Engine won't shut off, not ignition switch!
10-27-2013, 07:12 AM
#11
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Nope as the switch was fine before the fire, I`m hoping it wasn't that and so for now I am concentrating on other possible causes. I need to check out the central locking circuits and also grounding issues.
10-27-2013, 07:53 AM
#12
10-29-2013, 11:19 AM
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Just taken the car for a 186 mile run, I`m pleased to say the car ran ok.
I had some fun getting gas in the tank prior to commencing my journey, as the petrol/gas flap was not unlocked. I popped the trunk and managed to locate the middle white plastic tab and after some fiddling managed to pull back the locking pin and release the flap and fill up. (was so glad I read that tip while perusing the forum)
I`ve also messed up the the immobiliser (fortunately I`d read something managed to effect a dirty fix). I had decided to try and secure the boot while the battery was connected, it made a beep noise when I locked the trunk with the key and I thought "good that seems to have secured the trunk lid" but on jumping in the drivers seat there was an car shaped flashing amber warning icon lit. The car fired and ran for about 2 seconds and then the engine died. Investigating this confirmed that it was immobiliser related. Disconnecting the battery leads I touched them together for 30 secs and on trying to start the car it was successful (so much for having a unrecognised uncoded key)
I was so pleased to be able to start the engine as I`d envisaged having to scrap the car sooner rather than later.
However now when I try to lock the trunk (with the battery connected) the immobiliser once again activates the flashing immobiliser warning in the instrument cluster rev counter also it lights up a bevvy of red warning lights. As it was raining I popped the hood and disconnected the positive battery lead. Something else needing investigating though maybe it gives some clues where to look ?
I had some fun getting gas in the tank prior to commencing my journey, as the petrol/gas flap was not unlocked. I popped the trunk and managed to locate the middle white plastic tab and after some fiddling managed to pull back the locking pin and release the flap and fill up. (was so glad I read that tip while perusing the forum)
I`ve also messed up the the immobiliser (fortunately I`d read something managed to effect a dirty fix). I had decided to try and secure the boot while the battery was connected, it made a beep noise when I locked the trunk with the key and I thought "good that seems to have secured the trunk lid" but on jumping in the drivers seat there was an car shaped flashing amber warning icon lit. The car fired and ran for about 2 seconds and then the engine died. Investigating this confirmed that it was immobiliser related. Disconnecting the battery leads I touched them together for 30 secs and on trying to start the car it was successful (so much for having a unrecognised uncoded key)
I was so pleased to be able to start the engine as I`d envisaged having to scrap the car sooner rather than later.
However now when I try to lock the trunk (with the battery connected) the immobiliser once again activates the flashing immobiliser warning in the instrument cluster rev counter also it lights up a bevvy of red warning lights. As it was raining I popped the hood and disconnected the positive battery lead. Something else needing investigating though maybe it gives some clues where to look ?
11-02-2013, 01:18 AM
#15
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Car got me back home safely after 500 miles. It seems that operating the passenger door lock with a key also activates the immobiliser so I need to remember not to do that, and I`m having trouble locking the trunk (maybe I need to do that before I stall the car )? Revs are a bit low when coming up to junctions and it stalled once, but now can compensate with the gas pedal, though I wouldn't like to have to sit in rush hour traffic. New job on Monday the car is gassed levels checked and up just needs loading up and shes ready to go the 150 miles to work. I`m going to drive up in the daylight Sunday afternoon so I can settle into my temp accommodation and have some contingency time if needed.
11-08-2013, 08:49 AM
#16
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Car got me back home safely after 500 miles. It seems that operating the passenger door lock with a key also activates the immobiliser so I need to remember not to do that, and I`m having trouble locking the trunk (maybe I need to do that before I stall the car )? Revs are a bit low when coming up to junctions and it stalled once, but now can compensate with the gas pedal, though I wouldn't like to have to sit in rush hour traffic. New job on Monday the car is gassed levels checked and up just needs loading up and shes ready to go the 150 miles to work. I`m going to drive up in the daylight Sunday afternoon so I can settle into my temp accommodation and have some contingency time if needed.
