f4guy905

I recently bought a valve cover replacement kit from blauparts that included the tensioner and cam gaskets. I am going to jump into the job next weekend, but wanted to see if there was any special tool or advice that I would need to make the job go smoother. I have a standard 3/4" and 1/2" socket set with extensions, but in some videos, I have seen guys using 1/4" ratchets to get in behind the cover and firewall. I do have a gasket scraper and inspection mirror. Thanks in advance!

twentysevenlitres

Don't know if the V6's are the same, but the V8's use torx screws to hold the valve covers down, so you might want to check that (T27 from memory).
Torx bits with a 1/4 drive are better than keys in most cases, and if you plan to DIY other things on your car you'll end up needing them again

A 1/4 drive rachet and extensions are very useful for fiddly parts, but in most cases you'll get away with 3/8. For driver bits (with a 1/4 hex to 1/4 square driver socket) you'll at least need a 1/4 to 3/8 drive converter - very useful bit of kit!

Also check the clearance of the rear outer screws on the cover with the strut tower - I had barely any clearance with the passenger side on the V8 and ended up fidling with a torx bit and a 1/4" spanner! I've since bought a specific low profile 1/4" hex female rachet so I don't get caught by that one again!

chadthede1

I just replaced the valve cover gaskets on my wife's 2005 Allroad 4.2L. twentysevenlitres is right, on the 4.2L some of the outside and back bolts were hard to get to. I think it was a T30 but it might have been a T27. I had to use a small bit from a driver set and a 1/4" wrench to get one of them off(and that bugger was tight!). I used a telescoping magnet to hold the bit to the wrench. I also had to loosen the bolts on the driver side heat shield so that I could bend it a little to fit a ratchet in there. 2 of the torx bolts rounded off a little when I tried to loosen them because I had a hard time getting the ratchet straight and the bit in all the way with that heat shield in the way. I put those bolts on the top where they are easy to get to when I put it back together.
There is a technote that also shows where to put a couple of beads of sealant when you put it back together. It may not apply to all models. I don't have it here to copy it to you but I looked it up through my local library website.
I changed the spark plugs while I had all of the interference removed. It was about due anyway.
My only question was if I should have changed out the rubber piece that seals around the breather hole. It was kind of hardened after 104,000 miles.