temperature in deg C, from Ambient Temperature Sensor At Fresh Air Blower (G 109)
61 Software version (latest)




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Diagnostic Trouble Code Meanings
Diagnostic Trouble
Code (Sensor) Malfunction Description
00.0 No malfunction present
02.1 (G86) Interior Temperature Sensor, in Headliner, static open, *02.1 (see below)
02.2 Interior Temperature Sensor, in Headliner, static short, see 02.1
02.3 Interior Temperature Sensor, in Headliner, sporadic open
02.4 Interior Temperature Sensor, in Headliner, sporadic short
03.1 (G56) Interior Temperature Sensor, in Instrument Panel, static open, see 02.1
03.2 Interior Temperature Sensor, in Instrument Panel, static short, see 02.1
03.3 Interior Temperature Sensor, in Instrument Panel, sporadic open
03.4 Interior Temperature Sensor, in Instrument Panel, sporadic short
04.1 (G89) Fresh Air Intake Duct Temperature Sensor, static open, *04.1 (see below)
04.2 Fresh Air Intake Duct Temperature Sensor, static short, see 04.1
04.3 Fresh Air Intake Duct Temperature Sensor, sporadic open
04.4 Fresh Air Intake Duct Temperature Sensor, sporadic short
05.1 (G17) Outside Air (Ambient) Temperature Sensor, front, static open, *05.1 (see below)
05.2 Outside Air (Ambient) Temperature Sensor, front, static short, see 05.1, *05.2 (see below)
05.3 Outside Air (Ambient) Temperature Sensor, front, sporadic open
05.4 Outside Air (Ambient) Temperature Sensor, front, sporadic short
06.1 (G110) Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), A/C static open, *06.1 (see below)
06.2 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), A/C static short, see 06.1
06.3 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), A/C sporadic open
06.4 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), A/C sporadic short
07.1 (G109) Ambient Temperature Sensor at Fresh Air Blower, static open, *07.1 (see below)
07.2 Ambient Temperature Sensor at Fresh Air Blower, static short, see 07.1
07.3 Ambient Temperature Sensor at Fresh Air Blower, sporadic open
07.4 Ambient Temperature Sensor at Fresh Air Blower, sporadic short
08.1 (G92) Temperature Regulator Flap Motor Potentiometer, static open, *08.1 (see below)
08.2 Temperature Regulator Flap Motor Potentiometer, static short, see 08.1
08.3 Temperature Regulator Flap Motor Potentiometer, sporadic open
08.4 Temperature Regulator Flap Motor Potentiometer, sporadic short
08.5 Temperature Regulator Flap, static block, *08.5 (see below)
08.6 Temperature Regulator Flap Motor Potentiometer, malfunction
08.7 Temperature Regulator Flap, sporadic block
11.1 (G112) Central Flap Motor Potentiometer, static open, *11.1 (see below)
11.2 Central Flap Motor Potentiometer, static short, see 11.1
11.3 Central Flap Motor Potentiometer, sporadic open
11.4 Central Flap Motor Potentiometer, sporadic short
11.5 Central Flap, static block, *11.5 (see below)
11.6 Central Flap Motor Potentiometer, malfunction
11.7 Central Flap, sporadic block
13.1 (G114) Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor Potentiometer, static open, *13.1 (see below)
13.2 Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor Potentiometer, static short, see 13.1
13.3 Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor Potentiometer, sporadic open
13.4 Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor Potentiometer, sporadic short
13.5 Footwell/Defroster Flap, static block, *13.5 (see below)
13.6 Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor Potentiometer, malfunction
13.7 Footwell/Defroster Flap, sporadic block
15.1 (G113) Air Flow Flap Motor Potentiometer, static open, *15.1 (see below)
15.2 Air Flow Flap Motor Potentiometer, static short, see 15.1
15.3 Air Flow Flap Motor Potentiometer, sporadic open
15.4 Air Flow Flap Motor Potentiometer, sporadic short
15.5 Air Flow Flap, static block, see *15.5 (see below)
15.6 Air Flow Flap Motor Potentiometer, malfunction
15.7 Air Flow Flap, sporadic block
17.0 Vehicle Speed Signal faulty
18.1 Fresh air blower voltage, static
18.3 Fresh air blower voltage, sporadic
20.1 A/C compressor voltage not OK - static, *20.1 (see below)
20.3 A/C compressor voltage not OK - sporadic
22.1 (F118) A/C Refrigerant High Pressure Switch, static open, *22.1 (see below)
22.3 A/C Refrigerant High Pressure Switch, sporadic open
22.5 A/C Refrigerant High Pressure Switch, 120X open, *22.5 (see below)
29.1 Belt slip detection "soft", static
29.2 Belt slip detection "hard", static
29.3 Belt slip detection "soft", sporadic
29.4 Belt slip detection "hard", sporadic

