jdelbigs

hey the higher the gear the less mechanical advantage the engine has to turn the wheels. If you're not familiar with it, it's similar to a lever example where the further out you hold a lever (wrench or anything) the easier it will be to turn. If your clutch is indeed slipping in 6th gear, it will get worse and then begin to slip in 5th then 4th and so on until it looses all friction and will slip all the time. Your example is more of a standard wearing out than the failures some of these other guys experienced.

In short it's a warning sign and you should get it looked at and replaced before you get stuck on the side of the road.

newfinish

thanks
that what i thought,what bothers me is i just bought the car...gonna have to talk to audi about this.

nickstock

Yep, jdelbigs hit it on the nose...your friction plate is wearing out and your at the beginning of the end for your clutches holding power. At 2000 rpm, your close to the maximum torque from your engine and asking the clutch to handle it all at the tallest gear (6 th) is showing the weakness. If you bought the car CPO, then Audi will probably take care of this (I had a similar issue with a CPO car I bought back in 2000 and they replaced the clutch under warranty)..if not, then I'd get an independent shop to do it and buy a decent aftermarket clutch..you'll save yourself some money that way.

Hope you get it sorted out.

Nick

a4nik8or

[QUOTE=Dunstin;23856106]Hello everyone... This past weekend my 2006 A4 quattro's clutch locked up two blocks from my house. The auto has only 33k on it and has been driven by my fiance whom is not a street racer... The car has never had any probs and still under warranty, obviously not the clutch. The clutch never had any symptoms prior to incident, all of a sudden while driving at 30-40mph my I shifted and the clutch remained locked in a pushed positioned. Upon pullingover I noticed a stong "Burned rubber" like odor. I didn't have the ebrake on... I have done some research and have found quite a few identical stories... I received a call initially from audi service saying probably just a slave or hydraulic malfunction, but then after inspecting states the entire clutch is done, "Looks like cheese," was the exact words of service rep... I don't understand how a clutch is finished after just 33k, that is rediculous... Not sure what to do, get a second opinion? I have a local friend that could do it for probably better price, my fiance likes to do service with audi... They want over 1600 dollars for fix... Anybody have any similar scenarios or advise? Would be much appreciated. Thanks[/QUOTE

i had the same malfunction minus the rubber smell. Audi said the same thing... i want to report the defect TSB(technical service. bulletin). i believe there is a manufacture responsibility to correct this issue before someone gets hurt. and the "it looks like swiss cheese" is exactly what they said to me. there are many other cases like ours, we should do somthing about it

Peter Badore

A friend of mine has a bought from new 2005 A4Q 2.0l 6 speed that only has 21,000 actual miles when the clutch failed completely just as in this posting.
Audi said no warranty and wanted about $3000.00 to replace the clutch and dual mass flywheel. We have replaced the clutch and flywheel with Luk
aftermarket parts that are almost the same as the failed OEM parts. The failed clutch part was only the pressure plate side of the clutch plate that broke into four large pieces with no slipping or burning --just failed at the rivet holes. My question is this: Has anyone had a second clutch failure using OEM or using a Luk aftermarket clutch and dual mass flywheel assembly?
If I had a choice to do this repair again I think I would use something other than the OEM or LUK original design components.

3Vil_twin

I have an 2007 a4 2,0T. I did some mods to it and now have about 300HP and torque. I had to change my OEM clutch because it couldn't hold the power and would slip because of the high torque. I installed a stage 2 AWE clutch and light flywheel. This clutch has the same or even lighter clutch pedal feel. So don't think its a stage 2 and u will get a had clutch pedal feel. I beat my car more than I'm supposed to now loll. Ever since than my clutch and flywheel never had a problem. I had an axel brake and a transmission output shaft brake. That means the clutch is doing its job and giving me all the power out the engine . If I was u, ill buy the clutch and light flywheel from awe. its better to chance both at once. If u want u could only change the clutch. The awe clutch fits ur OEM flywheel. Just to let u know, if u also install the light flywheel, u will hear this vibration coming from the engine if ur car is under-reved. That's because ur OEM flywheel absorbed the vibrations because it was a lot heavier. High performance flywheels don't dampen vibrations so u get all the power out ur engine. Here is the site.

http://www.awe-tuning.com/pages/shared/part_detail.cfm?PMaI=1&PMoI=35&PEI=25&PP=b7_a4_20t _drivetrain.cfm&PPT=Drivetrain&IL=B7ClutchKit

Peter Badore

I believe the failure of the clutch disc friction surface was caused by
seizure of the original clutch slave cylinder. The clutch slave cylinder broke and leaked last night while we were static testing the clutch and dual mass flywheel before finishing the up the rest of the parts installation. Also a Mini Cooper S in my friend's BMW shop had a similar but not identical failure with a plastic clutch slave cylinder seizure.

600whpA4

Were you testing the slave before you had the clutch installed?

If you allow the slave to over extend it will pop the seal on the end of the slave body.

If he slave cylinder pops the result is not being able to change gears since the clutch will not disengage.

A great clutch for the A4 2.0t is the Clutch Master kit, it uses the exact same clutch kit used for the CM S4 2.7t clutch kit and the 240mm clutch kit for the A4 1.8t.

Peter Badore

The 2005 A4Q 2.0l turbo 6MTX is back on the road with 23,000 actual miles. I am sure the clutch disc failure was cause by a defective slave cylinder seizing and then releasing causing an effect similar to an extreme drop clutch start. When I checked ETKA and the local Audi dealership there were at least four clutch slave cylinder design changes and part number changes from the original defective slave to the new one installed last week.
Also, the static pre-completion test was done properly with the the slave and MTX installed in the A4Q.

a4nik8or

Did anyone keep the clutch they replaced?
I had identical experiences as many of you. and i my research i found that, the malfunction we call SUDDEN CLUTCH FAILURE occurs within range of 33k-40k miles. On other forums as well as this one people are sharing the same situations. MOTIVATE AUDI TO DO THE RIGHT THING START A TSB AND WE CAN GET REFUNDS FOR DEFECTIVE PARTS