2.0T 06 A3 Broken Oil Filter Canister
#1
2.0T 06 A3 Broken Oil Filter Canister
Hello, All ... need some feedback from those who've been down the DIY oil change on a 2006 A3 with the 2.0 liter turbo. I just tried to perform my first out-of-warranty oil change on my wife's A3, and snapped off the 36 mm hex nut from the end of the oil filter canister. I was using a proper 36 mm socket when I did it.
Has this ever happened to anyone - and if if did - how did you resolve it? I've read some posts from others who've changed their own oil in the same engine, and noticed they didn't have any problems. I didn't drain the filter canister first with the Audi or aftermarket tool - but can't see how that would make any difference. I had drained the crankcase before, and the oil filler cap was not installed, so it's not like I had 10,000 psi in the canister, locking it in place and preventing it from turning.
The last oil change was at a local Audi dealer, and my gut tells me the tech honked on the canister with a breaker bar or something, or didn't lube the O-ring. It's supposed to be tightened to 25.5 Newton meters, which translates to 18.8 foot pounds of torque - but that sucker was tighter than the tightest lug nut.
As for me, I've made maybe 250 oil changes in my life, on everything from Audis to VWs. I do my own maintenance, from timing belts to brakes, have rebuilt carbs and adjusted valves, etc etc, and I keep my cars well past 100Kmi, so it's not like I'm a klutz beneath the hood. I sure as hell felt like one when I snapped that SOB off, though ... and yes - I know: righty tighty, lefty loosey.
I intend to take this up with the dealership - either the owner, or certainly the service manager. Would I be wrong if I stated there is no way that fitting would have snapped off the canister if it was torqued correctly? I have a notion to demand the dealer bring a tow truck to my garage and take the A3 back to his dealership for repair on his nickel.
Thanks in advance for your observations/advice/opinions/sympathy.
Best regards, Don
Has this ever happened to anyone - and if if did - how did you resolve it? I've read some posts from others who've changed their own oil in the same engine, and noticed they didn't have any problems. I didn't drain the filter canister first with the Audi or aftermarket tool - but can't see how that would make any difference. I had drained the crankcase before, and the oil filler cap was not installed, so it's not like I had 10,000 psi in the canister, locking it in place and preventing it from turning.
The last oil change was at a local Audi dealer, and my gut tells me the tech honked on the canister with a breaker bar or something, or didn't lube the O-ring. It's supposed to be tightened to 25.5 Newton meters, which translates to 18.8 foot pounds of torque - but that sucker was tighter than the tightest lug nut.
As for me, I've made maybe 250 oil changes in my life, on everything from Audis to VWs. I do my own maintenance, from timing belts to brakes, have rebuilt carbs and adjusted valves, etc etc, and I keep my cars well past 100Kmi, so it's not like I'm a klutz beneath the hood. I sure as hell felt like one when I snapped that SOB off, though ... and yes - I know: righty tighty, lefty loosey.
I intend to take this up with the dealership - either the owner, or certainly the service manager. Would I be wrong if I stated there is no way that fitting would have snapped off the canister if it was torqued correctly? I have a notion to demand the dealer bring a tow truck to my garage and take the A3 back to his dealership for repair on his nickel.
Thanks in advance for your observations/advice/opinions/sympathy.
Best regards, Don
#2
Don, I don't know the answer to your question. I can only tell you it just happened to me. It seemed like it was a bit over-torqued, but not dramatic, and why did they have the brilliant idea to construct that canister of brittle plastic?? What's wrong with alloy steel or even alu?? Anyway, I just ordered the aluminum version from ECS tuning . If anyone has any experience with that, please let me know.
This car is new to me (it's my wife's) and I must say that I find a lot of it is designed rather awkwardly (just spent the better part of 3 hours replacing a headlight xenon bulb) and flimsy (when replacing spark plugs two connectors wiring to spark plug coils are broken, they work but don't 'click in' anymore).
Anyway, I should adjust my methods a bit perhaps since my experience is mostly on an all-carbon-steel jeep cherokee and a low-tech 90's mazda miata:-).
Tim
This car is new to me (it's my wife's) and I must say that I find a lot of it is designed rather awkwardly (just spent the better part of 3 hours replacing a headlight xenon bulb) and flimsy (when replacing spark plugs two connectors wiring to spark plug coils are broken, they work but don't 'click in' anymore).
Anyway, I should adjust my methods a bit perhaps since my experience is mostly on an all-carbon-steel jeep cherokee and a low-tech 90's mazda miata:-).
Tim
#3
Don, I don't know the answer to your question. I can only tell you it just happened to me. It seemed like it was a bit over-torqued, but not dramatic, and why did they have the brilliant idea to construct that canister of brittle plastic?? What's wrong with alloy steel or even alu?? Anyway, I just ordered the aluminum version from ECS tuning . If anyone has any experience with that, please let me know.
This car is new to me (it's my wife's) and I must say that I find a lot of it is designed rather awkwardly (just spent the better part of 3 hours replacing a headlight xenon bulb) and flimsy (when replacing spark plugs two connectors wiring to spark plug coils are broken, they work but don't 'click in' anymore).
Anyway, I should adjust my methods a bit perhaps since my experience is mostly on an all-carbon-steel jeep cherokee and a low-tech 90's mazda miata:-).
Tim
This car is new to me (it's my wife's) and I must say that I find a lot of it is designed rather awkwardly (just spent the better part of 3 hours replacing a headlight xenon bulb) and flimsy (when replacing spark plugs two connectors wiring to spark plug coils are broken, they work but don't 'click in' anymore).
Anyway, I should adjust my methods a bit perhaps since my experience is mostly on an all-carbon-steel jeep cherokee and a low-tech 90's mazda miata:-).
Tim
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