Audi 3.0L V6 timing belt service DIY (BWW)
#51
look man , I did not read the whole thing about your TB job. whatever happened with you it's not big of a a deal. if your cams moved or yout thing the cams moved just buy the timing allignment tools in the link below and your will straight the whole think. I had the same thing and this is what I was told buy the Audi dealer fox.
http://cgi.ebay.com/AUDI-CAMSHAFT-TI...item5ad9278489
I did buy this and I finished my Audi after that in few hours
p.s it doesn't have to be this one to buy. there are a lot cheaper ones than this one but for you to know.
Good luck
http://cgi.ebay.com/AUDI-CAMSHAFT-TI...item5ad9278489
I did buy this and I finished my Audi after that in few hours
p.s it doesn't have to be this one to buy. there are a lot cheaper ones than this one but for you to know.
Good luck
#53
I was following the instructions here. I have almost completed. I still have camshaft lockers on. However, after being done with replacing timing belt, water pump, timing belt tensioner, thermostat, idler pulley eccentric pulley, and timing belt tensioner pulley, and putting the rear cover, I realized that crank pulley is not alinged with the TDC line anymore. I have the pictures in may album (https://www.audiworld.com/forums/alb...albumid=169799). I guess I need to loosen the camshaft pulleys and rotate crank without rotating the camshafts (where lockers are still engaged). I bought the enhanced timing belt kit from Blauparts. I have some issues with it but no need to talk about it. I also have the tool kit from them.
I wonder if anyone had the same problem before. Do you suggest anything ?
I sort of guess that when I was loosening the 4 camshaft bolts with old timing belt on, the last bolt on one of the camshaft (after loosining the first three) rotated the crank counter clockwise. Since the camshaft has a quite bigger diameter than crank it was reflected more like 30-40 degrees on crank. I believe I need to loosen the all four camshaft bolts and rotate the crank clockwise till it gets back to the line. Do you think so ?
I have an old vag com cable. I will see if I can check through that.
Thank you,
I wonder if anyone had the same problem before. Do you suggest anything ?
I sort of guess that when I was loosening the 4 camshaft bolts with old timing belt on, the last bolt on one of the camshaft (after loosining the first three) rotated the crank counter clockwise. Since the camshaft has a quite bigger diameter than crank it was reflected more like 30-40 degrees on crank. I believe I need to loosen the all four camshaft bolts and rotate the crank clockwise till it gets back to the line. Do you think so ?
I have an old vag com cable. I will see if I can check through that.
Thank you,
#54
I was following the instructions here. I have almost completed. I still have camshaft lockers on. However, after being done with replacing timing belt, water pump, timing belt tensioner, thermostat, idler pulley eccentric pulley, and timing belt tensioner pulley, and putting the rear cover, I realized that crank pulley is not alinged with the TDC line anymore. I have the pictures in may album (https://www.audiworld.com/forums/alb...albumid=169799). I guess I need to loosen the camshaft pulleys and rotate crank without rotating the camshafts (where lockers are still engaged). I bought the enhanced timing belt kit from Blauparts. I have some issues with it but no need to talk about it. I also have the tool kit from them.
I wonder if anyone had the same problem before. Do you suggest anything ?
I sort of guess that when I was loosening the 4 camshaft bolts with old timing belt on, the last bolt on one of the camshaft (after loosining the first three) rotated the crank counter clockwise. Since the camshaft has a quite bigger diameter than crank it was reflected more like 30-40 degrees on crank. I believe I need to loosen the all four camshaft bolts and rotate the crank clockwise till it gets back to the line. Do you think so ?
I have an old vag com cable. I will see if I can check through that.
Thank you,
I wonder if anyone had the same problem before. Do you suggest anything ?
I sort of guess that when I was loosening the 4 camshaft bolts with old timing belt on, the last bolt on one of the camshaft (after loosining the first three) rotated the crank counter clockwise. Since the camshaft has a quite bigger diameter than crank it was reflected more like 30-40 degrees on crank. I believe I need to loosen the all four camshaft bolts and rotate the crank clockwise till it gets back to the line. Do you think so ?
