Water pump locked up...
04-14-2011, 09:22 PM
#1
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Water pump locked up...
The water pump failed my 2000 2.8. I even found a half way destroyed ball bearing once I got the timing covers off.
Is there any chance that when the water pump failed that it caused cams to jump timing? The teeth on the belt look to be in good shape. Although there are some rubber filings under the drivers side cam.
Both of the cam gears seem to be equal. The ears on the cams are level.
Is there any chance that when the water pump failed that it caused cams to jump timing? The teeth on the belt look to be in good shape. Although there are some rubber filings under the drivers side cam.
Both of the cam gears seem to be equal. The ears on the cams are level.
04-15-2011, 02:55 AM
#2
It's possible the belt jumped. It depends on how quickly you stopped driving. You'll find out once you get the pin installed.
BTW, the loose ***** usually come from a failed idler wheel, no the pump. It might be there from a previous failure...or you might have more than one problem.
Just be sure to do the whole job. Get the tools, replace all the timing associated parts and all the related seals.
BTW, the loose ***** usually come from a failed idler wheel, no the pump. It might be there from a previous failure...or you might have more than one problem.
Just be sure to do the whole job. Get the tools, replace all the timing associated parts and all the related seals.
04-15-2011, 05:22 AM
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It's possible the belt jumped. It depends on how quickly you stopped driving. You'll find out once you get the pin installed.
BTW, the loose ***** usually come from a failed idler wheel, no the pump. It might be there from a previous failure...or you might have more than one problem.
Just be sure to do the whole job. Get the tools, replace all the timing associated parts and all the related seals.
BTW, the loose ***** usually come from a failed idler wheel, no the pump. It might be there from a previous failure...or you might have more than one problem.
Just be sure to do the whole job. Get the tools, replace all the timing associated parts and all the related seals.
I ordered the blauparts.com enhanced kit and the tools.
The ball bearings were stuck in the massive amounts of caked oil / road grim. It's been leaking for a long long while.
When you say pin you mean the tools that lock the timing in place?
Thanks!
04-16-2011, 07:35 PM
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if you're leaking oil out your valve covers and/or cam tensioner gaskets, there's a good chance you should service your crankcase breather system too. It clogs up and overpressures abound. Search for "pcv" and "suction pump" on the site. Otherwise, all those new gaskets may start leaking again real soon.
04-21-2011, 05:32 PM
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Well, it looks like it jumped timing. I figured I should be posting in the engine specific forum....
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...0#post24134430
I guess the question is can I just remove the timing belt and use the cam locking bars to realign the camshafts?
Smoothjimmo - thanks for the breather system advice!
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...0#post24134430
I guess the question is can I just remove the timing belt and use the cam locking bars to realign the camshafts?
Smoothjimmo - thanks for the breather system advice!
04-21-2011, 05:51 PM
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You could, but don't you also have a water pump to change? At this point, I'd change everything....water pump, tensioner, idler pulley, belt. Cripes since you have to be in there, change everything that could kill your engine!
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04-21-2011, 06:18 PM
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04-22-2011, 06:53 AM
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My timing belt (1996, 2.8 12V) broke (too high tension), but engine was idle, no damage.
Can you rotate the engine by hand (remove plugs, turn crank) carefully without feeling it binding?
Then Blaupart (get the tool kit rental with the locking bar) and change all out.
I decided NOT to remove the crank seal, since mine was bone dry and there is a chance to damage the key.
I had the valve covers off (but now new gasket), so I just used my trusted high temp (copper color/red) RTV sealant. Worked fine.
My vac lines were all brittle, so I replace (finally found the 3.5mm ID, OEM textile covered ones; now have plenty of length).
With you sludge: I started a desludging (mild method) and added 1 quart of Rislone, will change oil in 2k, then do again. See other methods below.
Ditto a good seafoam (probably best method for intake).
---
Saved from other post:
Method One
It is called the "TwoTwisty Flush" Several Miata guys came up with this technique to quiet the valvetrain on the older Miatas.
First drain all the oil as if you were doing an oil change and replace the filter, (use a cheap one, it will not be on there for long). Now fill the crank case with one quart of 50 weight oil and the rest of the fill with Dextron ATF. The Dextron contains lots of detergents and has about a 15w viscosity. The 50 weight adds enough viscosity to keep the engine safe. Now crank the engine and let it IDLE for TWO HOURS. NO LOAD ON THE ENGINE!!! At the end of the two hours, drain out the oil and replace it with whatever quality syn oil the you use.
Method Two -
Just before you get ready to change you oil, drain out 1 quart of the oil and replace it with either kerosene, diesel or LC20. CRANK THE ENGINE AND RUN IT AT IDLE FOR 20 MINUTES, NO LOAD, NO REVVING!!! After the twenty minutes have elapsed, perform a normal oil change with your usual qulaity syn oil and filter.
The last method is what I did right before I started my AutoRx treatment.
Drain all the oil from your engine, leave the filter in place. Now fill your crankcase until it is overflowing with diesel fuel. DO NOT START THE ENGINE FOR ANY REASON!!! Now leave the engine overnight. Next morning, drain all the diesel from the engine, though the oil drain. My AEB took nearly 5 gallons of diesel to fill up. When I drain the diesel out, it was very dark, like strong iced tea. The diesel when it went in was clear.
