vtraudt

I have crazy boost (25 psi), bucking and cutout.
I suspect the N75 is bad (previous owner had it installed 180 degree off, 'long leg' not in intake hose, but to actuator).

ECS is showing 2 versions for the AEB,
06A906283E (1.8T AEB)
06F906283F (often used for 2.0T?)

Which (from above, or other) is the 'right' one for my AEB with Giac PC16, K04, etc?

NOT race (heard too much bad about it).

Best way to test the N75? Also have issues (but not crazy boost) on my other, identical AEB car.

In this context: What is the difference to the N75 used in the 2.7T (have 2, both currently stage 2, one soon RS6 turbo)?

Part number that comes up: 078906283B (and twice the price of the 1.8T N75)

vtraudt

Found this:

OE Part # 06A906283E
Alternate OE Part # 058906283C, 058906283F
Manufacturer Part # 06A906283E
Manufacturer Genuine Audi VW
Audi Models • Audi A4 B5 1.8T
• Audi A4 B6 1.8T
• Audi TT Mk1 1.8T 180HP
• Audi TT Mk1 1.8T 225HP
Volkswagen Models • Volkswagen Golf Mk4 1.8T
• Volkswagen Golf Mk4 337/20AE 1.8T
• Volkswagen Jetta Mk4 1.8T
• Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T
• Volkswagen Passat B5 1.8T

OE Part # 06F906283F
Manufacturer Part # 06F906283F
Manufacturer Genuine Audi VW
Audi Models • Audi A3 8P 2.0T
• Audi A4 B7 2.0T
• Audi A4 B8 2.0T
• Audi A5 B8 2.0T
• Audi Q5 2.0T
• Audi TT Mk2 2.0T
Volkswagen Models • Volkswagen EOS 2.0T
• Volkswagen Golf Mk5 GTI 2.0T
• Volkswagen Jetta Mk5 2.0T
• Volkswagen Passat B6 2.0T
• Volkswagen Tiguan 2.0T

MikekiM@PureMS

06A 906 283 E is the correct one for your car.
There's an ohm test you can perform on the valve to test if it's correct.

vtraudt

I check Ohm on the AEB if have: both show 27 Ohm. I read the spec is 25-35 Ohm.

Also, if not energized, the 'long leg' should be sealed (cannot blow through).

Does anyone know what the differences are between the "E" and the "F" below? The frequency is controlled by the ECU. Only difference I can see is the size of the orifice in the compressor leg and the overall inside diameter of all legs (in other words, how much air flow does the valve allow for a given open/close frequency).

vtraudt

update: the 'crazy' boost I experienced was caused by the (hard to see) rip in the line from the N75 to the wastegate actuator.

With the defect, no air was getting from the compressor cover (via N75) to the wastegate, which then stays shut (and boost goes to whatever the turbo can squeeze out (NOT good for the turbo!)

Reverse test: disconnect the N75 electrical connector, and the compressor pressure goes ALWAYS to the wastegate. The resulting boost pressure is then only determined by the spring force of the actuator (I assume that is the way 'limp mode' is activated: just not sending any power to the N75 (which connects the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator in 'no power' state).