jjswls

what is easier - swapping from auto to manual or vice versa. i'm considering doing it if it isn't too hard(a to m), and are 5 speed manuals cheap s/hand? opinions anyone?

MikTip

I've swapped my Auto for a manual!

Here's a few prior posts on the subject:

https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/2985.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/2974.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/3815.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/4918.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/4914.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/5539.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/5308.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/5775.phtml

The manual "bolts-in"! However there a few items to take note on!

First the bolts which mount the manual to the engine. You'll need to get 5 extra bolts as they are different from the Auto-2-manual.

When you get the parts you'll need the following:

gearbox with both L&R mounts intact & all hardware
Both L & R drive axles complete
clutch & flywheel assembly
Master 2 slave hydraulic line
entire foot pedal assembly
entire shift mechanism & center console piece

Items I recommend you get "New":

clutch disk
CV Boot kits(2 inner-2 outer)
flywheel bolts
clutch master & slave cylinders
Seal kit for gearbox
Rear crankshaft main seal

The gearbox L & R mounts may need to be replaced?
They are designed to snap off in an accident, because of the PROCON system.

While the gearbox is out change her seals! Front, 2 sides and shift level. Better to do now, then have to pull and do again! Also change the oil in the GB.

The foot pedal setup has the shafts to hang the clutch pedal from. Requires you to pull the steering colum to install, and the instrument cluster. Its better to get it "complete" and install complete, than try and fiddle with all the small parts one at a time.

Flywheel bolts are of "One time use" stretch bolts so ya got to get new ones.

To remove the AT you need to disconnect and remove the steering tie rods where the attach to the steering actuator, behind the engine. Plus the 2 exhaust down pipes & lower sub frame need to come off. Both axles are different, but your CV joints should work on either set of axles. Recommend new CV boots when you swap.
<img src="http://home.ec.rr.com/miktip/sideunderright.jpg" border="0">

Once the AT is out, there's a steel bushing in the crack shaft end. On mine I broke 2 large pullers trying to remove the bushing, which finally had to be "cut" out. Using a head porting tool and rotary cutting bit. Fun!
Also change the rear crank shaft seal while your there! Better to do now than "have to" pull the gearbox again to do!

<img src="http://home.ec.rr.com/miktip/crankseal1.jpg" border="0">

Last but not least, buy or borrow the Factory Repair manual, Bentley. You'll need it!

Took me 4 days just to do the R&amp;R job! But its out,

<img src="http://home.ec.rr.com/miktip/autotrans.jpg" border="0">

and I havent looked back! ;O)

Quite an improvement! Prefer the manual much more over the auto!

JustinOOOO

If you have a typ89 (88-92), it's more thorough than a B4(93-95)

jjswls

excellent post!!!
very helpful, except all up i'm looking at ~AU$2700 for all the parts. i paid $5700 for the car, so this might go on the burner for awhile....

silversurf3r

Thanks ..degree of difficulty 10