Diagnostic Trouble Code Notes: *02.1 Digital default value of 128 is programmed if sensor fails
*04.1 Value supplied by Temp. Sensor is used if sensor fails
*05.1 Value supplied by Temp. Sensor is used if sensor fails
*05.2 Digital default value of 128 is programmed if sensors G89 & G17 both fail
*06.1 Engine Coolant Temperature is calculated is sensor should fail or is not installed; diagnosis occurs only above 0 degrees Celsius
*07.1 Programmed corrective value = 0
*08.1 Temperature Regulator Flap Motor will no longer be controlled automatically; manual adjustment only
*08.5 Motor is cycled; software attempts to eliminate block
*11.1 Central Flap Motor will no longer be controlled automatically; manual adjustment only
*11.5 Motor is cycled; software attempts to eliminate block
*13.1 Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor will no longer be controlled automatically; manual adjustment only
*13.5 Motor is cycled; software attempts to eliminate block
*15.1 Digital value is internally programmed for limp-home mode
*15.5 Motor is cycled; software attempts to eliminate block
*20.1 Compressor remains off until voltage is greater than 10.8V for at least 25 seconds
*22.1 Compressor remains off until switch closes
*22.5 Compressor re-engagement circuit, VAG 1551 Scan Tool function

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<center><img src="http://www.wak-tt.com/tt/climatecontcodes_files/SevenSeg.gif"></center><p>
OBD Channel 52 - A/C Compressor switch-off codes

If an A/C compressor switch-off condition exists, a segment of the "88.8" display, indicated below as an alpha-numeric code, will illuminate.
Segment Condition
a1 Slippage or blockage, A/C Refrigerant High Pressure Switch, 120x off
b1 Engine Speed (RPM) less than 200 - 500
c1 Engine Speed (RPM) greater than 6000
d1 Engine Speed (RPM) greater than 6000
e1 System function OK
f1 System function OK
a2 A/C manually switched off (A/C standby canceled)
b2 low voltage
c2 Kick-down switch, compressor off for 12secs max.
d2 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) warning light switched
e2 A/C Refrigerant Low Pressure Switch (F73)
f2 A/C Refrigerant High Pressure Switch (F118)
a3 ECON mode selected
b3 OFF selected
c3 Outside (ambient) temperature too low
d3 Engine management system (compressor will remain off for 3 -12 seconds)
e3 High pressure occurrences more than 30 times
f3 Ambient Temperature Sensor at Fresh Air Blower (G109) less than 27 degF (-3 degC)
g1,g2,g3 System function OK (g1+g2+g3 must illuminate simultaneously to indicate system is OK)
Decimal Point
Lit A/C compressor ON
Decimal Point
Unlit A/C compressor OFF



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OBD Channel 53 - Climate system electrical output codes

When a NO system electrical output is activated, a segment of the "88.8" display, indicated below as an alpha-numeric code, will illuminate. The decimal point in the "88.8" display will not illuminate in this channel.
Segment Condition
a1 Fan for interior temperature sensor
b1 Fresh air/recirculation flap closed (recirculation mode)
c1 Heater valve closed
d1 Bi-directional wiring harness
e1 A/C compressor ON
f1 coolant fan first speed ON
a2 Air flow flap open
b2 Air flow flap open
c2 Air flow flap closed
d2 Footwell/Defroster flap in "Footwell" position
e2 Footwell/Defroster flap in "Footwell" position
f2 Footwell/Defroster flap in "Defroster" position
a3 Central flap in "instrument panel outlet" position
b3 Central flap in "instrument panel outlet" position
c3 Central flap in "footwell outlet/defrost" position
d3 Temperature flap in "cold air" position
e3 Temperature flap in "cold air" position
f3 Temperature flap in "warm air" position
g1,g2,g3 System function OK (g1+g2+g3 must illuminate simultaneously to indicate system is OK)

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I searched Audiworld when I did my UUC install and came up with three write-ups, which I have cut and pasted below (sorry for the length but I figure more info is better than less). The first one is really for an S4 and contains much more info than you need, but it is helpful in its detail. After doing the install myself and having the benefit of hindsight, I think the third write-up is probably the most spot on. I really recommend getting someone to help you because an extra set of hands to steady the mechanism while you work on the bottom-most bolt is a virtual necessity. Good Luck


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Zen and the art of installing the UUC Short Shifter in the Audi S4 Bi-turbo

by Tom Barber


This installation is not technically complex, but it does require patience, dexterity, and some mechanical skill. If you aren't accustomed to dealing with challenging mechanical problems or if you have large hands, you should consider having someone else do this.

