303e30

By the time you weld a custom fill plug, and make your fuel pump contraption Ill be done filling the trans. The harbor freight pump I used works fast, five quick pumps per bottle. No more than a couple minutes to fill it up far from "hideously slow" . I stated that it needs to be done at least every 30k in my write up as well.

Prospeeder

You know I thought about it and its the DSG transmission services that when doing it the way you did is hideously slow as they have basically the same drain and fill setup. The tube in the DSG trans is tiny compared to the CVTs large tube inside. The homemade tool works awesome on the DSGs and makes it more convenient on the CVTs but if your working in a shop doing more than just 1 every few years than having a tool and a fluid pump does save time and arm pumps in the long run.

You must have got one hell of a hand pump, most hand pumps iv used take like dozens and dozens of pumps before a quart bottle is empty and its brutal on your arm.

Also i find the name Audi gave this model hilarious. Frontrack.....lol we know its not quattro but we have to give it some kind of cool name relating to how well it still does tracion wise..

bmeeks

Thankyou for the write up I've looked everywhere for a straight forward easy write up. Yes sir you have succeeded in just that. I'm not sure why there are so many people trolling tho, it sucks to see all these negative individuals. Anyways thanks I will be doing mine this weekend and will check back in and let you know how it went.

bmeeks

Well I went ahead and did a Double Flush this weekend, one fluid change Saturday morning and one Sunday morning after driving around about 40 miles after the first. The transmission feels great and I'm really happy with the double flush method. I've had audi service it twice once at 40k and once at 60k both times 260 bucks. I bought 9 qty of ENEOS CVT QT Synthetic fluid on amazon and it was less then half. Thanks again me and my a4 b7 2.0t Apr stage 2+ water meth injected thank you sir.

deezell

Great write up and Pics. I've read a number of these to prepare for the job. Theres another good one here,
http://www.furitech.com.au/index.php...-fluid-change/
I note this author recommends moving the wheels in forward and reverse to get the fluid level just right, draining excess or topping up as appropriate with the engine running. I'm concerned about the car nor being flat when the level check is performed, as the filler is basically an extended tube into the box, which overflows when the correct level is reached. if the box is tilted, the level at overflow could be very different to the level when the car is flat. Another author of this procedure even goes as far as using a spirit level to ensure the box is flat. I'm jacking all four wheels to be on the safe side. I also like the reference to "friction modifier" additives, sound like an inexpensive way of getting rid of problems without mechanical intervention. I note also that the clutch can be calibrated, using VCDS I presume, but I wouldn't know anything about that. If someone does, please post.

deezell

Further to the above, I found this.
http://www.esatinc.ca/VW_Audi_Docume...structions.pdf
Two part procedure for adaptation, The first driving with the wheels off the ground, the second on the road with VCDS attached, and scanning the TCM, the transmission control module. It's starting to get complex.

tytower

Thanks for this informative and useful post
I have an A4 B6 2.4 L V6 with similar jerking and flashing panel and loss of drive problems .
What a P/poor effort by Audi. This pulls the whole series reliability to shreds. They will get no more recommendations from me.

To the box . I was not even able to ascertain where the filler was despite a fortnights research looking for workshop manuals and gearbox diagrams and 50 years experience of DIY repairs to all sorts of cars. The only useful stuff was here , and on the Continuously Variable Transmission page of the wikis.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contin...e_transmission
and see later posts for pictures

I now see where to go and will post a few photos here myself for future lookers. There is a mention on one post I read that the pan can be dropped and the screen filter inside cleaned or changed (but not on my model). I'll try to add more as I find it . There was talk of an inline filter in one of the oil lines . I have not found one yet if there is one and that may have been on the 1.6L engine only.(This is not on mine either)

I have bought one of these cheap USB and laptop programs and interface but I have not got that working yet either. Worked once and then the program crashed in Windows Vista and won't come back at this stage .Possibly a configuration issue.(See later its how you set it up)

tytower

First price the drain plug ! Then get it home ,drill it out ,braze in a nipple of some sort , attach a hose and clamps and..phew its just easier the other way.
Just a half of the screw to hold up the plasic covers is $7.98 AUD each and I need about 12 of them with the backing receivers /lock tabs $150 all up

tytower

Does not appear to be an edit button that I can see so here is the CVT wiki

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contin...e_transmission

Prospeeder

i dont think basing an entire line of cars or company's reliability or durability off one somewhat uncommon transmission on a 2wd Audi (yuk) Is very fair. Name ONE car company with a reliable CVT transmission. There isnt one. And Most of the issues after the updated transmissions are installed is from absolutely no maintenance on the part of the owners. Did you service it every 30k? I doubt it.