Not blowing hot air inside the cabin
02-10-2010, 07:57 PM
#11
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02-11-2010, 04:33 AM
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02-11-2010, 10:46 AM
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The flush works about 90% or more of the time, so I'm sure you'll be OK. When you search, be sure to learn how to "bleed" the system at the heater core hose connection. It's very important as some people will flush successfully but won't bleed properly and then it won't work. I would recommend you bleed and bleed and bleed to be sure air is all out.
02-11-2010, 10:47 AM
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Thank you. I looked at this post several times but didn't ever catch where this bleed hole was. Last night I went out and looked myself. I found it! It is on the left (out) hose on the top of the hose, towards the very end of the hose. The hole is about 1/16" in diameter and there is a white paint mark around it so that you can see it. I couldn't see mine because the clamp was on top of it. I was able to bleed the core for a second last night before my fingers froze and I had a little bit of heat this morning!!! Not quite as much as I'd like but I'll flush it soon and re-bleed and hope for the best!
02-15-2010, 10:02 AM
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Adding a couple of quick items for honki24...be sure to try the compressed air method when you flush the system, and I mean aggressive compressed air. That's what I did, and my local metric tech guy uses the same technique. Also, when you referred to "left side", I think you meant the view looking into the engine compartment...the hose with the hole is correctly the right side, as parts are tradtionally identified from the driver's seat perspective. As far as further ideas, I wonder if your thermostat is operating correctly. You could try putting a small piece of cardboard in front a portion of the radiator and test to see if heat output improves...just be careful of overheating the engine, and be sure to remove it when the warm weather returns. Of course, the best solution for a bad thermo is to replace it, but that's probably a $300 job. Note: If you are replacing your timing belt, that's the time to replace the thermostat, as it's then a simple job. vwdawg/audiphile1
02-22-2010, 09:42 AM
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Heater core
I have a 2002 A4 1.8 which had the heater core go cold. Used water pressure and a CLR soak (about 1 hour) and then "pulsed" the water pressure with a garden nozzle. You would not believe the scale I removed from the core. Reverse hoses and repeat until clean water only.
After flushing with clean water, prime the core with 50/50 G12 and water, reattach the hoses and you should be in business.
Mine works so well I can't turn the heat up past 68 -70 or it gets too hot.
After flushing with clean water, prime the core with 50/50 G12 and water, reattach the hoses and you should be in business.
Mine works so well I can't turn the heat up past 68 -70 or it gets too hot.
02-18-2015, 08:08 AM
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The heater core is actually inside your car, but it's behind all the dash stuff. It's a real PITA to replace. The coolant flush for the heater core is a good idea, however, you'll likely need to replace it at some point, just not now hopefully.
To flush the heater core:
1. The coolant hoses that are attached to the heater core are located under the hood. There is a plastic cover up by the fire wall (by windshield) that cover the batter and some other things. Remove this plastic cover and you'll see the battery with two coolant hoses next to it (closer to the driver side). These two hoses move coolant into and out of the heater core, which allows your cabin to receive warm air when the heater is on.
2. Disconnect both hoses and be prepared for a little coolant to leak out. To try and prevent this, drain some of your coolant. You can do this by removing the plastic grill at your driver side fog light. After you pull that off you'll see a red plastic piece. Use a flathead or a large phillips screwdriver to turn this red piece and you'll see coolant flow out. Close that valve after draining some of the coolant. Remember to put only the recommended (likely G12) coolant back in.
3. At this point, you a have a couple of options. Here's what I did which I think works best compared to everything else I've heard for flushes these heater cores. Go to a hardware store (like home depot) and by some tubing that will fit over the heater core connections. You can find the same size as the coolant pipe. Just measure the interior diameter of the coolant pipe before going to the store to make sure you get the right side. I would purchase about 8 feet of it. When you get home, cut that hose in two, with one piece being 3 ft and the other being 5 feet. The longer piece you can connect to either side of the heater core and let it hang over the car with something something ready to cash the flushing fluid (use an oil catcher or something). Be sure to put towels around that area to prevent splattering and also you'll want to cover your car so coolant doesn't get onto the paint. For the 3 foot hose, attach it to the other side of the heater core and than attach a funnel to the other end. This funnel is where you'll pour a cleaning solution that will flush your core.
4. For a cleaning solution, there are a lot of options. I found that OxyClean works the best. Also, use extremely hot water. Mix about 1/2 to 1 gallon and then pour into funnel, holding the funnel up in the air so gravity can do the work. Eventually, you'll begin see/hear fluid coming out the end of the other hose. After you complete this, switch the hoses at the heater core and do it all over again, going in the other direction.
5. When completed, I used an air compressor to blow-out the remaining gunk, which proved to be VERY advantageous, as a lot of gunk came out. Then, the last step to is flush again with only warm water to remove chemicals and any other lose gunk. Reattach factory hose, add coolant and start the engine. Let it run for about 10 minutes or until car temp is warm, turn on heater and hope for the best!
To flush the heater core:
1. The coolant hoses that are attached to the heater core are located under the hood. There is a plastic cover up by the fire wall (by windshield) that cover the batter and some other things. Remove this plastic cover and you'll see the battery with two coolant hoses next to it (closer to the driver side). These two hoses move coolant into and out of the heater core, which allows your cabin to receive warm air when the heater is on.
2. Disconnect both hoses and be prepared for a little coolant to leak out. To try and prevent this, drain some of your coolant. You can do this by removing the plastic grill at your driver side fog light. After you pull that off you'll see a red plastic piece. Use a flathead or a large phillips screwdriver to turn this red piece and you'll see coolant flow out. Close that valve after draining some of the coolant. Remember to put only the recommended (likely G12) coolant back in.
3. At this point, you a have a couple of options. Here's what I did which I think works best compared to everything else I've heard for flushes these heater cores. Go to a hardware store (like home depot) and by some tubing that will fit over the heater core connections. You can find the same size as the coolant pipe. Just measure the interior diameter of the coolant pipe before going to the store to make sure you get the right side. I would purchase about 8 feet of it. When you get home, cut that hose in two, with one piece being 3 ft and the other being 5 feet. The longer piece you can connect to either side of the heater core and let it hang over the car with something something ready to cash the flushing fluid (use an oil catcher or something). Be sure to put towels around that area to prevent splattering and also you'll want to cover your car so coolant doesn't get onto the paint. For the 3 foot hose, attach it to the other side of the heater core and than attach a funnel to the other end. This funnel is where you'll pour a cleaning solution that will flush your core.
4. For a cleaning solution, there are a lot of options. I found that OxyClean works the best. Also, use extremely hot water. Mix about 1/2 to 1 gallon and then pour into funnel, holding the funnel up in the air so gravity can do the work. Eventually, you'll begin see/hear fluid coming out the end of the other hose. After you complete this, switch the hoses at the heater core and do it all over again, going in the other direction.
5. When completed, I used an air compressor to blow-out the remaining gunk, which proved to be VERY advantageous, as a lot of gunk came out. Then, the last step to is flush again with only warm water to remove chemicals and any other lose gunk. Reattach factory hose, add coolant and start the engine. Let it run for about 10 minutes or until car temp is warm, turn on heater and hope for the best!
10-01-2017, 11:22 AM
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My 2005 audi a4 quattro 2.0 turbo heater motor
In my car when i turn on the heater you can hear it click and feel a little hot air but it is not strong and the motor does not move. Checked the fuses and they are fine
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