The average novice installation time appears to be about 2 hours. Please follow these instructions one paragraph at a time, being certain to read and understand the entire paragraph completely before starting to perform those steps.


First, a few words about circlips and circlip tools. Do not think for a second that you will be able to do this with needle-nose pliers. There are two kinds of circlips, and the shift mechanism has one of each type. One is a small "outer", i.e., it surrounds the shaft and is spread open. The second one is a large "inner", i.e., it slips into a cylinder and is held in compression. When you go to the hardware store and look for "circlip/snapring pliers", you will find that there are pliers for inner circlips and there are pliers for outer circlips.

The difference in the tool is whether the action of squeezing the grip translates into compression, like normal pliers, or expansion. The tips on the tool for the large inner circlip must open at least a full inch when the grips are fully separated. The tips can be straight, 45 degrees, or 90 degrees. I found a single convertible pliers with interchangeable tips at Sears for about $12. It had a moveable arm that allowed it to be converted between inner and outer, and it was perfectly adequate for this job. I found the straight tips easiest to use.

There is another important topic to discuss before we begin, which is the matter of the UUC shifter leaning a tad more to the right as compared to the stock shifter. More specifically, with the stock shifter, when the transmission is in neutral, the shaft will be very nearly vertical, with little if any perceptible lean to the right or the left. Because the neutral position is between 3rd and 4th, when in either of those gears the shaft will have little perceptible lean to the right or the left, but will lean to the left when in 1st or 2nd, and will lean to the right only when in 5th or 6th. With the UUC shifter, however, at least with the one that they shipped to me and most other people prior to the time of this writing, the shaft leans to the right when it is in 3rd/neutal/4th, and exhibits almost no lateral lean when it is in 1st/2nd. These instructions will tell you how to correct for this, and will explain why this is so in just a moment, but it is important to note and to emphasize that there is little likelihood that it will bother you at all. It didn't bother me at all until I was in a dealership and sat in a stock car and realized that it was different. The effort to correct this is minor, but for most people it still is probably not worth the effort. The UUC short shifter greatly enhances the S4 driving experience, period.

Okay, having made that absolutely clear, here is the reason why it is that way. It has to do with the little ****-like protrusion on the right side of the shaft that is there so that you will have to push the shaft down in order to get it over far enough to go into reverse. What happens is that as the shaft is leaned to the left, as though to put it in reverse, this little ****-like thing, which locates just below the pivot ball, swings to the right and bumps against a surface on the plastic tray that holds the pivot ball. You will be able to see this easily once you have the pivot ball out. For the moment, note that the distance that this little ****-like protrusion extends from the center line of the shaft has the effect of determining the amount of lateral tilt that is absolutely necessary in order to be able to engage reverse, 1st and 2nd gears. (Unless you decide to cut the ****-like protrusion off completely and defeat its purpose, but there is a much better alternative.) On the stock unit, this distance, roughly measured, appears to be about 7/16 inch, whereas on the UUC unit, this distance is about 1/16 inch greater, and that is the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth as regards whether and why the UUC shifter leans to the right more than the stock unit.

One final bit of advice before we begin: It is best to do this in the full light of day with the sunshade pulled back, but if you must do this in a garage where the light is less than ideal, you can set a flashlight, pointing downward, on the cup holder that pulls out the from the dash.

STEP #ONE: REMOVE SOME STUFF. Twist off the shift ****. If you didn't already guessthat this was counter-clockwise, stop now and go find someone to do this for you. I'm not sure what car is shown in the picture in the UUC instructions, but the S4 is different in that the leather boot is set in a removable cover plate and is held in with clips underneath. Don't try to remove the boot the way that is shown in the UUC picture. Instead, remove the plate by reaching into the rear of the leather boot with the tips of your fingers just far enough to feel the lower edge, and with your thumb at the rear edge where it curves down, pull it gently but firmly straight up until it releases. Rotate it up to about 30 degrees, then expect it to pull it out from under the ashtray as you rotate it from about 30 degrees to about 45 degrees. There are two little metal parts that locate two pins under the plate, and these may lift and fall, so be sure to recover them and set them with the plate so that you will remember to put them back on. Next, remove the black plastic collar, and then using a 10mm socket, remove the two nuts that hold the foam plate, and lift the foam plate off.

