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No one who has the B&O,, time and expertise has published the structure of the B&O amp datasets. CarScanner can only access a very few modules and the datasets of those. So you might need to use VCP to modify the B&O datasets that are stored on the B&O amp themselves as opposed to on the 5F (MMI) unit which is accessible by CarScanner or directly via running scripts on the MMI's SD card.
I also cannot help but I am very interested to modify my Audi sound system DSP.
I first time see this is possible. It is next what to do on my Audi, so maybe later I am able to give some information.
I am familiar with DSP-s (have some at my home system) so DSP is no problem but access to Audi Sound system DSP is problem.
I checked all 'Sound Settings Editor' from MQB-Blog" and related pages on mqb-blog.com, but I did not find how to change DSP setings.
Had anybody some information what I had missed?
I checked all 'Sound Settings Editor' from MQB-Blog" and related pages on mqb-blog.com, but I did not find how to change DSP setings.
Had anybody some information what I had missed?
It seems that right now we cannot download the files we need to then tweak the settings, this is the problem we have on the B&O cars as the amp and all the settings is in the boot. The current method people are using are for non B&O and they are able to tweak the DSP as all the settings are inside the MMI 5F module.
Alright, over the past few hours I skimmed the 600+ posts. I think I'm ready for the job. I've taken my door panels and other trim pieces off numerous times so I don't think this is anything I can't handle.
I plan to first address my biggest complaint about the system - harshness in the midrange and high frequencies.
I plan to replace the front door midrange and center midrange speakers with the Peerless by Tymphany GBS shipped from France, and the lower A-pillar and center tweeters with the Dayton Audio ND25.
I also plan to buy 3/16" nylon standoffs for the midrange door speakers, as well as a couple 8uF capacitors to run inline with the positive wires on the A-pillar tweeters only, to act as 5khz high pass filters.
I just have two remaining questions:
1. I saw some people recommend the Dayton Audio ND25s with flanges (option 1, option 2 with waveguide), and others the bare element only. Which is generally preferred/easier, the bare element or flanged speaker? I am leaning towards the flanged model as I'd prefer to cut up the speaker instead of the car's brackets/housings. Ideally, in case I upgrade to an S4 I could return my A4 to stock and transfer them over. If the flanged model is easier to install (and return to stock), is it recommended to get it with or without the waveguide? It looked like @Chipmonstr used the waveguide model for his center tweeter in his post.
1. I saw some people recommend the Dayton Audio ND25s with flanges (option 1, option 2 with waveguide), and others the bare element only. Which is generally preferred/easier, the bare element or flanged speaker? I am leaning towards the flanged model as I'd prefer to cut up the speaker instead of the car's brackets/housings. Ideally, in case I upgrade to an S4 I could return my A4 to stock and transfer them over. If the flanged model is easier to install (and return to stock), is it recommended to get it with or without the waveguide? It looked like @Chipmonstr used the waveguide model for his center tweeter in his post.
You don't want to use the waveduide tweeters. It's not for this application and just increases the amount of material you'll have to remove.
To flange or not to flange, that is the question. If you use a flanged tweeter you'll have to grind down the flange until it fits in the factory opening. Not too bad if you have a belt or disc sander on your bench, but this method risks getting a lot of particles stuck on the tweeter dome are are almost impossible to remove without destroying it. If you don't use the flange and go with the bare element then you need to grind down the white plastic around the factory tweeter magnet with a 1/8" cutter bit in a dremel tool. Then drop the new element into the factory mount, bypass the capacitor, solder in your own capacitor and solder to the plug on the factory bracket. Now you don't need to use a wiring harness. You still can if you want. Personally I find this method is less work and a cleaner "factory fit" installation.
Like the tweeters I made my front door woofer rings from the original horns and preserved the original wiring harness plugs with it. The front door woofer has 1/4" spade terminals on it that you can relocate to the new speaker.
Can't thank you enough for all the useful info in this thread and looking forward to great sound!
I followed much of the content in Bobby's guide as well as contributions from Bruce Miranda. If you are going to use the Peerless mid in the center dash, be advised there is A LOT of Dremel carving to do both for removing the ears of the speaker and more specifically inside the dash cavity. I had to keep cutting down until I was relatively comfortable that the domed portion was not going to contact the dash grill assembly. It took a while, but I got it relatively clean, though as Bobby warned, the grill assembly likes to resonate. I did apply silicone/rtv to the clips, but apparently not enough as it does resonate at certain temperatures and frequencies. If you aren't fixed on the Peerless for the center dash, you might consider the Faital 4.5" that others usually go with as they are a direct drop in with no grinding other than clipping 2 of the 4 ears. The Peerless do sound excellent though.