I have an old vag com cable. I will see if I can check through that.
Thank you,
I'm planning to order the parts and tools from Blau shortly.
#55
I figured out the problem. It most probably moved like 30 degrees (counter clockwise) when I loosened the last camshaft pulley as the old belt was still on it. Lets not forget that camshaft pulley has quite a bigger radius than crank; therfore, a little turn on camshaft pulley is reflected much more on crank.
I simply loosened all camshaft pulleys with new timing belt on. I did not need to remove the new timing belt. Then, I rotated crank back to the line clockwise by hand. During which, camshaft locks were still on. Then, I tightened the camshaft pulleys, removed camshaft locks, and hand rotated the crank like 6-8 full turns to make there was no interference.
The issue with the blauparts order was about the radiator support long bolts and 4 camshaft seals. Two long bolts to keep the radiator block on after removing three bolts at each side were bent. So, I was not able to use them. I had to find some long bolts to do the same job.
Second issue was the camshaft seals. One of them was already open box and the part inside was a used item. Thus, I could not change the camshaft seals. I hope they wont start leaking soon. I informed BLAUPARTS regarding the issue. I will let you guys know regrading their solution.
I basically used camshaft lockers and the tool to keep the eccentric pulley stable while tightening the bolt on it. That could be done by a pin head pliers. I did not change any camshaft seal or crank seal. So, I dont think I used any other tool other than I mentioned here. I was able to remove steering pump pulley without using their tool. It was already off when I got the tool set.
Let me know if you happen to have any other question regarding the timing belt job.
#56
Hi,
I figured out the problem. It most probably moved like 30 degrees (counter clockwise) when I loosened the last camshaft pulley as the old belt was still on it. Lets not forget that camshaft pulley has quite a bigger radius than crank; therfore, a little turn on camshaft pulley is reflected much more on crank.
I simply loosened all camshaft pulleys with new timing belt on. I did not need to remove the new timing belt. Then, I rotated crank back to the line clockwise by hand. During which, camshaft locks were still on. Then, I tightened the camshaft pulleys, removed camshaft locks, and hand rotated the crank like 6-8 full turns to make there was no interference.
The issue with the blauparts order was about the radiator support long bolts and 4 camshaft seals. Two long bolts to keep the radiator block on after removing three bolts at each side were bent. So, I was not able to use them. I had to find some long bolts to do the same job.
Second issue was the camshaft seals. One of them was already open box and the part inside was a used item. Thus, I could not change the camshaft seals. I hope they wont start leaking soon. I informed BLAUPARTS regarding the issue. I will let you guys know regrading their solution.
I basically used camshaft lockers and the tool to keep the eccentric pulley stable while tightening the bolt on it. That could be done by a pin head pliers. I did not change any camshaft seal or crank seal. So, I dont think I used any other tool other than I mentioned here. I was able to remove steering pump pulley without using their tool. It was already off when I got the tool set.
Let me know if you happen to have any other question regarding the timing belt job.
I figured out the problem. It most probably moved like 30 degrees (counter clockwise) when I loosened the last camshaft pulley as the old belt was still on it. Lets not forget that camshaft pulley has quite a bigger radius than crank; therfore, a little turn on camshaft pulley is reflected much more on crank.
I simply loosened all camshaft pulleys with new timing belt on. I did not need to remove the new timing belt. Then, I rotated crank back to the line clockwise by hand. During which, camshaft locks were still on. Then, I tightened the camshaft pulleys, removed camshaft locks, and hand rotated the crank like 6-8 full turns to make there was no interference.
The issue with the blauparts order was about the radiator support long bolts and 4 camshaft seals. Two long bolts to keep the radiator block on after removing three bolts at each side were bent. So, I was not able to use them. I had to find some long bolts to do the same job.
