afouralex

I was reversing out of my driveway and got an error tone and message indicating the reverse light bulb went out - kind of odd that the least-used bulb would be the first to burn out...so I engaged the e-brake while in reverse to check, but both lights were working fine...error message stayed on for the rest of the drive, then I turned it on a second time and of course it was gone...

has this happened to anyone?

Blue44

Perhaps the element in the bulb broke and vibrated back to the fragmented part of the break. With all of the warning systems I don't think it's uncommon to see little blips once in a while. They seem to become more frequent as the car ages. Or it could actually be a true malfunction, or a poor connection somewhere in the circuit. My guess is the warning system senses for high resistance.

cheers,

Blue44alex

GamA4

Hi, have you understood what happened, got the same problem today. Thanks

oaktreelimb

I would remove both tail lights (on the trunk lid) and check the bulbs and bulb sockets for burnt mark

Moviela

Each monitored lamp in the car has the current for the lamp pass through a small value series resistor in a control module. A microprocessor in the module turns on a solid state switch to illuminate a particular lamp. It then measures the voltage across the series resistor. The voltage will be in proportion to the current flowing through the lamp. The microprocessor knows the proper range for each lamp through programming. If a lamp burns out the voltage read will be zero. If there is a poor contact with the terminals of the lamp the voltage will be low and generate an error message. If you put a lamp in the socket that is much brighter than the one specified, the voltage read will be high and the computer will complain. Intermittant lamps are rare. Burnt out bulbs are the usual suspect. All lamps have a life rating. Old or new a lamp can expire at any time, that is why they have sockets. The second usual fault is bad contacts in the socket. The bulb to socket interface was designed while Edison was still alive, and no thought was given to microprocessors reading lamp current, so this is the first place to look for corrosion that might cause the lamp current to be reduced. The next place corrosion appears is in the fuse that protects the wiring for some lamps. (a lot of smaller lamps are not fused.) The last place to look is the connection on the module itself. Before tearing the dash out to find the module, get the manual and find the precise location for the lamp you suspect.

bllzdp

Error msg: left reversing light. My entire led running light JUST on the trunk section is out. However I open my trunk and the lights come on. I’m assuming it’s a loose wire? Has anyone had this, what’s an east fix? Not trying to pay Audi to simply adjust some wiring… help!

flnycus

Did you solve this? Same problem on mine, all bulbs seem to work. Might replace all and see.

bllzdp

I took it to Audi and they sent me a video of the wires being worn out. They’re located in the trunk itself (not the lid). I personally think they cut the wires themselves and I had to pay $500 for them to replace w/ all new wiring. You should definitely check all wiring before paying dealer to do any work. If you want the video they sent me just reply to this thread and I can email or attach it. Good luck!

Airbag

lol they didn't cut the wires... this is one of the most problem areas on just about every Audi i have ever owned.. everyone except my current one ( still coming im sure ) has the wires break at the flex point of the wiring harness where the trunk is opened and closed... i usually fix it myself. it is very tedious and time consuming , but it can be done.

bllzdp

damn sure looked like it but im no where near a mechanic so that’s why I take it to the dealer for everything lololol. What I didn’t understand was how it worked w/ the trunk open, but when I shut it they would turn off… #sus how does a wire just break if it’s physically not bending/flexing? Oh well it’s fixed now Lmao.