11-24-2013, 02:23 AM
#17
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Update
I popped both n/s door cards off to take off the motors and manually wind the windows up so I could take off the tape covering the gap between glass and top of door (the rear door glass dropped about 2 inches when I first started the car after the drivers door fire. The front door breakable window plastic clips had previously broken and disintegrated and the temporary wood support moved and the glass dropped down 1/2 inch ).
Doing this job meant I could look at the indoor wiring. All the wiring I could see looked ok. I`ve now done over a 1000 miles in the car, I`ve found a local guy who specialises in Audi and VW and we will put it on vagcom and get the car codes next weekend to see if there is any clue why the dam thing wont switch off
Looks like the my replacement refurbed steering rack is on its way out as there is some play in it and I`m getting lots of pressure from the other half to get a better car, so will need to keep and eye on the steering. The front tyres treads are getting low and the interior fan is playing up so I might need a replacement soon.
Window bodge on front passenger window was to clamp the glass when the window was fully up and drill 2 holes in metalwork and screw self tapping screws underneath the metal clamps and hence to stop the glass moving downwards ...simples
I popped both n/s door cards off to take off the motors and manually wind the windows up so I could take off the tape covering the gap between glass and top of door (the rear door glass dropped about 2 inches when I first started the car after the drivers door fire. The front door breakable window plastic clips had previously broken and disintegrated and the temporary wood support moved and the glass dropped down 1/2 inch ).
Doing this job meant I could look at the indoor wiring. All the wiring I could see looked ok. I`ve now done over a 1000 miles in the car, I`ve found a local guy who specialises in Audi and VW and we will put it on vagcom and get the car codes next weekend to see if there is any clue why the dam thing wont switch off
Looks like the my replacement refurbed steering rack is on its way out as there is some play in it and I`m getting lots of pressure from the other half to get a better car, so will need to keep and eye on the steering. The front tyres treads are getting low and the interior fan is playing up so I might need a replacement soon.
Window bodge on front passenger window was to clamp the glass when the window was fully up and drill 2 holes in metalwork and screw self tapping screws underneath the metal clamps and hence to stop the glass moving downwards ...simples
09-12-2020, 02:05 PM
#18
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im having the same issues except pressing the brake has no effect on my car turning off. I looked around the whole car and couldnt find any cutt, corroded wires anywhere im stumped. you said the brake light switch was your issue, the switch on the brake pedal?
07-26-2021, 01:14 PM
#19
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Same problem
Apologies on the late update! From doing some further online research into the brake/transmission system's components, I had the shop look at the shift interlock.
The shop decided that, as turbo510 suggested (great call!), that brake light switch needed replacing. Knock on wood, it's now been 3 months and we haven't seen the behavior again. It had gone some long stretches without appearing before but it was getting very frequent this summer. ~$50 to replace and 2 years to diagnose.
Turbo510, no add-ons are on the car, it completely BTO stock. The car is driven Boston area city commuting every day so the wear and tear on that system isn't light.
Of course now it is in for replacing two airbag modules and the catalytic converter & O2 sensors. Not $50 repairs for sure.
~B
The shop decided that, as turbo510 suggested (great call!), that brake light switch needed replacing. Knock on wood, it's now been 3 months and we haven't seen the behavior again. It had gone some long stretches without appearing before but it was getting very frequent this summer. ~$50 to replace and 2 years to diagnose.
Turbo510, no add-ons are on the car, it completely BTO stock. The car is driven Boston area city commuting every day so the wear and tear on that system isn't light.
Of course now it is in for replacing two airbag modules and the catalytic converter & O2 sensors. Not $50 repairs for sure.
~B
05-23-2023, 08:32 AM
#20
I apologize for bringing up this old thread. I had a similar issue with my car, it turns out that I had a malfunctioning fuel pump relay, the relay was short circuit and causing the current to still flow in the fuel pump. I did a lot of searches on this issue and came on in depth article which may be worth reading, search for " Car keeps Running After Engine Turned Off on YOUCANIC" and you will see an article that goes over common causes and possible fixes, you can read about it yourself. I hope this information can assist someone else with a similar issue.