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Photo update of last 2-3 weeks: Some mounts, lighting, hood pins, and carnage..v v v v v v v

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Old 02-13-2009, 08:01 AM
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Default Yup! Vast majority have it glued/epoxied. There is old epoxy all over the front of my rebar from the

first time it was attached. Like I said, one good bottom out at school popped the epoxy loose, and the screw where the bumper/fender meet @ wheel well on each side. Actually shown here, if you look there is a little spot where screw went through Rieger, snapped the plastic when it broke off.

<img src="http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr309/Kingtr_2008/IMG_0047.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket">
Old 02-13-2009, 08:02 AM
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Default I would depressurize the hood shock when you get a chance... also add the factory hood bumpers...

The ones the screw into the hood on the underside, will be much easier to adjust than those rubber washers that are currently on the pins.
Old 02-13-2009, 08:08 AM
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Default Hood shock has been depressurized for about 1.5-2 years (per @wesome's idea). The slight warp

occurred from it having been used (pressurized) for X amount of time prior to my purchase.. So I've got that part solved.

As far as the factory hood bumpers, do they attach to the hood or the radiator support/front fender corner?! The body shop did a pretty good job, and I currently do not need to adjust the height, but may need or wish to in the future... Either way I concur the rubber things over the pins are far from adjustable or ideal.
Old 02-13-2009, 08:09 AM
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that hood fits nice
Old 02-13-2009, 08:17 AM
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Default Thanks, its getting better. I've made a few changes in the last few weeks which has closed gaps

some, not entirely (drivers side).

The hood pins help(ed) pull the driver's side corner down, and I undid the fender bolts and tried to push it in a touch at the front (achieved like 1/2cm give or take). So those two little things have helped w/ my fitment issues.

Another thing is that its not just the hood that wasn't lining up, the fender has been hit/repaired and isn't perfect and the bumper is left in "earthquake" mode --&gt; so it can take some hits/bottom outs.
Old 02-13-2009, 08:23 AM
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Default Yup, mine has 2 inches of bumper room that'd be hit first, then cheap mesh wire/grill..

Either way, it will not stand up against something big (or small --&gt; like a 2 ft snow/slush bank)

I just hope I don't have any leaks (@wesome's FMIC leak and result comes to mind and scares me). I will bend back the little fins so it is aesthetically acceptable, not much can do about the bottom tube though..
Old 02-13-2009, 08:33 AM
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How do you depressurize a shock? I wouldn't mind doing that. I just removed. works for trunk ones?
Old 02-13-2009, 08:50 AM
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Default Take a dremel with a cut-off blade and cut the base of the shock...

The gas and some oil will come out, then the piston will move freely...

I drilled a hole in the piston itself to insert a cotter pin to hold it in place when the hood is open.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2853509.phtml">Link to my post..</a></li></ul>
Old 02-13-2009, 09:37 AM
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Default Remove shock, place shock in plastic bag, drill it slow/carefully until it pops..

Pretty uneventful, w/out plastic bag you might get hit w/ oil/bit of fluid from inside the shock.

I popped mine down towards the bottom and then figured out the height I wanted the hood propped open at, measured how far the piston goes into the cylinder (closed to open pos), and drill through 1/2 inch below that point, then use a cotter pin to hold hood open, yank pin and clip it onto bottom of hood shock where it attaches to car for storage when hood is closed.


I measured mine: I drilled my hole for the cotter pin 2 1/8 inches down from where the sleeve/piston meet (common sense should tell you which end of the cylinder I'm talking about...) With a cotter pin here I have 35" of height between my radiator support and the bottom of the hood (front grill part) with the hood propped open.
Can grab pic if needed, but pretty straight forward.
Old 02-13-2009, 09:40 AM
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Default Beat me to it, I measured and had long response though!! I think it is easier to drill the hole in

the sleeve though.

If he measures down 2 1/8 inches, drills there, he is done! (insert cotter pin). 2 birds w/ one stone/spot to drill.

I thought about going through the piston but went sleeve route..


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