STEP #TWO: OBSERVE. Before you remove the two circlips, take a few minutes to study a few things. Make sure it is in neutral, then look at the two bolts that are forward of the shaft. These are the two bolts that have the 6mm Allen heads. The upper one secures the black plastic tray that holds the pivot ball, and allows the fore/aft position of the pivot ball to be adjusted. The other bolt is below and to the left. It joins the linkage rod to the lower, horizontal arm that is attached to the bottom of the shaft via a hinged joint. Note that immediately under the head of the lower bolt, there is a small curved clamp. Immediately under the clamp is the flattened rear end of the linkage rod, which is similarly curved and also has a wide groove. The bolt goes through the groove and screws into a threaded hole in the forward end of the horizontal arm of the shifter mechanism. The reason that these parts are curved, that the groove is so wide, and that a clamp is needed, is that this allows the relative rotation, or twist, between the linkage rod and the lower arm to be fine-tuned. The twisting action applied to the linkage, together with the fore/aft movement, is what determines which gear is engaged. When the shaft is tilted to the right or the left, this causes a twisting action. In order for it to work correctly, when the shaft is in any given position for a specific gear, the amount of twisting action that is applied in that position must be just so. If it weren't for the little ****-like protrusion that I discussed previously, you could be sloppy with it and get it to work easily as long as you aren't to picky about whether it tilts more to the right or the left than you think it should. However, the little ****-like protrusion absolutely determines the amount that the shaft must tilt laterally for 1st,
2nd, and reverse, and if the amount of twist action applied to the linkage rod when the shaft is in one of those fixed positions is not correct, it will not go into one of those gears. Thus, on re-installation, the tightening of the lower bolt that attaches the lower arm of the shift mechanism to the linkage rod must be done with care or else it will not work.

STEP #3: REMOVE THE TWO CIRCLIPS, THE PIVOT BALL, AND THE TWO ALLEN BOLTS.
When you remove the small circlip (or when you put it back on later) be careful not to spread it too far, or else you will stretch it. This is NOT hard to do, and UUC ought to include a spare one of these. Remove the small white plastic part and the thin spring. Notice that the larger plastic piece that sits over the pivot ball has a protrusion near the top on the passenger side, and an opening directly opposite on the driver side. This is a housing for a spring that sits behind a plastic bullet and presses the bullet against the shaft. When you pull this piece off the shaft, the spring will force the bullet across the space and into the opposite side, and it may shoot through and out on the driver side. Hold your hand over the opening on the driver side as you pull it off. (It won't hurt.) The pivot ball, the two black rings, and a metal plate will slide up and off along with that top piece and will stay together as a unit. Now go ahead and remove the two 6mm Allen bolts. When you remove the lower one, be a careful not to fling the little clamp or the bolt forward into the linkage tunnel.

STEP #4: REMOVE THE STOCK SHAFT AND LOWER ARM. Notice that the UUC shifter consists of two heavy pieces that are hinged together by a special bolt. That bolt is actually smooth along all of its length except for where the nut attaches, and there is a smooth nylon bushing around it. The stock unit that you will remove has a similar arrangement and a similar bolt, and you have to remove it in order to remove the stock unit. Tilt the shaft forward and pull the whole thing back as far as possible so as to expose as much of the lower arm as is possible at the rear of the black plastic tray. Forget about trying to wriggle the thing out through the opening where the pivot ball goes, or about trying to get to it by pushing the bottom toward the front.

On the stock unit, on the driver side, the head is recessed, so you will likely not be able to get an open-end or box-end on it. You may have to use a socket, but you might not have room for a regular ratchet, depending on how thick it is. I used a special 10mm box end that was 12-pointed, and that was offset so that the handle was not in the way. On the passenger side, you will be able to use an open-end or a box-end, possibly even a ratchet box-end. The distance that you will be able to turn the wrench before having to re-position it will be minimal, so a 12-point wrench will be a huge advantage. Even if you are able to get a ratchet on it, it might not help, for a couple of reasons. Ratchets vary as to the number of catch teeth per turn, and also if there isn't enough friction in the nut threads to overcome the small force needed to push the pawl over the ratchet teeth, the socket will merely rotate back along with the handle. The main thing here is to be patient. As soon as you have turned it a half turn, be content that you know that you will eventually get it off and that it is just going to take a little while. When it is nearly off, the nut and the bolt head separate wider, and this changes the problem somewhat, depending on what kind of wrenches you are using.

