Slow acceleration (1.8t quattro tiptronic)
05-02-2013, 06:27 PM
#23
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Well I removed and cleaned both the pancake valve thing and the n75 with MAF cleaner. Also cleaned the throttle control module with maf cleaner(that instrument that connects right on the side of the throttle body). I've noticed some difference. My boost gauge is now reading about 6-7~ psi. So I think my boost problem is fixed. It's just still slow to respond from a stop.
05-03-2013, 07:13 AM
#25
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I would start by replacing the throttle position sensor, that code is pretty definitive. For the other one, check your relays. Sometimes you can swap with an identical one from another system and see if your problem moves.
05-04-2013, 09:04 AM
#26
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Needs a throttle body, they always go bad on these. You have a boost issue, start by removing the vacuum line from the DV valve, and trying to pull a vacuum or just use your lips on a hose and suck, if the DV does not hold vacuum, its junk.
12-04-2016, 11:46 PM
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SLUGGISH STARTS AND ACCELERATION
I've been experience hesitation in acceleration and sluggish starts. I turned off the traction control (ESP button), and it seems to have fixed the problem. I live in Southern California, so luckily I don't really need traction control.
04-03-2021, 01:59 PM
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High pressure fuel pump change that an cam follower
My 2008 audi a4 b7 Quattro did same it was the high flow fule pump filter or ur regular fuel pump
Hey there, I have read many posts on here and other forums about sluggish acceleration and I'm trying to get some direct answers and/or insight on my issues. Basically, the problem is when at a stop, my car moves SO SLOW. Snailing along until turbo begins to spool and I still accelerate slowly. I understand my car only has 150hp and it's definitely no S4, but I know when something is wrong. It's been a real damper on my mileage and self-esteem. My A4 is completely stock. No aftermarket diverter valve or anything, which i am aware I should replace ASAP.
Anyways, I'm thinking it's a boost leak. What are the most common areas to keep an eye out? I heard the diverter valve is common to fail. Before I do a boost leak test, I'm trying to do anything that could solve or make the problem apparent. My first step is cleaning the MAF. I currently do not have a CEL so I'm hoping if i clean it it'll give me a correct reading. After that I will proceed to get a boost gauge to test for a leak. If a leak is apparent via gauge, I will run the test. If not, should I run the test anyways? Say I have no leak, what should my next step be? Should I see if the throttle body (drive by wire) needs correcting? Is it possible my car is stuck on a lower fuel mapping therefore I am running rich?
the sluggish acceleration seems to get worse by the weather. The colder it is, the longer it takes to get up to speed. This issue made me believe it could've been the transmission. I've been considering getting it flushed and fluid replaced, but I've heard the fluid lasts a life time. Does anyone have correct information on that?
1. Clean MAF
2. Boost gauge test
2b. Boost leak test
3. Throttle body.
Is there anything else I should do before or after any of these steps?
Anyways, I'm thinking it's a boost leak. What are the most common areas to keep an eye out? I heard the diverter valve is common to fail. Before I do a boost leak test, I'm trying to do anything that could solve or make the problem apparent. My first step is cleaning the MAF. I currently do not have a CEL so I'm hoping if i clean it it'll give me a correct reading. After that I will proceed to get a boost gauge to test for a leak. If a leak is apparent via gauge, I will run the test. If not, should I run the test anyways? Say I have no leak, what should my next step be? Should I see if the throttle body (drive by wire) needs correcting? Is it possible my car is stuck on a lower fuel mapping therefore I am running rich?
the sluggish acceleration seems to get worse by the weather. The colder it is, the longer it takes to get up to speed. This issue made me believe it could've been the transmission. I've been considering getting it flushed and fluid replaced, but I've heard the fluid lasts a life time. Does anyone have correct information on that?
1. Clean MAF
2. Boost gauge test
2b. Boost leak test
3. Throttle body.
Is there anything else I should do before or after any of these steps?
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