POS cooling
04-10-2007, 11:16 AM
#1
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POS cooling
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/81274/pos_00s.jpg"></center><p>When I installed the 20-valve turbo AAN in my coupe last year I decided the POS's needed better cooling than on the S4. $3.80x2 from newegg.com for a couple of cpu heatsinks and voila, POS's as cool as a cucumber. Added extra ground wires as well, just in case. Everything for less than 10 bucks and I have 2 extra cpu sockets.
04-10-2007, 11:27 AM
#3
no skin off my nose. I'm not ecstatic about making heatsinks for anyone other than me...
and even then, only occasionally, if/when I see fit or a specific need arises.
Feel free to share this at the 12V Development forum as well. Heatsinks are not my favorite and ya gotta know the "going outta bidness" banners won't be flying outside as the result of any lack of heatsinks CNC'd here. $16 a-pop profit after materials, anodizing, fasteners, tooling & shipping doesnt pump a lot of cool breezes up my skirt even in GP quantities of 10. But I'm happy to help out when I can.
Feel free to share this at the 12V Development forum as well. Heatsinks are not my favorite and ya gotta know the "going outta bidness" banners won't be flying outside as the result of any lack of heatsinks CNC'd here. $16 a-pop profit after materials, anodizing, fasteners, tooling & shipping doesnt pump a lot of cool breezes up my skirt even in GP quantities of 10. But I'm happy to help out when I can.
04-10-2007, 11:33 AM
#6
effectiveness and heat dissipation surface area. Couldnt find a pre-made one as effective...
as I could make in-house with the surface area and/or temp drop I was seeking. And all of them in the size I wanted were closer to $30-a-pop plus shipping and would have to be cut down on one or both dimension as well as be made thinner/shorter finned. Heck, cheaper/easier to DIY from scratch with a blank billet thats already lying around collecting dust and doesn't cost me a penny to pick up off the rack & use! Where's the perceived flaw in that!?!
And when ya have a "heat dissipation surface" as found on the rear of all POS Modules that surface needs to nestle against a flat 100% contact mated surface and not against interrupted pins or fins for maximum heat to be drawn out of and away from the module. Thats why in stock form they all sit mated against flat metal contact surfaces rather than against pinned/finned surfaces. Same with MAF modules, CPU's et al. Its the first rule of heat sinks.
My time and using my machine tools for this is no "waste." Whats wasteful is having them and/or me sitting here doing nothing. Same could be said about why you'd pick up a wrench and do anything on your own car when there's people out there who'd just love to do it for you. I do this for the same reasons you do do your own work, ie; no one else will do it better and we both like doing it and get satisfaction from it. My time, my energy and my tools and their use are goverened by the same rules you apply to your time, energy and tools. Wasteful? Only when/if you view yours thusly and only to you. Nothings a waste if there is satisfaction in doing it. And yes, in this case, making the best damn heatsink customized for a specific need and aspplication gave me pleasure... satisfied a need. I thrive on that stuff! Eat it up! Can't get enough! Oh and by the way my heatsink didnt cost me even as much as the DIY one above cost him. Mine was a couple hours doing some challenging work and not a dime outta-pocket. So sue me for my wastefulness, my doing what I like, when I like and my sense of fun and adventure. Who's time and machines is it to waste anyway!?!
Glad no one mentioned what I had to do to offset the weight that heatsink added. Heatsink'd cam position sensor cover and cam cover on opposite bank. Talk about wasteful... but nothing goes in without an equal or greater weight coming off. It's the rule! ;-)
And when ya have a "heat dissipation surface" as found on the rear of all POS Modules that surface needs to nestle against a flat 100% contact mated surface and not against interrupted pins or fins for maximum heat to be drawn out of and away from the module. Thats why in stock form they all sit mated against flat metal contact surfaces rather than against pinned/finned surfaces. Same with MAF modules, CPU's et al. Its the first rule of heat sinks.
