Greyhound Guy

So the car is misfiring on wot. VAGCOM says rear sensor. I think I am going to do front and back sensors. Where do you guys get yours? It seems everytime I find one I can't find the other.

I'm also thinking of getting the universal and splicing. Some even come with waterproof caps. Anyone done this before?

shawfm

I have used the splice ones in the past, but that was way past. I haven't needed to replace one recently. However, a universal Bosch sensor is not a bad way to go.

4Driver4

Universal sensors are not universal. Buy the right sensor.

Greyhound Guy

Please explain.

4Driver4

O2 sensors are like spark plugs. Just because they may look the same does not mean that they are. You need to buy the right sensor for your application.

shawfm

There is nothing that specifically states (from reliable sources) that universal oxygen sensors are bad. If you look at the Bosch site for heated sensor read what you will from it.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Produc...tedSensors.htm

dorsal900

The rear sensor has nothing to do with the misfire - it's only purpose is to ensure that the catalytic converter is doing its job, the front controls the fuel trim. That said, what error are you getting for the rear sensor? If it is a "heater malfunction" code, then you do need to replace it to turn off the Check Engine light (required for emissions testing in Illinois).

I have successfully used Bosch sensors designed for other applications spliced in on my 1996 A4 V6: a 1992 Ford Mustang 5.0 three wire sensor for the fronts, and a Chrysler Concorde V6 four-wire sensor for the rears. These sensors are actually cheaper than the Bosch "Universal" sensors - the key is in how you splice them (very carefully!).

Greyhound Guy

I can't remember the code off hand. I thought it was the stage 3 kit in the beginning making the light come on then it was on all the time. It's hard to have time to troubleshoot right now. Does anyone know what address to read on vagcom and what the values should be?

4Driver4

OK. Go ahead. Good luck. :-)

dorsal900

You don't need to look at any measurement blocks if there is a fault that illuminates the Check Engine Light. This should only take a few minutes max.