STEP #5: INSTALL THE UUC SHAFT AND LOWER ARM. Now is when you have to decide whether or not you want to correct for the lateral tilt. If you own a Dremel or other rotary tool and feel confident that you can do this, you already know what you need to do. Otherwise, don't worry about it. If you do have the tool and the confidence, then what you want to do is grind off roughly half of the outer part of the ****, i.e., the portion that has a larger diameter than the portion that is closest to the shaft. Note that it will be tilted when it bumps against the surface on the tray that holds the pivot ball, so you should grind it more at the lower part, i.e, slope it to about 15 degrees or so. I did this several weeks after the initial installation, and rather than remove the thing completely, I disconnected it from the linkage rod and then pulled it up in the opening and was able to easily get the rotary tool on it. I used a cylindrical grinding surface with a very hard, rough surface.

When you put the lower, forked part of the UUC unit in, make sure that you don't have it upside down. The hinge hole belongs toward the top. The little ****-like protrusion goes on the passenger side. Before you put it in, study the location of the hinge hole relative to the large section at the lower end of the shaft, so that you will be able to visually get the two parts to line up almost perfectly without having to fidget with it. Then insert a small right-angle Allen wrench into the hole and wiggle it around to line up the two parts correctly. If you get them to line up correctly, you should be able to simply slip the bolt straight in from the passenger side with no difficulty. Then using just your left hand, and twisting your upper torso so that the open side of your hand faces the front (assuming that you are in the driver's seat), twist the nut on using your thumb and forefinger while using your smaller fingers to keep the bolt from coming out or turning. If this doesn't work for you, try placing duct tape over the head of the bolt so that it won't turn as you turn the nut. You should find that one of these methods will work until the bolt hits the plastic lock ring in the nut.

The bolt that UUC supplies has a knurled head, and the locking nut has a 3/8 inch head, but if you don't have English tools, a 10 mm metric tool will work just fine. (3/8" = 9.5 mm, so for low-torque applications a 10 mm wrench will work on a 3/8" bolt head, but not vice versa.) Again, a shallow 12-point box end is recommended for the nut side, unless you are able to get a ratchet socket to cooperate. The knurled head accepts a small Allen wrench, and if you have one the right size, use it. According to the directions, this is a 5/32" Allen head, but according to e-mail that Ben Liaw mailed, it is actually 1/8". (Someone told me that theirs came with the Allen wrench.) I didn't think that I had the right size, so instead I held a pair of small needle nose pliers tightly on the knurled part. This worked, but it would have been easier to have held the nut in place while turning the bolt head with the proper Allen wrench. It is very important not to over-tighten this, because if you bind the thing and then have to loosen it, the lock nut might not hold. The proper tightening is just to where there is enough friction so that you can't turn the bolt in the bushing using your fingers. If you do over-tighten it so far as to bind the shaft and the lower arm, it should be possible to loosen it a little and then put some sort of glue such as Loctite on the end of the lock nut, but if you do this be very careful not to compound the error further by letting the glue seep in between the bolt and the nylon bushing.

STEP #6. RE-INSTALL THE PIVOT BALL AND THE CIRCLIPS. Before putting the pivot ball back on, start the two 6mm Allen bolts. Tighten the upper one just to where it will hold the black plastic tray securely, locating the tray fore/aft so that bolt is roughly centered in the slot. Set the end of the linkage rod on top of the other piece and look to make sure that the slot in the end of the rod is lined up over the threaded hole. Set the clamp in place and start the lower bolt a few turns, but leave it very loose.

Put the pivot ball stuff back on and replace the large circlip. Replace the thin spring and the small white plastic part with the spring-loaded plastic bullet. Remember not to stretch the small circlip. There is a groove in the shaft for it. You will have to pull the shaft up with one hand while pushing the circlip down, compressing the thin spring. If you can't get the circlip into the groove, push it down as far as you can, and then use a small flat blade screwdriver to slide it down the rest of the way while pulling the shaft up with your other hand. Go ahead and screw on the shift ****.

