VAP

First off let me say I believe I've accomplished the strongest, safest, quietest and most high tolerance, precision-fit Audi-specific coilover conversion kit available anywhere in the world today. When paired with larger-piston'd/better-valved UrS4 Bilstein sport front strut inserts at front "and" rear of the small-chassied Audi this makes for an incredible handling car using "off-the-shelf" components. Doesnt hurt that it also comes in at about 20% less than the pre-packaged coilover kits out there and is guaranteed to raise an eyebrow or two when running against those setups!

The threaded height adjustment sleeves are SUCH a precision fit to the strut tubes as-is they don't require any adhesive/fixative whatsoever to keep them quietly in place when fitted to the strut tubes. They don't move so therefore they dont rattle/vibrate when in place and working. They are simply machined right, the first time so that they are a snug "slip-fit" over the existing strut tubes and Big-Bore Strut Extenders if used. They also feature 50% more threads per inch than the competition.

The upper perches are both taller/thicker and have a larger OD than any other CCK perch available. The reasons for this are both obvious and not-so obvious. The heavier mass absorbs and reduces NVH that would otherwise be transferred into the chassis at the strut mount. This allows me to make even stronger/firmer Mount-Saver2 solid inserts within the Pro-Mounts that the CCK's are purpose-designed to work with. The upper perches can also support up to 2,200 rate springs comfortably with an additional 25% safety margin whereas other perches can fail at anything above 1,000lb springs. Not that you'll ever need or use it but nice to know it's there if you ever bottom-out a coil-spring or stack a coilover spring solid.

The lower perches are also stronger and have fully 50% more threads per inch than the other height-adjustment perches available. They have internal spring guides that are taller and larger OD for a tighter, more noise-free fit than the competition even "before" addition of the urethane spring insulators. In fact no other CCK out there would have much, if any internal spring guide remaining if my urethane insulators were used on their upper/lower perches. Both my upper/lower perches were purpose-built to use these urethane insulators and therefore allowances were made when machining upper/lower internal spring guides. They fit because they were purpose-designed to be used and work together from get-go rather than an after-thought. My lower perches being a "split-ring" design also use a stainless clamping screw. All of those screws and their threaded bores within the split-ring are treated with a marine grade anti-seize compound during assembly. Stainless and aluminum, whether anodized or not create electrolysis and cause a galvanic response which if left unchecked creates corrosion and seizure if it isn't suppressed. This is evident when you try to tighten or loosen this combination of fasteners and at their torque threshhold they start to "click" and move incrementally rather than smoothly. The use of a good marine-grade anti-seize eliminates all potential for any of this bad stuff to take hold. And I've done this for you... no lower perch leaves here without having anti-seize applied to the bolt and bore. "Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

My laser-cut weld-on rings are such a good, tight fit to the Audi strut tubes they dont even require welding on the front. Just dress any high spots in the weld around the steering arms so the rings sit level then slip them on and they're good to go, as-is, without welding. Rears require welding since there's no support under them to hold em in place. Do NOT try this with anyone else's weld-on rings as their ID is too large and they will wobble all over the place! Remember, other CCK components were made to fit several/many make & model applications. My CCK's are made to fit only 1 strut... Audi!!

Urethane rings are precision-fit and die cut. They are the ultimate durometer hardness and thickness for maximum sound insulating when sandwiched between 2 dissimilar metals. They are permanent and will never wear out or diminish in their effectiveness. They are a tight stretch-fit on the perches. In fact they are such a tight fit that once installed you cannot sling them off either perch no matter how hard you try.

Both VAP CCK upper & lower perch internal spring guides are also a far tighter fit within the 2.5" coilover springs. In fact they are such a good fit that with a split-ring lower perch some grinding to the bottom "flat" on the coilover spring "may" still be required. Best done with a Dremel using a sanding drum on the spring flat where it's cut. NEVER ON THE LOWER PERCH!! Takes less than 60 seconds and only necessary on "some" springs but not all. Seems a bit of the spring metal is "smeared" into the ID when springs are cut/ground. But far better to err on the side of a tight fit than loose. "Loose" is a noise-maker while tight is silent. Again, "ounce of prevention... "