My time and using my machine tools for this is no "waste." Whats wasteful is having them and/or me sitting here doing nothing. Same could be said about why you'd pick up a wrench and do anything on your own car when there's people out there who'd just love to do it for you. I do this for the same reasons you do do your own work, ie; no one else will do it better and we both like doing it and get satisfaction from it. My time, my energy and my tools and their use are goverened by the same rules you apply to your time, energy and tools. Wasteful? Only when/if you view yours thusly and only to you. Nothings a waste if there is satisfaction in doing it. And yes, in this case, making the best damn heatsink customized for a specific need and aspplication gave me pleasure... satisfied a need. I thrive on that stuff! Eat it up! Can't get enough! Oh and by the way my heatsink didnt cost me even as much as the DIY one above cost him. Mine was a couple hours doing some challenging work and not a dime outta-pocket. So sue me for my wastefulness, my doing what I like, when I like and my sense of fun and adventure. Who's time and machines is it to waste anyway!?!
Glad no one mentioned what I had to do to offset the weight that heatsink added. Heatsink'd cam position sensor cover and cam cover on opposite bank. Talk about wasteful... but nothing goes in without an equal or greater weight coming off. It's the rule! ;-)
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04-10-2007, 12:19 PM
#10
The very first order of cooling is thru "contact" heat transfer/migration...
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/posheatsink5.jpg"></center><p>
you cant cool the module internally but you can cause it's internal heat to migrate out and into a heatsink and backing plate where it can cool quicker, more efficiently via heatsink density and enlarged surface area dissipation. The module has a specific backing plate built-in, designed for 100% surface-mated contact with a flat surface to help accomplish it. You can't draw/migrate the heat out of the module backing plate effectively without 100% surface-to-surface contact. These surfaces are found on most heat-sensitive modules from CPU's to MAF modules and yep, even POS modules.
This heatsink started life as a 2.5" x 5" x 1/2" thick billet or 12.5 sq inch surface. Its finished top heatsink surface area after machining with cross-drilling is over 5 times larger at 62+ sq inches today.
With a mated heat-transfer surface you get maximum heat transfer/migration out of the module and into the heatsink.... thats why my heatsink isn't machined in the module footprint area but it is cross-drilled under the "flat" for cross-flow ventilation. That alone took an additional 47*F out of the module body temperature. Adding a heat transfer paste helps even more. I used Lub-O-Seal 1,800*F copper anti-seize for its copper content (an excellent thermally conductive metal) heat transfer/non-melting qualities.
Lapping the two heat-transfer surfaces together helps even more and lapping the heat sink back to the mounting plate face further enhances heat migration/transfer into heatsink as well as heatsink mounting/backing plate, further increasing heat migration out of the module where it can be dissipated over a large area and cooled.
Sure its overkill... my nature. But when being a dog, or having a choice on breed, why insist on Chihuahua!?!
you cant cool the module internally but you can cause it's internal heat to migrate out and into a heatsink and backing plate where it can cool quicker, more efficiently via heatsink density and enlarged surface area dissipation. The module has a specific backing plate built-in, designed for 100% surface-mated contact with a flat surface to help accomplish it. You can't draw/migrate the heat out of the module backing plate effectively without 100% surface-to-surface contact. These surfaces are found on most heat-sensitive modules from CPU's to MAF modules and yep, even POS modules.
This heatsink started life as a 2.5" x 5" x 1/2" thick billet or 12.5 sq inch surface. Its finished top heatsink surface area after machining with cross-drilling is over 5 times larger at 62+ sq inches today.
With a mated heat-transfer surface you get maximum heat transfer/migration out of the module and into the heatsink.... thats why my heatsink isn't machined in the module footprint area but it is cross-drilled under the "flat" for cross-flow ventilation. That alone took an additional 47*F out of the module body temperature. Adding a heat transfer paste helps even more. I used Lub-O-Seal 1,800*F copper anti-seize for its copper content (an excellent thermally conductive metal) heat transfer/non-melting qualities.
Lapping the two heat-transfer surfaces together helps even more and lapping the heat sink back to the mounting plate face further enhances heat migration/transfer into heatsink as well as heatsink mounting/backing plate, further increasing heat migration out of the module where it can be dissipated over a large area and cooled.
Sure its overkill... my nature. But when being a dog, or having a choice on breed, why insist on Chihuahua!?!