Now comes the critical step that will determine whether or not it will work properly on the first try. You have to hold the shaft at the proper lateral tilt (and also fore/aft tilt) while tightening the lower bolt. The correct tilt depends on whether or not you have made the correction, whether you ground off part of the ****-like protrusion. If you did and you did it just right, the correct lateral tilt is no lateral tilt. If you did not do this, the correct lateral tilt is roughly 10 degrees toward the passenger side. The correct fore/aft tilt is a very slight tilt to the aft. (Notice that the black plastic tray is tilted up slightly in front. Hold the shaft so that it is perpendicular to the tray, and then push it forward about half the distance to vertical.) If you did not do the tilt correction, the best way to get the lateral lean correct is by looking at the bolt. Note that because the bolt goes in the threaded hole in the lower arm, that the lean angles of the shaft and the bolt are fixed with respect to each other. The lower bolt should be situated far enough to the left of center to permit you to get the hex bit with an extension on it, and it should be almost perfectly vertical, but with a barely perceptible lean to the left. Make sure that the linkage is in neutral. If you are not sure, tighten the bolt temporarily and check it, but loosen the bolt again afterwards. Now here is the most important part: move the shaft back and forth and MAKE SURE THAT AS THE LINKAGE ROD IS CAUSED TO MOVE FROM SIDE TO SIDE, THAT THE LINKAGE ROD IS ROTATING FREELY UNDER THE CLAMP! If you are sure that it is moving freely, then return the shaft to the proper lateral tilt, jiggling it as you go so as to encourage the linkage rod to neutralize itself, and check the fore/aft tilt. Once you think that you have the shaft in the proper place and the linkage rod is settled, then WITHOUT MOVING THE SHAFT OR THE LINKAGE ROD, TIGHTEN THE BOLT.

Now check that you can engage every gear, paying particular attention to 1st and to reverse. If you can't seem to get it in 1st, or if the shaft tends to move to the right as you push it into 1st, then you probably didn't lean the shaft far enough to the right. Even if you made the tilt correction and set the shaft with no lateral tilt, this might be necessary if you didn't grind enough off the ****-like protrusion. On the other hand, if it goes into 1st easily but seems hard to get it into reverse, then you may have leaned the shaft to the right a little too far. Again, it may be easier to gauge this by observing the head of the bolt instead of the shaft. If you don't have it correct and need to make an adjustment, be sure to loosen the bolt fully so that the linkage rod is free to neutralize itself, then hold the shaft where you think is the correct position, and then tighten the bolt again without allowing the shaft or the linkage rod to move. After you have it where you can engage all gears easily, then check the fore/aft tilt of the shaft. You can adjust that with the upper bolt alone. The smoothest action will occur when then shaft is tilted back at the same angle that the tray is tilted up at its front, but then as you shift from 2nd to 3rd, etc., the **** will raise slightly. I found that action unnatural, and also this caused a tendency for me to push the shaft downward compressing the spring, which made be worry that I would accidentally put it into reverse. You do have a little bit of freedom with this, so you can set the shaft with no aft lean if you like. Note that there is really only one setting that is intended to be variable: you can move the whole thing slightly fore and aft, but if you want to do this you will of course have to loosen the lower bolt again.

You're essentially done, but don't forget to replace the black plastic collar. When you put the cover plate back on, make sure that the two metal clips that locate the pins under the plate are in place. Last, but not least, put in the Steppenwolf CD and find the track that has "Magic Carpet Ride", and take her for a spin.

================================================== ======
UUC short shifter installation instructions (Number 2)


Items that you will need:


Very thin 1/4 inch ratchet
10mm shallow socket
9mm shallow socket
10mm open end / box end wrench
3mm hex key wench (I think that is it 3mm but I might be wrong it is for the bolt on the
UUC shifter)
Clip ring tool (this is the thing that open and closes the C clips. I got mine from Home
Depot for $20)
6mm hex key socket or a VERY big T-handle hex tool




Step 1:

Take off the shifter **** and the shift boot. Top get the boot off put your fingers into the boot and grab under the plate surrounding the boot and pull up. Don't fear this thing comes off pretty easy.

Also don't worry too much about dropping anything there is no where for it to go. The entire shifter assembly sits in this little plastic tub

Step 2:

Remove the C clip the is on the shifter rod. Take off all of the white plastic that follow. Be careful there are some spring-loaded pieces that might fly off.

Step 3:

The pictures in the UUC directions show these. Remove the Two 6mm hex bolts from in front of the shifter assembly. Try to remember where the bolts were in the slots. This is where you do the adjusting and knowing where they started will make it easier to put back together.

Step 4:

Use your spring clip tool again to remove the big clip surrounding the white pivot ball that is holding the shift rod. Once you get the ball and the two black rings out the fun part starts.

Step 5:

Here is where it get a little tricky. At the bottom of the shifter rod there is a bolt that connects the two pieces. You need to get that out. Put the 10mm socket on the driver side of the bolt and the closed end of the open end wrench. Now undo the bolt.

Step 6:

After you get the bolt out take the rod out from the top and the other piece will slide out the back.

Step 7:

Take the bolt out of the UUC shifter. BE SURE TO REMEMBER IT'S ORENTATION. IT MUST GO BACK TOGETHER THE SAME WAY!!!

