Here's How to Fix Your Cruise Control...
03-26-2004, 08:32 PM
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Here's How to Fix Your Cruise Control...
It has been a long time since I have posted on here. So long in fact, that I forgot my password. I don't think that this solution has been offered yet. If it has I was unable to find it and sorry for posting repeat info.
I have found what I believe to be the major fault in the cruise control switch and I wanted to share this info with everyone. I have replaced my switch twice and have two spares laying around that don't work anymore. I finally gave up until today. I have decided to go back to school to earn my Masters Degree and I can't do without cruise for the long trips on the interstate. SO today I decided I would try and fix the elusive problem. I fixed all of my swithes using the same technique and they all check out just fine and work perfectly.
Although this is a relatively simple procedure it should not be attempted by anyone that is not mechanically inclined or electronically challenged. This being said I cannot be held liable for any mishaps or damage that occur from following these directions. I am however, considering offering this repair as a mail order service for a small fee. If anyone thinks this would be a worth while service to AudiWorld let me know. I want to make sure that many of you guys have the same results before I even try. There are so many of us with this problem that I think it could benefit a lot of people who can't do it themselves or don't want to spend the money on a new switch only to have the same thing happen a year later.
This procedure, so far, works on switches from 96-2000. But Audi has made changes to switches mid year and I was able to see distinct differences between the ones I currently have.
Before removing the switch and taking it apart. Print out the TERRIFIC posting by Andrew Aranda titled "Cruise Control Diagnostic for Non-DBW A4". It can be found with a simple search in the Forum. I don't know if there is more than one version but he did an excellent job. You will need this post, specifically the diagnostic procedures for the switch. Here goes:
Follow Andrew's directions on how to remove the airbag, steering wheel, etc... Once the Stalk & Switch assembly has been removed take it inside to a place with good lighting and a large work area. "Once again do not attempt this if you are not good with this type of thing" There are way to many springs inside that can fly out. You might want to get a piece of paper to write down where pieces go as you tear down the switch. This is really simple but you have to be careful. It is to detailed to give exact directions and anyone capable of this should be able to break it down easily.
First, Unscrew the two screws holding the single 6 pin housing on the cruise control side of the stalk. Follow Andrew's test procedures and record the results. Hint: you can forget about his color codes as the pin numbers are listed on the pin housing itself. If your results check out OK based on his procedure then doing my procedure will not help.
Remove all of the tape from the wiring and inspect the wires just to be safe. Take a small screwdriver and lightly pry on the RES,ON,OFF button. It will come off with little effort but be careful as a spring and small roller bearing lie underneath. I suggest putting everything in a plastic bag from this point on. Then, lightly pry the front and back faceplates of the switch off. They come off easily but treating them like a lady doesn't hurt. You will be left with a white piece left inside the casing. On the back is a retention tab. Press it in while pushing towards the SET button. This will remove the switch from the housing. "CAREFUL" when doing this, as there is a long spring that runs horizintal connected to the RES, ON, OFF switch. Remove this and then lightly pry the tabs that retain the SET button located on the skinny sides of the housing. Once again, be very carful as there are two more springs pushing against the SET button and it will go flying if you don't hold it and there are several plastic pieces as well. Watch how they are removed.
After the SET button is removed all you need to do is go to the wired end of the switch (I might mention that this is why I said to remove the tape from the wires. You need to take the switch out as far as possible) and lift the plastic relase tab holding the small circuit board in. Push the circuit board and the pice that used to hold the RES, ON, OFF button out through where the start button was. You are done. All you need to focus on is the copper circuit board sitting in front of you.
This little board and the whole switch design is actually not that bad. There is really nothing to go bad other that the board itself. No electronics of any kind. If you will notice on the end of the "T" plastic piece that was in the SET button there is a small metal contact and a spring pushing it outwards. There are also three more on the RES, OFF switch. Clean these with Alcohol. Scrub pretty hard but be careful as they could release and go flying never to be found again. Now for the best part. Look at the copper plating on the board. Here is the major problem. Oxidation of the copper causes a film (Tarnish) wich causes the weird test diagnostics in Andrew's procedures. If the copper was not exposed there would be no problem but if that was the case there would be no switch. This copper serves as the contact for all of the operations. This is why we notice more of a problem when it is really HOT (Humid) or Cold. During these conditions there is more moisture to cause problems. I also have a theory that using cleaners and conditioners such as Armour-All ETC... seep into the housing and cause further problems. Use a cotton swab soaked with alcohol to clean the entire copper side of the board. Press a little hard to remove any embedded particles. Focus on the solder welds as well and make sure the wires are still secure while your at it. Your done!!! Put the switch back together and before doing anything else follow Andrew's testing procedures again. If this was your problem which I think most are. You should see a perfect score across the board.
Remount the pin housing and the rest of the switch. You then need to wrap the wires once again (I used electrical tape). Reistall everything in the car and go for a ride. Sit back and relax and enjoy the ride. Your cruise problem has been eleviated.
I imagine this has to be redone maybe once a year to elleviate the problem. Maybe more often in harsh winter areas and humid climants. But hey, it is better than paying $300 for the new switch and having it fail less than a year later. I hope this helps you guys and good luck.
BD
I have found what I believe to be the major fault in the cruise control switch and I wanted to share this info with everyone. I have replaced my switch twice and have two spares laying around that don't work anymore. I finally gave up until today. I have decided to go back to school to earn my Masters Degree and I can't do without cruise for the long trips on the interstate. SO today I decided I would try and fix the elusive problem. I fixed all of my swithes using the same technique and they all check out just fine and work perfectly.
