Clutch issues....
11-23-2010, 12:26 AM
#21
So I had the chance today to look at the car with the gearbox out and in pieces. The race bearing is bad (I have the old one in my hand and there's a little play in it when you rotate it). Whilst the bearing was in place it sounded like there was noise coming from the torsen diff at the rear of the gearbox (which contains a planetary gear) but it turns out that once the bearing was removed the noise is no longer there, so the service guy believes he's isolated the problem. The new bearing hasn't arrived yet, so I'll let you know what's up after it's all put back together again. Evidently, there is a flexplate on the clutch side of things on the manual transmission, well that's what he told me today....although the gearbox was resting on the bench '***' down so I didn't get to see it...
Nick
Nick
bearing races have no play they are a strong solid round piece of hard steel where the bearing rolls, bearings have play to compensate for thermodynamic changes.
flex plate in the clutch side?
we definitely need to look at etka, do you have any part numbers?
11-23-2010, 06:43 AM
#22
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I have the old bearing and it's definitely faulty, you can feel a small click every so often when you rotate it with your finger. The ball bearing has plastic cups carrying the *****. What kind of gearing is inside the torsen? It's a stamped and sealed unit evidently, so you can't open it up...is that correct?
Thanks for your help!
Nick
Thanks for your help!
Nick
11-24-2010, 10:07 AM
#23
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planetary gear is totally different than a torsen diff gearing assembly
bearing races have no play they are a strong solid round piece of hard steel where the bearing rolls, bearings have play to compensate for thermodynamic changes.
flex plate in the clutch side?
we definitely need to look at etka, do you have any part numbers?
bearing races have no play they are a strong solid round piece of hard steel where the bearing rolls, bearings have play to compensate for thermodynamic changes.
flex plate in the clutch side?
we definitely need to look at etka, do you have any part numbers?
As for the vibration at 1500-2000 rpm, could just be caused by the clutch during the break-in period. I know the A4 1.8t owners get that with the 240mm kits.
12-06-2010, 06:13 PM
#24
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The end of the story...
So after 3 weeks in the shop, the major problem was the lightweight flywheel....just not enough mass and dampening to prevent the driveline vibration at low rpm. The stock flywheel fortunately worked with the new DXD clutch and my baby is back on the road again. The message would appear to be that a single mass flywheel just isn't suitable for smooth day to day driving but probably more suited to tracking the car, something I didn't intend to do. Now, just have to see if they'll take the flywheel back for a refund...
Thanks to everybody for their input.
Cheers,
Nick
Thanks to everybody for their input.
Cheers,
Nick
12-06-2010, 06:47 PM
#25
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Which is why it is best to stick with the heavier billet steel flywheels when going with a single mass flywheel, you do not want to put a really light weight single mass flywheel on a quattro car unless it is a track only car.
12-07-2010, 07:07 PM
#28
What are the purposes of all these different flywhéels? I have a light flywheel and I get lots of vibrations at low rpm in a few gears.
12-07-2010, 08:00 PM
#29
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Lighter flywheels allow the engine to rev up quicker. The downside is that lighter flywheels have less mass, so getting off the line is a little tricker.
Generally you want to run the heaviest flywheel that's suited for your application. The more mass it has, the less chance of vibration related issues you're going to have. For street, daily driven cars I like to prefer the stock flywheel. Steel lightweight ones are great for more spirited drivers and on the track. I don't at all recommend aluminum flywheels on Quattro cars, they're just too light and can cause all sorts of vibrations.
Generally you want to run the heaviest flywheel that's suited for your application. The more mass it has, the less chance of vibration related issues you're going to have. For street, daily driven cars I like to prefer the stock flywheel. Steel lightweight ones are great for more spirited drivers and on the track. I don't at all recommend aluminum flywheels on Quattro cars, they're just too light and can cause all sorts of vibrations.
12-08-2010, 07:33 PM
#30
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For what it's worth, and I'm certainly just learning, I've been loving life with my new light weight flywheel and stage 2 DXD clutch. I commute an hour each way daily and heel/toe every opportunity I get. I have a grin on my face from the moment I start the car until I park it. I also lightly (6-8 times/year) track the car but haven't yet with this clutch set up since it's only a couple of months old so will need to wait till Spring to try it out. I may be unpleasantly surprised with this set up down the road but so far am very happy with it. I noticed an increase but tolerable vibrations within the 1st 500 miles but now it's virtually non existent. Now, if only my Hawk HPS pads where quieter, I'd be perfect...