Step 8:

Put the rod in through the top and the other piece in the same way that you took the stock one out.

Step 9:

Put the bolt back into the UUC Shifter. Make sure that it is going together the same was that you tool it apart. The little bolt on the side of the shifter rod should be on the passenger side....

Step 9:

Put the rest of the stuff back together the same way that you took it apart. Don't put the two 6mm bolts in yet save that for last, as you will need to do some adjusting. Do however get the rods for the shifter linkage and the assembly adjustment in their respective holes.

Step 10:

Once it is all together you will need to do some adjusting. Put the shift **** on but leave the boot off for now. here is what the two 6mm bolts do as best I can put it in to words. The one that is on the bottom is for the shift linkage. This will set the place of the shifter in respect to the shift pattern. The one on the top will is connected to the shifter pivot. Sliding this one back and forth will determine where the front to back neutral position of the shifter **** will rest. When setting this one don't go to far in either direction or the bezel surrounding the shift boot will prevent you from getting all of the way into gear.

Step 11:

Remove the shift **** and replace the shifter boot. Slide the front of it under the ashtray the push it down from the back. Replace the shift ****...

================================================== =====
Install Instructions (Number 3)

Tools:
- ratchet (I used both 1/4" and 3/8" drives)
- socket extension (3 or 4")
- 10mm socket
- 2 10mm wrenches (to be used at same time)
- 6mm hex-bit for socket wrench
- medium size flat-head screwdriver
- 1/8" allen wrench (thanks for supplying this UUC!)
- snap-ring pliers for a large *external* snap-ring.
- I did *not* need a universal joint for the socket wrench, although I had them
available
- A roll of paper towels

1. Remove shift ****.

2. Remove shift boot.

3. Remove console cover.

4. Remove foam insulation. It's held in by 2 10mm nuts, one in front of the lever and one behind.

5. Remove the evil snap-ring/circlip/c clip (whatever you want to call it.) This is a big clip surrounding the shift-lever and holding the mechanism down. You want to squeeze it together until it pops out of the slot that it is recessed into. I proved that I'm not man enough to remove this with needle-nose pliers. So, using snap-ring pliers I bought at Sears and the flat blade screw-driver I eventually got it out. Note that on the 2000 A4 this is the only snap-ring to worry about.

6. Remove big metal washer that lives under the snap-ring. It just lifts out.

7. Remove black rubber washer/cover thingy that lives under the big metal washer. Once you do this, the whole shift lever, including the ball and socket arrangement, moves up and down freely in the black plastic frame that is permanently attached to the car.

8. Detach shift mechanism from chassis and from transmission linkage by removing the 2 bolts at the front. The upper one connects the mechanism to the chassis, and the lower one connects it to the tranny linkage. Use the 6mm hex bit to remove both. Noting their relative position before removing them will make the reinstallation and alignment a breeze.

9. Now, in my opinion, the toughest step. Remove THE BOLT at the bottom of the stock lever using whatever combination of 10mm wrenches, sockets, and pliers you can handle. I got the 10mm box-end wrench around the bolt on the left-hand (driver's) side, and turned the nut on the right-hand side with the 10mm open-end wrench. The shift lever was all the way back (thus pushing the short piece at the bottom all the way forward.) This is tedious but doable. I was unable to get a socket onto either side. Having 3 or 4 hands *really* helps here.

10. Pull out the stock shifter.

11. Remove the plastic socket (that the ball rotates in) and another black rubber washer thingy from around the stock shifter. The socket just snaps off the ball.

12. Remove THE BOLT from the UUC shifter. Note that the allen-head goes on the right-hand (passenger's) side.

13. Attach the stuff from step 11 onto the long vertical piece of the UUC shifter.

14. Drop the UUC shifter into the car and attach the 2 pieces with THE BOLT. This is the reverse of steps 9 and 10 above, and I think it's easier. I used the 1/8" allen-wrench that UUC supplied to hold the bolt in place on the right (passenger) side, and tightened the nut on the left (driver) side with my 10mm open-end wrench. Once again, having 3 or 4 hands *really* helps.

That's all the hard stuff!

15. Reattach the shifter to the tranny linkage and to the chassis with the 2 6mm hex bolts. Adjust for taste (fore-aft position) and function (all the gears engage?)

16. Reinstall black rubber washer thingy, big metal washer, and snap ring.

17. Reinstall foam insulation with the 2 10mm hex nuts.

18. Snap console cover back on. I've chosen to leave the clips off until I'm 100% sure on my lever positioning.

19. Put boot and **** back on.

You're done! Well, sort of.

