RHD, 2.0T, QUATTRO & Oettinger
09-11-2006, 09:38 PM
#12
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Splitter is great....
Takes a little extra to get it in place.
being the first kit in Australia, we had it painted after the test fit & then did the rest ourselves. Unless you are experienced, its best to let a shop do it.
Putting the splitter in the recessed position means you have to cut slots in the lower part and slide it through - a little tricky after its painted, but not impossible.
Will get some more pics soon.
being the first kit in Australia, we had it painted after the test fit & then did the rest ourselves. Unless you are experienced, its best to let a shop do it.
Putting the splitter in the recessed position means you have to cut slots in the lower part and slide it through - a little tricky after its painted, but not impossible.
Will get some more pics soon.
09-11-2006, 09:40 PM
#13
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The 2.0T and the 3.2 drive very differently and really depends on what you want out of the car.
I have a 3.2 and recently had the chance to drive a 2.0T loaner for about 2 weeks (allroad in the shop for bi-turbo failure). The 2.0T is so much more willing to play than the 3.2, whereas the 3.2 is great for getting around town. I think a lot of the people on this forum prefer the 2.0T because they tend to be young, they want to be more involved with the car, and can't justify spending a huge chunk of their income on the 3.2. I guess our preferences are an indication of our age.
09-12-2006, 07:44 AM
#14
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the install was pretty straight forward...
we were the first US install. Didnt bother with a pre-fit (never had an issue with Oettinger before) but the paint shop baked the kit so it took a little "convincing" in certain areas.
note to anyone buying the kit. make damn sure your shop doesnt bake the kit. MAKE SURE THEY UNDERSTAND THIS!
note to anyone buying the kit. make damn sure your shop doesnt bake the kit. MAKE SURE THEY UNDERSTAND THIS!
09-12-2006, 02:16 PM
#17
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baking...
Yes, we got the painting instructions (last page of the install instructions - only page in English!) - good idea to give this to your paint shop:
Guidelines for painting OETTINGER auto body parts
A visual improvement of the parts and of the vehicle as a whole is achieved by painting the parts after trial fitting.
Priming represents the first step when treating the surface. Additional steps such as sanding, cleaning, and filling are still to be completed.
For the finishing coat, we recommend following the guidelines provided to you by your paint supplier.
We would like to point out that PUR parts are made from a self skinning foam and may therefore have pores on the outer surface. These
have to be repaired by appropriate means, e. g., by filling and priming.
For a surface cleaner, we recommend using the plastics cleaner No. 85-81 from Spies-Hecker.
In order to avoid deformation of the parts due to material shrinkage, we recommend painting the parts off the vehicle and drying them at
max. 35-40 °C.
Follow these steps when painting:
Support the parts in a similar position to that which they are to be mounted on the vehicle. Don't allow the parts to bend, sag, or deform
during painting and drying. Deposit the parts carefully, otherwise you will encounter problems when mounting them, e. g., corrugation and
tensions in the part.
Preparing for the finishing coat:
Clean the part with plastics cleaner.
Sand the part with sandpaper (grain 600).
Remove all dust from the part.
If necessary, fill in any pores in the surface and wet-sand the part.
Clean the part with silicone remover.
Check the part and fix faults if necessary.
Finishing Coat: Solid Paint
* Mix 2 pack acrylic paint with 30 % elasticiser.
* Add to this mixture, 2 to 1 parts by volume, the 2 pack hardener and then add
thinners if necessary.
Finishing Coat: Metallic Two-Layer Paint
Finishing coat using metallic two-layer paint
* Paint 1st layer with metallic base coat.
* For 2nd layer, mix 30 % elasticiser with the 2 pack clear coat.
* Add to this mixture, 2 to 1 parts by volume, the 2 pack hardener and then add
thinners if necessary.
Caution:
Never dry parts at more than 35-40 °C. During painting and drying all parts must be set down fully supported in order to avoid deformation.
Do not cover up the part number with paint.
Notes:
We recommend marking the inside of the painted part with the VIN to ease identification in the case of theft.
Guidelines for painting OETTINGER auto body parts
A visual improvement of the parts and of the vehicle as a whole is achieved by painting the parts after trial fitting.
Priming represents the first step when treating the surface. Additional steps such as sanding, cleaning, and filling are still to be completed.
For the finishing coat, we recommend following the guidelines provided to you by your paint supplier.
We would like to point out that PUR parts are made from a self skinning foam and may therefore have pores on the outer surface. These
have to be repaired by appropriate means, e. g., by filling and priming.
For a surface cleaner, we recommend using the plastics cleaner No. 85-81 from Spies-Hecker.
In order to avoid deformation of the parts due to material shrinkage, we recommend painting the parts off the vehicle and drying them at
max. 35-40 °C.
Follow these steps when painting:
Support the parts in a similar position to that which they are to be mounted on the vehicle. Don't allow the parts to bend, sag, or deform
during painting and drying. Deposit the parts carefully, otherwise you will encounter problems when mounting them, e. g., corrugation and
tensions in the part.
Preparing for the finishing coat:
Clean the part with plastics cleaner.
Sand the part with sandpaper (grain 600).
Remove all dust from the part.
If necessary, fill in any pores in the surface and wet-sand the part.
Clean the part with silicone remover.
Check the part and fix faults if necessary.
Finishing Coat: Solid Paint
* Mix 2 pack acrylic paint with 30 % elasticiser.
* Add to this mixture, 2 to 1 parts by volume, the 2 pack hardener and then add
thinners if necessary.
Finishing Coat: Metallic Two-Layer Paint
Finishing coat using metallic two-layer paint
* Paint 1st layer with metallic base coat.
* For 2nd layer, mix 30 % elasticiser with the 2 pack clear coat.
* Add to this mixture, 2 to 1 parts by volume, the 2 pack hardener and then add
thinners if necessary.
Caution:
Never dry parts at more than 35-40 °C. During painting and drying all parts must be set down fully supported in order to avoid deformation.
Do not cover up the part number with paint.
Notes:
We recommend marking the inside of the painted part with the VIN to ease identification in the case of theft.
09-12-2006, 03:33 PM
#18
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i never got that page - oh well - it fit perfect -
just the side skirts got a little warped but the glue held them straight.
as for the baking - i told the guy 3 times - DONT PUT THE KIT IN THE OVEN - but he did
as for the baking - i told the guy 3 times - DONT PUT THE KIT IN THE OVEN - but he did
09-12-2006, 04:19 PM
#19
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Indeed I also feel your pain...
In my homeland of Ireland, it is extremely expensive...
21% sales tax on the car, and after that one has to pay Vehicle Registration Tax which is 30% of the total price. (i.e. 30% of car price+21% tax)
Needless to say I did not have a Audi in Ireland...
21% sales tax on the car, and after that one has to pay Vehicle Registration Tax which is 30% of the total price. (i.e. 30% of car price+21% tax)
Needless to say I did not have a Audi in Ireland...
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