turbo510

That's true for tapered-roller bearings such as the rears of a FWD A4. From what I've see the dual-row ball bearings can be loud without perceptible movement.

69gaugeman

Just started doing the rear bearing on my 98. Watch the ABS sensor. Mine was so rusted in I had to destroy it to get it out.

If your bottom adjuster bolt isn't rusted in, make sure you mark the location of the eccentric washer so that you won't need a wheel alignment. Mine had to be drilled out.

My 12ton press wouldn't press the bearing out, But I was able just use a BFH to pound it out no problem.

I am surprised there is no cir-clip holding it in, but with the press fit that was there I guess there is no reason for it.

HBAudi

If you operate the vehicle in an area where corrosive salt is used on the roads in winter, the lower wheel bearing carrier bushing should also be replaced if the bolt was corroded in place.

When a part is pressed in, a circlip is rarely used, especially with the outer constant-velocity joint and axle bolt holding the bearing in place.

Some members of this forum recommend using a 'hub-shark' tool to replace the bearings, but the cost of the tool is prohibitive. If the bearing carrier is badly corroded, it should probably be replaced along with the other rear suspension control arms and or bushings. With the age of most B5 vehicles and the deterioration due to salt and other factors, the rear suspension should most likely have the inner lower control arm and upper control arm bushing replaced as well to restore proper alignment angles and vehicle handling characteristics.

mtroxel

I had to cut mine out once and replace those lower bushings. I live in Minnesota where there's lots of salt on the roads 5 months/year. When you put if back together, use lots of anti-seize. Even in this salty area, you'll never have to cut a suspension apart again.

69gaugeman

I am a HUGE believer in anti seize. The next owner of any of my vehicles will love me.

Oneplank

I just priced out the cost of a new hubshark, about twice of what I paid for mine, but the new units come with a a half dozen new pieces. For nearly $500, I would buy it again. It's a lifetime investment with a lifetime warranty. For this repair, you don't have to mess up the alignment or the ABS sensor. Not having to pay for an alignment and not having to buy a ABS sensor make up half the cost of the hubshark. Use it once and sell it on ebay for half price and you break even.

For what it is worth, I have heard that harbor freight sells a knock off version for a fraction the cost of the genuine article.

HBAudi

At the risk of getting into yet another protracted debate on this forum, it has been my experience that simply replacing the rear wheel bearings may not be all that is needed. Given the age of most B5 vehicles and deterioration due to salt and other road conditions, the rear suspension should most likely have the inner lower control arm and upper control arm bushings replaced as well to restore proper alignment angles, ride quality and vehicle handling characteristics.

69gaugeman

I did none of these. Just replaced the bolt that seized and the wheel bearing. It would be quite obvious if the bushings are gone.

My alignment was well within specs after. (just had it checked for 20$)

stonewall92

hey Im having the same issue one the front. I AM replacing both fronts any helpfull tips as i assume this is much more difficult then the rear ( 2.8 30V quattro) thanks all

69gaugeman

Front and back are basically the same with the addition of the tie rod end to remove on the front. On mine the bearing was even the same. (98 1.8T quattro)