Here is a picture of Ubernugen vs. Blau strut mounts i got. Lets have everyone say what they think?

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Old 01-08-2005, 12:49 PM
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Default good brands......

suspension: moog, boge, Febi/Bilstein, kyb (ok quality, Lemforder (usually really good), Sachs

most of the above are OEM manufacturers...

if you het a part that has scratch marks, or the logo scratched off, and is in a non-OEM box, the part actually is an OEM piece...that you arent paying extra for by having the OEM logo on...

other good brands: ZF, TRW, ARI rebuilt stuff, Pierburg, BOSCH (duh), ATE (oem), Beru, akebono, Brembo, Contitech, GEBA, Hella, GMB, hengst (filters), Jurid (brakes), Ferodo (brakes), Mahle (good everything!), denso, NGK, Pagid, Goetez, Victor Reinz, Textar, and a few others..


VERY few companies make crap parts ALL ACCROSS THE BOARD, but Meyle is one of them....
Old 01-08-2005, 02:27 PM
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520
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Default Here is Meyle vs. Febi Bilstein mounts, both stock....

Left is Meyle, notice the more "full" rubber design, not sure if it makes any difference.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37962/dsc02468.jpg">
And here is tho bottom side, notice how Febi mount's bearing is sitting higher up in the rubber mount. Again, not sure if it has any effect on its performance.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37962/dsc02467.jpg">
Old 01-08-2005, 02:44 PM
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Default As I mentioned below the "new" Meyle is a bit stronger than "all" other contemporary mounts...

or at least all I've tested which consist of 5 total. It is absolutely capable of taking a 340lb heavier axial (vertical) load but that pales to the loads we endure in a day-to-day commute which likely approaches 5-6,000psi on a serious speed bump or pot-hole taken at speed. That particular mount however is clearly a step above all other contemporary OEM mounts. And I know Meyle isnt known for quality. But at least they're now making an "attempt" to beat the others. The others I tested including Audi, Lemforder, Conteco and Febi-Bilstein were clearly handed their *** by the "new" style Meyle. But in the overall scheme of things its nowhere near enough.
Old 01-08-2005, 02:51 PM
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Default Cool....so i guess I should get another one of those, or even better, save up and get UK ones.

You won't be making any available for sale are you?
Old 01-08-2005, 02:59 PM
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Default I'll know early next week. I'm farming out to a CNC shop...

as there's too many machine steps for me to make them "one-up" on my lathe and this is definately a lathe rather than mill item. My nursing a broken left ankle right now doesnt allow for extended standing at the lathe all day producing parts.

I would expect $300 minimum per pair (about half of the UK pieces) but could go as high as $400pr. Mine "should" weigh 1/3 or less of the british units and I "know" my custom alloy steel spherical bearing will kill the UK units for strength/life. That bearing is "quadruple over-engineered" for the application. Mine also should allow for strut R&amp;R for shock/bearing/spring removal/replacement with no spring compressor. Straight up "drop &amp; swap" strut removal with one nut up top and sway bar link below. And mine will have a provision for adjustable ride heights in 1mm increments to + or - 6.5mm of standard strut mount height. I'm also working on a way to incorporate a roller thrust bearing to eliminate frictional losses and reduce spring bind but that feature "may" end up being for coil-over applications only when I get around to those.

But I'm only going to make "x number" and from that I'll retain a couple spares for wrecks and replacements and thats it. I wont buy into everyone who says "I'll take em!" as I get burned every time I do that. I'll make a number I can live with "fiscally" and when they're gone, they're gone. Bsides I know most everyone here who's into the "serious performance" stuff and who "bites" whenever I cast my line of new suspension pieces into the water and believe I can guess within a pair or two of these how many will step up to the plate when the time comes. Far better I be short a few pair if I guess wrong than have 20 pair I have to eat. BTDT!!

But the UK ones are available now and my feelings wont be hurt one bit if people go that way. "bird in the hand" ya know.
Old 01-08-2005, 03:25 PM
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Default Re: I'll know early next week. I'm farming out to a CNC shop...

Already...keep us posted
Old 01-09-2005, 06:57 AM
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Default Mance, the Type43/44 uses a roller bearing just how you want to.

Part isn't prohibitively expensive, and should work with the factory spring size. I too am looking to add a roller bearing in, but for the coil-overs (2.5" spring). Spring bind on my car is an issue.
Old 01-09-2005, 07:10 AM
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Default Re: Mance, the Type43/44 uses a roller bearing just how you want to.

<img src="http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/L303539043.JPG">

Taylor Automotive has that one (441 412 249A) for $21.90 each.

It is sized 102.9 x 81 x 15mm.
Old 01-09-2005, 07:16 AM
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Default Do you mean the nylon encased ball-bearing race up top on the 43/44?

I tried that early on for the B4 and its too large. The strut mount housing in the B4 is only a 3" diameter and the upper perch sits sits 3" + or- below it. The 43/44 type rollers are relatively thin (maybe .500" thick) but WAY too large a diameter (maybe 5") to snick into the B4 strut tower mount retaining stamped housing.

In testing I too have found coil bind to be an issue but not too bad on stock springs even if aftermarket/lower/stiffer springs are used. But on my Ohlins setup, and I assume most other coilover setups it will be a significant issue. Especially with more caster/camber dialed in.
Old 01-09-2005, 07:22 AM
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Default Yep, thats the part. Way way too large a diameter to work in the B4

if it were a 2.5" ID with a 3" OD and about 1/4" thick it could be adapted. My plan calls for a 42,000psi needle roller thrust bearing to be used at the top of the spring perch between it and the solid strut mount. The stock 43/44 uses ball bearings in a plastic race/cage which are fine for street or slightly modified suspension but not up to the task of extended/prolonged track use. Roller bearings on some Rockwell hardness Rc 60-65 upper/lower races will outlast the plastic parts by 50:1 or more. That will allow spring to rotate freely as it stages thru compression/de-compression without binding no matter where the turn radius is or under any load. As long as one end of spring is free it cannot bind. It'll further be isolated from the strut cartridge hydraulic tube as well as the spherical bearing via that thrust bearing. All steering/suspension geometries at that point will be independent and as friction/bind free as is possible short of free-floating the Ohlins within bearings inside the strut tube with another thrust bearing under and on top of the strut cartridge. All of which I've considered since I'm making my own strut tubes for the Ohlins to fit the stock hubs. Easy enough to do but overkill for my intended purpose. But dont think for a minute if I were building a true race car I wouldnt do it! Amazing how much longer shocks live when free-floated in a fully bearing'd tube due to them rotating and deflecting loads all the way around their piston/sleeve diameter rather than in one spot constantly.


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