Although this is a relatively simple procedure it should not be attempted by anyone that is not mechanically inclined or electronically challenged. This being said I cannot be held liable for any mishaps or damage that occur from following these directions. I am however, considering offering this repair as a mail order service for a small fee. If anyone thinks this would be a worth while service to AudiWorld let me know. I want to make sure that many of you guys have the same results before I even try. There are so many of us with this problem that I think it could benefit a lot of people who can't do it themselves or don't want to spend the money on a new switch only to have the same thing happen a year later.
This procedure, so far, works on switches from 96-2000. But Audi has made changes to switches mid year and I was able to see distinct differences between the ones I currently have.
Before removing the switch and taking it apart. Print out the TERRIFIC posting by Andrew Aranda titled "Cruise Control Diagnostic for Non-DBW A4". It can be found with a simple search in the Forum. I don't know if there is more than one version but he did an excellent job. You will need this post, specifically the diagnostic procedures for the switch. Here goes:
Follow Andrew's directions on how to remove the airbag, steering wheel, etc... Once the Stalk & Switch assembly has been removed take it inside to a place with good lighting and a large work area. "Once again do not attempt this if you are not good with this type of thing" There are way to many springs inside that can fly out. You might want to get a piece of paper to write down where pieces go as you tear down the switch. This is really simple but you have to be careful. It is to detailed to give exact directions and anyone capable of this should be able to break it down easily.
First, Unscrew the two screws holding the single 6 pin housing on the cruise control side of the stalk. Follow Andrew's test procedures and record the results. Hint: you can forget about his color codes as the pin numbers are listed on the pin housing itself. If your results check out OK based on his procedure then doing my procedure will not help.
Remove all of the tape from the wiring and inspect the wires just to be safe. Take a small screwdriver and lightly pry on the RES,ON,OFF button. It will come off with little effort but be careful as a spring and small roller bearing lie underneath. I suggest putting everything in a plastic bag from this point on. Then, lightly pry the front and back faceplates of the switch off. They come off easily but treating them like a lady doesn't hurt. You will be left with a white piece left inside the casing. On the back is a retention tab. Press it in while pushing towards the SET button. This will remove the switch from the housing. "CAREFUL" when doing this, as there is a long spring that runs horizintal connected to the RES, ON, OFF switch. Remove this and then lightly pry the tabs that retain the SET button located on the skinny sides of the housing. Once again, be very carful as there are two more springs pushing against the SET button and it will go flying if you don't hold it and there are several plastic pieces as well. Watch how they are removed.
After the SET button is removed all you need to do is go to the wired end of the switch (I might mention that this is why I said to remove the tape from the wires. You need to take the switch out as far as possible) and lift the plastic relase tab holding the small circuit board in. Push the circuit board and the pice that used to hold the RES, ON, OFF button out through where the start button was. You are done. All you need to focus on is the copper circuit board sitting in front of you.
This little board and the whole switch design is actually not that bad. There is really nothing to go bad other that the board itself. No electronics of any kind. If you will notice on the end of the "T" plastic piece that was in the SET button there is a small metal contact and a spring pushing it outwards. There are also three more on the RES, OFF switch. Clean these with Alcohol. Scrub pretty hard but be careful as they could release and go flying never to be found again. Now for the best part. Look at the copper plating on the board. Here is the major problem. Oxidation of the copper causes a film (Tarnish) wich causes the weird test diagnostics in Andrew's procedures. If the copper was not exposed there would be no problem but if that was the case there would be no switch. This copper serves as the contact for all of the operations. This is why we notice more of a problem when it is really HOT (Humid) or Cold. During these conditions there is more moisture to cause problems. I also have a theory that using cleaners and conditioners such as Armour-All ETC... seep into the housing and cause further problems. Use a cotton swab soaked with alcohol to clean the entire copper side of the board. Press a little hard to remove any embedded particles. Focus on the solder welds as well and make sure the wires are still secure while your at it. Your done!!! Put the switch back together and before doing anything else follow Andrew's testing procedures again. If this was your problem which I think most are. You should see a perfect score across the board.
Remount the pin housing and the rest of the switch. You then need to wrap the wires once again (I used electrical tape). Reistall everything in the car and go for a ride. Sit back and relax and enjoy the ride. Your cruise problem has been eleviated.
I imagine this has to be redone maybe once a year to elleviate the problem. Maybe more often in harsh winter areas and humid climants. But hey, it is better than paying $300 for the new switch and having it fail less than a year later. I hope this helps you guys and good luck.
BD
03-26-2004, 09:18 PM
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I might try this here pretty soon. When I do, I can take some pics for you to make a write-up...
for the tech. If my cruise control doesn't want to engage or does intermittently, is this likely my problem? It sounds like it cause if I finesse the switch just right, I can get it to engage. Sounds like this might be my fix. If you need pics, let me know...
03-26-2004, 09:29 PM
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Re: I might try this here pretty soon. When I do, I can take some pics for you to make a write-up..
I have some that I am going to put on but my battery was about to die so they are not as good as they should be. I had to hurry.
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03-27-2004, 06:10 AM
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Re: Here's How to Fix Your Cruise Control...
BD,
Great post! Having mentioned the changes in the switch's design after year 2000. Does it appear to you that Audi addressed the condensation issue with the new design? I have a 2001 with 40k miles and live in cental NC, where it gets pretty humid in the summer and can get down to teens in winter. Fortunatley, I have not yet experienced this problem and perhaps it is due to the new design. Your thoughts?
Regards,
Dave
Great post! Having mentioned the changes in the switch's design after year 2000. Does it appear to you that Audi addressed the condensation issue with the new design? I have a 2001 with 40k miles and live in cental NC, where it gets pretty humid in the summer and can get down to teens in winter. Fortunatley, I have not yet experienced this problem and perhaps it is due to the new design. Your thoughts?
Regards,
Dave