I let the engine sit draining until afternoon. I replaced the oil filter with a cheapy and put the recommended amount of oil back in. (I used the cheapest stuff that I could find, because it is only going to be there for 20 minutes). Run the engine at idle for 20 minutes, do another oil and filter change to start the AutoRx treatment.
Since doing this, i have had absolutely no problems with my engine. Gas mileage has gone up, valvetrain noise is gone, oil presssure is were it needs to be. YMMV
----
Another post I saved:
Not all those Ideas are bad.
It's a known mechanic trick to use ATF oil in your crankcase oil, since it's got a very high concentration of detergent.
Diesel is also another trick used and also seems to work. (But using that oil instead of over filling it and letting sit there, pointless as the cleaning process need to be dynamic, in motion, so the shearing will occur and break sludge particules) Kerosene is a no-no! It's a carbon based molecule, so it can and will dissolve oil, *BUT!* This will not do what you think. I used that stuff to clean high precision bearing sealed with packaged oil for the shipping. The kerosene will dilute the oil before dissolving any sludge. Also I'm not sure your seals will like it, Kerosene dry rubber.
Do 2 Auto RX or Rislone back to back, 3000km + Rislone with another 3000km with Rislone, and you'll most likely be done with the sludge for a while. Also it's cheap and know to work.
The method listed above are quick flush and might clog your oil feed line or return line... and create engine starvation and damage your engine. A slow clean is safe.
Also use 5w-40 oil from now on. It work very well with our V6's (0w-40 also work well since 0w it not zero, only a lower value below 5w-)
***************
Can you rotate the engine by hand (remove plugs, turn crank) carefully without feeling it binding?
Then Blaupart (get the tool kit rental with the locking bar) and change all out.
I decided NOT to remove the crank seal, since mine was bone dry and there is a chance to damage the key.
I had the valve covers off (but now new gasket), so I just used my trusted high temp (copper color/red) RTV sealant. Worked fine.
My vac lines were all brittle, so I replace (finally found the 3.5mm ID, OEM textile covered ones; now have plenty of length).
With you sludge: I started a desludging (mild method) and added 1 quart of Rislone, will change oil in 2k, then do again. See other methods below.
Ditto a good seafoam (probably best method for intake).
---
Saved from other post:
Method One
It is called the "TwoTwisty Flush" Several Miata guys came up with this technique to quiet the valvetrain on the older Miatas.
First drain all the oil as if you were doing an oil change and replace the filter, (use a cheap one, it will not be on there for long). Now fill the crank case with one quart of 50 weight oil and the rest of the fill with Dextron ATF. The Dextron contains lots of detergents and has about a 15w viscosity. The 50 weight adds enough viscosity to keep the engine safe. Now crank the engine and let it IDLE for TWO HOURS. NO LOAD ON THE ENGINE!!! At the end of the two hours, drain out the oil and replace it with whatever quality syn oil the you use.
Method Two -
Just before you get ready to change you oil, drain out 1 quart of the oil and replace it with either kerosene, diesel or LC20. CRANK THE ENGINE AND RUN IT AT IDLE FOR 20 MINUTES, NO LOAD, NO REVVING!!! After the twenty minutes have elapsed, perform a normal oil change with your usual qulaity syn oil and filter.
The last method is what I did right before I started my AutoRx treatment.
Drain all the oil from your engine, leave the filter in place. Now fill your crankcase until it is overflowing with diesel fuel. DO NOT START THE ENGINE FOR ANY REASON!!! Now leave the engine overnight. Next morning, drain all the diesel from the engine, though the oil drain. My AEB took nearly 5 gallons of diesel to fill up. When I drain the diesel out, it was very dark, like strong iced tea. The diesel when it went in was clear.
I let the engine sit draining until afternoon. I replaced the oil filter with a cheapy and put the recommended amount of oil back in. (I used the cheapest stuff that I could find, because it is only going to be there for 20 minutes). Run the engine at idle for 20 minutes, do another oil and filter change to start the AutoRx treatment.
Since doing this, i have had absolutely no problems with my engine. Gas mileage has gone up, valvetrain noise is gone, oil presssure is were it needs to be. YMMV
----
Another post I saved:
Not all those Ideas are bad.
It's a known mechanic trick to use ATF oil in your crankcase oil, since it's got a very high concentration of detergent.
Diesel is also another trick used and also seems to work. (But using that oil instead of over filling it and letting sit there, pointless as the cleaning process need to be dynamic, in motion, so the shearing will occur and break sludge particules) Kerosene is a no-no! It's a carbon based molecule, so it can and will dissolve oil, *BUT!* This will not do what you think. I used that stuff to clean high precision bearing sealed with packaged oil for the shipping. The kerosene will dilute the oil before dissolving any sludge. Also I'm not sure your seals will like it, Kerosene dry rubber.
Do 2 Auto RX or Rislone back to back, 3000km + Rislone with another 3000km with Rislone, and you'll most likely be done with the sludge for a while. Also it's cheap and know to work.
The method listed above are quick flush and might clog your oil feed line or return line... and create engine starvation and damage your engine. A slow clean is safe.
Also use 5w-40 oil from now on. It work very well with our V6's (0w-40 also work well since 0w it not zero, only a lower value below 5w-)
***************
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