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With all of the modifications designed to make my car perform more like a sports car,
it's time to address the drivetrain. It's hard to believe a small piece of hardware that costs less that $50 would make much of a difference. Today ECS Tuning made me a believer.  Props to Alex a.k.a. Lemieux@Curbside for scoring some time on the lift. 82 Autowerks. 3195 Route 82 Haycreek Rd Geigertown, PA 19523 (610) 913-6505 Alex is into HP of all sorts!  Why the ECS kit?: I chose the ECS brand because it comes with a new bolt. This is important since the factory bolt is a stretch bolt. It should be replaced once it's been removed. The ECS kit includes a new stretch bolt of OEM specification. Cost of the kit is $39.95, shipping is free. Details from the ECS site: The ECS Dogbone Mount Insert Kit works with the OEM rubber bushing to provide a better more rigid connection between the transmission mount and subframe. Less movement in the system will result in smoother shifts and less engine movement under heavy acceleration. Made of a 70A Torque durometer polyurethane. Kit includes dogbone insert, retaining washer, centering washer and new stretch bolt. Instructions: There is nothing tricky about the installation. Time: 1/2 hour.  My Notes: I have the DSG transmission. When my car was bone stock, I would feel a surprising jolt while shifting between lower gearing. This was especially noticed for the first few minutes, while the engine is still cold. But even when warm, the shift between 1st to 2nd & 2nd to 3rd feels a bit rough when my right foot is feeling heavy. Needless to say, once my car was awarded with more horsepower, this problem only intensified. The ECS Dogbone Mount Insert Kit has dramatically reduced the movement of the engine during shifts. It virtually eliminated the troublesome low gear issue I described earlier. In fact, shifting throughout all of the gears, now feels amazing. The most dramatic improvement is when I launch the car. It feels like a completely different vehicle. Instead of feeling a very small but noticeable jolt and lag, the car just launches painlessly. I know you're curious about vibration at idle. During the hour long ride from 82 Autoworks to my home, I did not experience any unfavorable activity, of any kind. In fact, I love the way my car feels now. Both at idle and especially while shifting. I can only imagine how much this kit would improve the drivability of a manual transmission A3. This mod is a must for all enthusiasts because of the performance, cost, and ease of installation. Link to ECS DogBone Kit. I went with the black kit. It's also available in red.  More photos of what is included with the ECS kit:      I go out of my way to share info on modifications that I believe in. You will not be disappointed with the ESC Dogbone Mount Insert Kit. ECS Tuning esales@ecstuning.com  ECS Dogbone Mount Insert Kit 2006 Audi A3 Tourque Arm Insert. Dogbone Insert. Dog Bone Insert. //// sig:
How many inserts will I need for a 6-speed manual?
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with very similar results. Your's was much cheaper though! I've driven it a couple of hundred miles in very wet weather with the stock pirelli's back on for the winter. The distinctive wheel hop under spirted accerlation has been significantly reduced. I have exprienced no addtional vibration at all. I may try some of VF's other mounts, but I wanted to phase it in to reduce the potential for unwanted vibrations.
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in order for a stretch bolt to work, it needs to be torqued to a specified amount (in this case, 74 lbs-ft) and *then* given an additional turn of exactly a specified number of degrees. This last turn should be done with a regular socket or wrench, not a torque wrench. Since this specifies 90 degrees, you can pretty much eyeball it. In other cases where a bolt may specify anywhere from 60 to 120 degrees, you need to use an angle torque gauge like a Snap-On #TA360.
Angle-torqueing should *never* be done with a bolt that wasn't designed as a stretch bolt, and stretch bolts should never be reused - they are a one-time, disposable fastener that deforms upon installation. Reuse will not achieve the desired holding strength, and runs a much greater risk of the bolt breaking since the elasticity of the shank has been exceeded.
I have a manual, so that might be the key difference...
I installed and uninstalled mine three times. I wanted to truly get a feel for the car with and without it. I ended up leaving it uninstalled. There was not a big benefit of having it installed I felt. There was a huge negative to having it installed though - when backing up the car would resonate/vibrate quite a bit when the engine was loaded up and you started backing up. For me, this was just not worth having installed. And - a note to would-be installers. Use WD-40 for a lubricant, it works best. Silicone spray doesn't work as well. Since I installed and uninstalled it numerous times, I figured out what works and doesn't work so well. Also - it's a PITA to installed, requires wedging rubber into tight rubber slots. So lubricant is your best friend. And, it's even more of a PITA to uninstall. If you try to uninstall it you will swear many profane words. It's beyond a knuckle-buster.
any tips for removing it. you mention it's a PITA. I need to reinstall mine in the proper fashion.
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It looked like you'd just have to take the plate off, put the washer in the middle of the insert, and reinstall the plate.
2000 A4 Avant 1.8TQMS
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But pull hard.
REally, it's very slow and tedious to remove, more slow and tedious than when you installed it. Hopefully you used lots of lube, and hopefully it hasn't dried all up on you. I used a pair of channel lock pliers and a flat head screwdriver (large handled one good for prying). I started the screwdriver under the lip to get it exposed and start to slowly wedge down near each little round extrusion, and not the funny 1/2-circle shaped one. The trick is to apply a constant force and let the rubber slowly slide out. If you pull too hard you will rip it up. Don't pull enough and nothing happens. Pull firmly over a long period of time and it will slowly come out. I would rock the insert back and forth. Drop one 1/3 of it down 1/4 to 3/8", then work it from another angle, and so on. It takes a long time to remove it, so be very patient. Take breaks if you have to, because your arms get sore from the constant pulling force that you have to exert.
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However, I did find that adding the front bushing helped eliminate vibrations caused by the torque insert.
Dave
Each time you remove it, it ends up in a few more pieces. After removing it the third time it was completely trashed. If it didn't vibrate in reverse I probably would have left it in. But if I had to do it again, I'd skip on it.
want to communicate again, this mod makes a huge difference. I feel it ALL the time. This is the way it should feel from the factory.
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Did mine last night and drove from PA to MA today. Very noticable improvement in "slop" reduction, and I'm thrilled that it doesn't vibrate AT ALL.
2000 A4 Avant 1.8TQMS
Ryan has mad skillz.
Be sure to buy a new bolt as len suggested. Dave
look at the photo. the red large bushing, has the silver washer inside the lip. then the big round circle washer goes on top. then the bolt
the way mine looked in the photo (that I removed, so nobody copies it), the washer appears on top of the larger washer which is backwards. //// sig:
About an hour afterward, I read on another audi forum, a post on the dogbone insert and the question was asked about the small washer. I realized my mistake and called ECS and told them what happened and they told me to correct the mistake They didn't think I'd need a new stretch bolt. I corrected it and i've been checking it once a week and it has not loosened at all so, don't worry about it. When I corrected it, the rubber was deformed a little but the washer fit fine and it works great.Enjoy.
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It's fairly obvious though. I already told Judge the answer too ;-)
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