kak39

2006 Audi A4 Quattro MT6 (MSRP $40500) Dolphin Grey, S-Line, Titanium, Technology, Sunroof.


$4000 down + 538.98 /month (36 months) *Includes Tax(6%) & Tags*

56% Residual (.00910 MF)

Seems high to me, cause I calculated it out on www.leaseguide.com it was ($484/month).

spencermfi

MF is over (WAY OVER, I think you're missing a zero?) the Audi Financial Services base rate of .00061.

What is the negotiated selling price?

I'm assuming that's for 10000 miles/year?

Why in the world would you put $4000 down? That money is *gone* if the car is totaled and it doesn't count in the end if you want to buy it.

spencermfi

According to edmunds, the "True Market Value" of the car should be around $38,800 (you could probably do even better).

Assuming that, and assuming the AFS base money factor, you should be paying about $517/month (tax included). The important thing to note is that the drive off should be around $1400-$1500 on a deal like that - *NOT* $4000.

kak39

The guy seems rather set on the MRSP of 40k + Tax. And dead set on $4000 down.

Tomasz@Startup

Go to AudiUSA.com and look at the lease special they advertise. Compare the lease special MSRP to your MSRP. Let's say that your MSRP is 15% higher. Add 15% to all AudiUSA special advertised numbers and call it a day. That will give you a fair deal, people have done better, but this is good enough. The offer you have is HORRIBLE. Unless your credit absolutely sucks.

This deal is SO bad that you would benefit from a specialist helpign you out. You may want to get the AutoSpies buying assistance or find a local broker.

I got a 38K MSRP car for $403 per month.

spencermfi

Actually, there's no deal right now on the audiusa.com site, but you can find the Audi Financial Services base rates here:

http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/financing/7760985-1.html

Remember, the residuals are set in stone by the bank, the dealer can't change them. AFS resets MF and residuals every couple months.

I would suggest that you email as many dealers in your area as possible. Let them know what options you want and also let them know that you know the AFS base rate and residual and ask them what their best price is on the vehicle you want.

Are you able to wait? Then you could just order what you want or find out if there's a car already on its way over from Germany.

One thing is that perhaps these Titanium edition cars are selling for more because of their exclusivity? - but certainly not worth you spending $3K to $4K more than you should.

studlee

mine car is very similar

msrp was 41,758
cap was 39,475

i paid 500 over invoice.

$500 down which was part of the first payment

and my monthly payments are 575 including tax.

36 months
15k
mf was .00041 0r .00048 i forget.

kak39

Wow, I might just show him those numbers and see if he bites. Thanks

B7MetroBeantown

you are the one BUYING...you have the money...they want it...so you control this. You need to turn this around on the guy if you want to. Tell him the going market price for that car is below what he is offering and he simply is not being competitive. Look up the Money factor and tell him you know it and tell him what it is. Tell him you know he is marking that up to for pure profit. Explain that base money factor ( assuming you have good credit) is your bottom line and give him your bottom line # for the purchase price of the car. If he won't meet it walk or ask for the sales manager and see if he/she will meet your terms. Also be careful they do not try to mark up the acquisition or disposition fees etc.

From what i am hearing it sounds like this dealer might try all of that and more.

I got my b7 for well below the MSRP. it was below Edmunds "true market" value. it was a few hundred over invoice.

You could try the internet pricing option. through edmunds is one popular way. they usually come in lower and have much less haggle/negotiation. This will get you to the "internet" sales people at you local dealers. Even the one you are haggling with now.

spencermfi

kak39, you should maybe look at the earlier threads you started on this same topic. I included a bunch of relevant information there as well.