I replaced the center mid and front door mids with the 4.5" Peerless recommended by Bobby, as well as the center tweeter and rear door tweeters with the Dayton ND25s. For the front door woofers, I installed the Silver Flute 6.5s available at Madisound- who also had the Peerless mids at the time. The Silver Flutes are really well made and sound great for a $35 speaker. Rear doors were the basic polycone woofers from Parts Express. I have not gotten to the lower A-pillar tweeters yet, but so far everything sounds MUCH better. I was coming from a B8.5 with B&O and that system seemed much more balanced and full from the factory and I was definitely missing that.
I designed and printed mounts for pretty much every speaker placement and Bobby's guide was quite handy to get close on design dimensions from all the photos he provided with a tape/ruler in the image- though there's no replacement for getting in there yourself and getting true dimensions where possible. I have to update some of my mounts to get the fit a little better (good as is, but could be perfect) and re-install.
I took lots of photos, but need to cull through them so I don't post dozens, but here are a few, including the center dash mid. Dayton ND25 and Peerless 4.5" Mid
The carve out needed for the center dash mid when fitting the Peerless 4.5
Front woofer mount- Silver Flute 6.5" 8 Ohm
Peerless 4.5" mid on back of door card, 5mm custom spacer
Dayton ND25 fitted to custom printed mount with harness and Nichicon Muse 10uF
I followed much of the content in Bobby's guide as well as contributions from Bruce Miranda. If you are going to use the Peerless mid in the center dash, be advised there is A LOT of Dremel carving to do both for removing the ears of the speaker and more specifically inside the dash cavity. I had to keep cutting down until I was relatively comfortable that the domed portion was not going to contact the dash grill assembly. It took a while, but I got it relatively clean, though as Bobby warned, the grill assembly likes to resonate. I did apply silicone/rtv to the clips, but apparently not enough as it does resonate at certain temperatures and frequencies. If you aren't fixed on the Peerless for the center dash, you might consider the Faital 4.5" that others usually go with as they are a direct drop in with no grinding other than clipping 2 of the 4 ears. The Peerless do sound excellent though.
I replaced the center mid and front door mids with the 4.5" Peerless recommended by Bobby, as well as the center tweeter and rear door tweeters with the Dayton ND25s. For the front door woofers, I installed the Silver Flute 6.5s available at Madisound- who also had the Peerless mids at the time. The Silver Flutes are really well made and sound great for a $35 speaker. Rear doors were the basic polycone woofers from Parts Express. I have not gotten to the lower A-pillar tweeters yet, but so far everything sounds MUCH better. I was coming from a B8.5 with B&O and that system seemed much more balanced and full from the factory and I was definitely missing that.
I designed and printed mounts for pretty much every speaker placement and Bobby's guide was quite handy to get close on design dimensions from all the photos he provided with a tape/ruler in the image- though there's no replacement for getting in there yourself and getting true dimensions where possible. I have to update some of my mounts to get the fit a little better (good as is, but could be perfect) and re-install.
Could you share the design files of the mounts for printing?
Can you point to information how to change DSP setting on non B&O systems?
I actually had also *** 9VD, not B&O.
Below is how I managed. I don't remember all the details by heart but they can be found on the mqb blog and Github => make sure you read that first + discussion/comments!
1. make a backup with M.I.B. tool
2. in the backup folder on the SD card find a csv file named "MIB version number"-datasets.csv and open it
3. find the dataset you want to modify and copy it.
4. paste it as hex into editor save as a bin file. This file should be readable by the Sound Setting Editor.
5. There are 2 ways to edit
5a: The easy way: reward Alex Strelets' fantastic work and activate a PRO subscription so you can simply edit and save in the editor
5b: The hard way: run the template in the editor and make manual changes.
6. Copy the new dataset into a script, save it to SDcard and run it in M.I.B. tool
Proceed with caution as there is always a chance of bricking your unit with this kind of stuff.
All credits go to the creators of these wonderful tools and posts.
10-21-2023, 02:31 AM