There's a big black rubber piece that lives near the top of the stock gear-shift lever. As far as I can tell, its sole purpose in life is to give the top of the shift boot something to rest on. Anyway, I can't figure out how to remove it from the stock lever to move it to the UUC lever. The UUC lever has been engineered to accept it. Aesthetically, it'd be nice to be able to move it, so if anyone has an answer??? Rob at UUC is looking into this for me. The part number is 8D0 711 188, so I guess I could just order it from Audi... (Audidua's advice. Use a hairdryer to heat it up and use a liberal amount of vaseline and twist and work it real hard, it will eventually come off)

I hope that helps somebody! Fire away if you have questions or comments. I highly recommend this mod, and I had fun with the install. Both Ben and Rob at UUC were very responsive to my queries and concerns too.

BSK auf Arbeit

<center><img src="http://www.drwombat.com/audi/resource/18t.jpg"></center><p>

BSK auf Arbeit

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/87006/coolant_temp.jpg"></center><p>
<img src="http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/images/product/iadmin/943_x600.jpg">

written by (aid): 24179 aka TriLiament

if you've had your coolant temp gauge become erratic, you probably need a new sensor. this means that instead of the needle going to the middle and staying there, like it should, it wavers all over the place between "Cold" and the middle. get a new sensor and it'll fix the problem right up.

i'm writing this for the sake of people who actually SEARCH for answers to their questions. when i searched, surprisingly i found that nowhere in the archives were there instructions on how to replace the engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor. i didn't even know where the sensor was until DigitalA4 responded to my recent post and also told me how to replace it. before then, it was a myth that the coolant temp sensor is a PITA to replace yourself and you should let the dealer charge you $200+ to do it. all it will cost you is $25 for the parts and about 3-5 mins of your time. okay, so here's how to do it. locate the sensor first. it's near the back of the engine, right in front of your battery. depending on your MY, it may be black or blue. i have a 99.5, and it was blue on mine. very easy to spot. this is a pic of its location, though i already disconnected the sensor in this, at least it'll give you an idea of where it is (you can see the old and new sensors sitting up there, the metal clip, the o-rings, and the plastic U-shaped clip).

now make sure when you buy the part, you have the correct part number for your application. the blue one is part #078 919 501B.

make sure to also get a new o-ring gasket when you get the ECT sensor.

if you have a black ECT sensor, the part number is 058 919 501A i believe the black was for earlier model years, but i'm totally not sure. just pop your hood and check yourself before you go to the audi parts dept.

now, how to replace (NO TOOLS NEEDED):
1) remove metal clip holding connector, either by using fingers or using small pliers... i just used fingers cuz i'm lazy
2) unplug the connector
3) pull out plastic clip from the outside of the tube
4) pull out ECT sensor and old o-ring gasket that's in the tube


5) put new o-ring into tube
6) put new ECT sensor into o-ring
7) replace plastic clip around the tube
8) plug connector back in
9) replace metal clip

voila, three minutes and you're done. i know this post was long, but i hope it answers people's questions about the coolant temperature sensor. as common a problem as this is for the A4 (it's VERY common), i was surprised to find little to no info about part #s and how-to's. i might write a tech article about this with more pictures just b/c the info about it is so rare. hopefully this helps people in the future.

BSK auf Arbeit

Relocate the antenna that comes out of the box under the rear seat, and thread it up the back of the rear fold down seat. Between the carpeted backing and the seat cushion material. Then across the top a tiny bit so it forms an inverted L shape. The antenna is BLACK and is only attached on one end to the remote locking module.

What does this do.... Gives a HUGE range on what was previously believed to be a ****ty remote. Its not the parts.... its the poor installation of them. That antenna is used for Frequency Modulation reception, FM is line of site, Line of site doesn't mean Superman's X-ray vision, RF signals don't travel through sheet metal too well. So the antenna being under the rear seat, and atop the gas tank and behind the trunk lid and doors, DOESN'T HELP.

This problem has bothered me for so damn long and I am so happy I fixed it.

Later cars have the remote locking module integrated into their locking pump which resides in the foam casing in the trunk. Certain years had a technical bulletin applicable on how to use a kit (new antenna) supplied by Audi to increase the range. There may be a way to modify the later cars... however I have yet to experiment with them

TristanP

<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/1759693.phtml">From the B5 A4 forum</a>

<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/wheel/msgs/64066.phtml">From the Wheel and Tire forum</a>

TristanP

<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/wheel/msgs/70841.phtml">Wheel and Tire forum</a>