Second issue was the camshaft seals. One of them was already open box and the part inside was a used item. Thus, I could not change the camshaft seals. I hope they wont start leaking soon. I informed BLAUPARTS regarding the issue. I will let you guys know regrading their solution.
I basically used camshaft lockers and the tool to keep the eccentric pulley stable while tightening the bolt on it. That could be done by a pin head pliers. I did not change any camshaft seal or crank seal. So, I dont think I used any other tool other than I mentioned here. I was able to remove steering pump pulley without using their tool. It was already off when I got the tool set.
Let me know if you happen to have any other question regarding the timing belt job.
BTW if you rented blauparts you probably have this lock for crankshaft ( it looks like a complicated bolt with some fine threads).
it is REALLY DIFFICULT to find where to screw this crankshaft lock. I spend maybe an hour looking for the thing.
good luck
nikola
#58
I dont think I am going to get a reply on this thread but Im in a similar pinch as yakoguno.
I changed my belt 5k ago using a blauparts kit. Everything went great. Then last week my car starting rolling backwards down a hill in 4th gear (didnt pull the e-brake up enough). Then the car wouldnt start.
After pulling the valve covers off I discovered that the drivers side cams jumped off a little bit, from the slack in the belt when the engine was rolling backwards.
Can I simply break all four cam bolts loose with the cam locks in position and then rotate the crank to proper tdc?
I changed my belt 5k ago using a blauparts kit. Everything went great. Then last week my car starting rolling backwards down a hill in 4th gear (didnt pull the e-brake up enough). Then the car wouldnt start.
After pulling the valve covers off I discovered that the drivers side cams jumped off a little bit, from the slack in the belt when the engine was rolling backwards.
Can I simply break all four cam bolts loose with the cam locks in position and then rotate the crank to proper tdc?
#59
I dont think I am going to get a reply on this thread but Im in a similar pinch as yakoguno.
I changed my belt 5k ago using a blauparts kit. Everything went great. Then last week my car starting rolling backwards down a hill in 4th gear (didnt pull the e-brake up enough). Then the car wouldnt start.
After pulling the valve covers off I discovered that the drivers side cams jumped off a little bit, from the slack in the belt when the engine was rolling backwards.
Can I simply break all four cam bolts loose with the cam locks in position and then rotate the crank to proper tdc?
I changed my belt 5k ago using a blauparts kit. Everything went great. Then last week my car starting rolling backwards down a hill in 4th gear (didnt pull the e-brake up enough). Then the car wouldnt start.
After pulling the valve covers off I discovered that the drivers side cams jumped off a little bit, from the slack in the belt when the engine was rolling backwards.
Can I simply break all four cam bolts loose with the cam locks in position and then rotate the crank to proper tdc?
I believe you can do that. That is what I did when they were not aligned. Make sure that you rotate crank 4-5 (full rotations) time to make they are aligned correctly. What I did was
""I simply loosened all camshaft pulleys with new timing belt on. I did not need to remove the new timing belt. Then, I rotated crank back to the line clockwise by hand. During which, camshaft locks were still on. Then, I tightened the camshaft pulleys, removed camshaft locks, and hand rotated the crank like 6-8 full turns to make there was no interference. ""
Do not hurry and go step by step not to miss anything. You may want to ask someone else as well. I just done want to misdirect anyone.
Good luck
#60
I ended up getting it all back together. The cams were pretty far off. I guess when the engine turned backwards, it loosened the cam gears.
I just removed the timing belt and turned the cams/gears by hand until I was able to get the cam tools inserted into the cams. Then I buttoned her all back up and she ran like a dream.
Now I have the trans ripped out as Im doing a clutch. Thats a whole nother project.
I just removed the timing belt and turned the cams/gears by hand until I was able to get the cam tools inserted into the cams. Then I buttoned her all back up and she ran like a dream.
Now I have the trans ripped out as Im doing a clutch. Thats a whole nother project.