How do you get the lower rear control arm out?
03-07-2009, 04:37 PM
#1
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How do you get the lower rear control arm out?
I've tried loosening the rear subframe mount but even when I lever it down pretty hard I still can't get the bolt to slide out.
Also found out my ball-joint separator is not quite big enough to get the front lower control arm out.
So much for not too bad of a job.
dp
Also found out my ball-joint separator is not quite big enough to get the front lower control arm out.
So much for not too bad of a job.
dp
03-07-2009, 05:42 PM
#5
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Ok, take a deep breath....
You'll need to have the front of the car jacked up... jack stands on the unibody, not on the front subframe. You'll need to unbolt both of the large bolts that hold the subframe in where the DTS would mount, then carefully use a large prybar to pivot the subframe down enough for bolt to clear the fuel lines on the passenger side. One big reason not to just use a BFH like forum jockey Nate recommends. Then again, I bet he's never done control arms himself.
Anyway, it's almost easier with 2 people unless you can keep enough pressure on the prybar with one arm while unscrewing the bolt out of the subframe. After this you'll have a bunch more space to work with to get the balljoint end out. Use penetrating oil! Also, not that the subframe actually has 2 sets of holes that the lower rear control arm can get positioned into... make sure to put the new control arm into the same set of holes, or the alignment will be quite off. :-) Good luck.
Anyway, it's almost easier with 2 people unless you can keep enough pressure on the prybar with one arm while unscrewing the bolt out of the subframe. After this you'll have a bunch more space to work with to get the balljoint end out. Use penetrating oil! Also, not that the subframe actually has 2 sets of holes that the lower rear control arm can get positioned into... make sure to put the new control arm into the same set of holes, or the alignment will be quite off. :-) Good luck.
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03-07-2009, 06:12 PM
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Because using a BFH for a job that can AND SHOULD be done with the right tool is stupid.
Using a BFH on those parts is a really great way to stress all the other components and possibly tweak the castings enough to cause problems either immediately or down the line.
It's just plain stupid to use a BFH if it's not needed at all.
It's just plain stupid to use a BFH if it's not needed at all.
03-07-2009, 06:34 PM
#10
Keeper of the Cash
You're no where near a fuel line at the ball joint you know. I only used a 2 lbs mallet
and tapped the fitting out.
Or use a tie rod fork and pry it out that way.
Or use a tie rod fork and pry it out that way.