It bears repeating here than my CCK's will only fit and/or work with Mance-Mount and/or Pro-Mount strut mounts. They neither fit, work with nor are warrantied for ANY other strut mount, PERIOD!! And there's a VERY good reason for this, ie; "Lifetime Warranty." Both of my "approved" spherical bearing strut mounts will create a very distinctive and high profile evident wear pattern into the upper perches surrounding the strut insert threaded shaft bore. I will know in a heartbeat if any other mount was used when/if warranty is requested upon physical inspection of the components. And any component found to have been used in a non-covered strut mount or altered in an effort to cover the evidence will be rejected summarily for any warranty coverage. I will know so don't even think about it! I've gone to GREAT lengths to insure it cannot be done. No other spherical bearing in the world will leave the residual tell-tale indentation mine does on an upper perch as it's custom-made for me and no one else.

And now for costs as these won't be listed on my site for a few monyhs.

Special Pricing for first 30 days!!
CCK: $189.95 per pair/$329.95 per set of 4 (F/R)
After 30 days: $200pr/$380/4 (F/R)

Big-Bore strut extenders: $55 per pair

Component parts if ordered separately:

One complete CCK1 corner complete) $129

Upper Perch: $46 plus additional machine work if if required when ordering for Koni or KW coilover kits to work with Pro-Mounts

Lower Perch: $60

Threaded Sleeve: $35

Urethane Sound Insulators (pairs only): $16.00

All prices include lower 48 shipping. Canadian orders add $18 to CCK prices and $10 to BBSE & component part pricing.

CrazyCab

Just to clarify, SSM's are included in that list ?

VAP

have gone the way of the dinosaur.

tree580

to go from a stock suspension to a full VAP CCK setup, we're looking at the following:

VAP CKK kit - $330
VAP Pro-mounts - $390
UrS4 Bilsteins (4 fronts, correct?) - $480
Big-bore strut extenders - $110
springs of our choice - $200ish

So, basically about $1500?

Zzak

I have mount savers for the rear now and SSM's in the front.

VAP

first it's CCK (coilover conversion kit) rather than CKK (coilover konversion kit ;-) and many/most already have done Mance-Mounts/Pro-Mounts that are serious candidates for this kind of suspension upgrade. Other than that you're on target except for BBSE's arent required at all if stock Bilsteins are used and only on fronts if UrS4/6 Bilsteins are desired a as rear strut tubes arent swaged down like the front struts for these cars.

And when "works struts" become available that price could nearly double again. These type mods are not for the faint-of-heart/shallow of pocket or less than seriously motivated enthusiast.

Additionally there are cheaper options out there. You can purchase GC conversion kits for $400 including springs and you still buy shocks or you can opt for "just" threaded sleeves and perches from places like A1 Racing all of which will save you a few hundred dollars and wont work with Pro-Mounts but some people couldn't care less about a total designed system and only wanna save money. I'm ok with that. Hell, I'd drop doing all of this like a bad transmission if EVERYONE wanted my stuff! I just dabble at this. Dont wanna come out of retirement to do it.

VAP

But you can deduct the price you paid for the Mount-Savers and buy Pro-Mounts for $60 less per pair then use your existing Mount-Savers inside the new Pro-Mounts. But my CCK upper perches will bottom-out solid against the Boge strut mount bearing housing and all other OE strut mounts fully 1/4" before contacting the thrust bearings used in OE strut mounts. And if I make adapters/spacers there's insufficient threads to get any nut, no matter how thin up top to hold the cupped washer in place. Simply cannot be done due to the slotted nut used in OEM strut mounts. That's one of the reasons why the slotted nut is eliminated on EVERY strut mount I make or have ever made.

Nvncibl

I need - VAP CKK kit - $330
I need - VAP Pro-mounts - $390
I need - Bilsteins (part number ???) (4 fronts, correct?) - $ ????

I have - Alex's Eibach springs - $170ish

So, basically about $?????

Sorry if thats confusing.

VAP

on the rear. Reason being is the non big-bore Bilstein strut caps from standard fronts wont fit the larger rear strut tube thread diameter. And big bore strut caps wont transfer/fit the small bore Bilsteins hydraulic tubes. If big-bore isn't desired you're stuck with normal small-bore front/rear Bilsteins that were specifically designed to be used on the car in the front and rear.

Luxus Panzer

so I could use the set of Bilstin fronts a for a B4 90 and the A4 Rears (1996) that I have already sitting on my floor to build a CCK without the BBSE's ???????
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I already got pro mounts of course