UrS4, I am thinking about getting the generic Bosch O2 sensors. What wire connections
09-09-2003, 01:39 PM
#2
sorry to butt in but I used Radio shack's butt connectors similar to this pic.
so far so good! "knock on wood"
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/42826/o2_sensors_splice.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/42826/o2_sensors_splice.jpg">
09-09-2003, 02:58 PM
#3
Ok, here's the deal on splicing generics. And it is important and should only be done one way...
1. This is HUGE! Do not use the ones like slowPearl recommended below. (sorry slowPearl but hear me out). Those are BIG butt-splice connectors and a HUGE draw on electricity/amps/voltage. They WILL affect sensor sensitivity, warm up time and reduce signal output from the sensor to the ECU. Use the very tiniest, thinnest-walled butt-splice connectors you can find with no insulating jacket. You can find them most electrical places as very tiny, thin and short.
2. When splicing the new sensor place it as close to the sensor harness plug as possible but DO NOT cut all 3 leads in the same place so that they are all equal length. The reason being is you're going to want to remove the silicone sleeve from the old sensor and use it on the new one. If all three leads are cut the same length then the bundle of butt splice connectors will be too large a diameter to slip the sleeve over. Far better to stagger the lengths you're going to splice so that no two are aide-by-side. This way the silicone heat sleeve will still work with a spliced 3-wire setup.
3. After cutting the 3 wires about 1.5" further down on each subsequent wire slip a small length of heat-shrink tubing over each of the wires before crimping it's butt splice connector. Once crimped, shrink the tubing with a heat source. Slide the silicone heat jacket up and over all the butt connectors which should now fit since they were all staggered during install. Plug the harness plug into it's mating plug on the firewall and you're done.
Below is a link to tiewraps.com that has the appropriate butt-splice connectors as well as the heat-shrink tubing. Great company to deal with.
Butt splice connectors part#: TNIB-18 18-22AWG
Heatshrink tubing#: THSSW-18 (1/8" PVC)
They only sell in 100qty for connectors and 4ft of heatshrink but they're cheap enough (sub-$10 for both) and you WILL need em again.
HTH<ul><li><a href="http://tiewraps.com/buttsplices.html">TieWraps.com</a></li></ul>
2. When splicing the new sensor place it as close to the sensor harness plug as possible but DO NOT cut all 3 leads in the same place so that they are all equal length. The reason being is you're going to want to remove the silicone sleeve from the old sensor and use it on the new one. If all three leads are cut the same length then the bundle of butt splice connectors will be too large a diameter to slip the sleeve over. Far better to stagger the lengths you're going to splice so that no two are aide-by-side. This way the silicone heat sleeve will still work with a spliced 3-wire setup.
3. After cutting the 3 wires about 1.5" further down on each subsequent wire slip a small length of heat-shrink tubing over each of the wires before crimping it's butt splice connector. Once crimped, shrink the tubing with a heat source. Slide the silicone heat jacket up and over all the butt connectors which should now fit since they were all staggered during install. Plug the harness plug into it's mating plug on the firewall and you're done.
Below is a link to tiewraps.com that has the appropriate butt-splice connectors as well as the heat-shrink tubing. Great company to deal with.
Butt splice connectors part#: TNIB-18 18-22AWG
Heatshrink tubing#: THSSW-18 (1/8" PVC)
They only sell in 100qty for connectors and 4ft of heatshrink but they're cheap enough (sub-$10 for both) and you WILL need em again.
HTH<ul><li><a href="http://tiewraps.com/buttsplices.html">TieWraps.com</a></li></ul>
09-09-2003, 06:51 PM
#5
Because at least on my car the wires were vulcanized/glued in...
and no amount of effort or prying could free them. I tried for hours on one plug to do just that to no avail. I finally gave up and saw why by dissecting the plug harness... the insulator the wires goes thru in the bottom of the plug is fused to the inside of the plastic harness and the wire that goes thru it is as well.
Secondly the leads in the generic sensors aren't long enough to reach the firewall-mounted plugs. or they weren't in my case.
If you know the secret, by all means, GIVE!!
Secondly the leads in the generic sensors aren't long enough to reach the firewall-mounted plugs. or they weren't in my case.
If you know the secret, by all means, GIVE!!
09-09-2003, 07:27 PM
#7
Because ALL of those encased in plastic are HUGE....
being 4 times larger than the non-insulted ones. I think they do that as something that the plastic insulator can adhere to and there's not enough surface area for that on the tiny un-insulated ones. Dissect one and you'll see what I mean.
If you feel you have enough excess wire to work with you can attempt a re-do. But if not it's not critical as it will work the way you've done it. It's just not as responsive or as quick to getup to temp as it could be.
If you feel you have enough excess wire to work with you can attempt a re-do. But if not it's not critical as it will work the way you've done it. It's just not as responsive or as quick to getup to temp as it could be.
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09-09-2003, 08:10 PM
#10
Re: Because ALL of those encased in plastic are HUGE....
what do you use to heat-shrink the tubing? Can I not use an electrical tape to cover up the butt connectors and hide it under the silicone heat sleeve?
I think I have plenty of wire hanging so I might have enough room to redo..
Tnx
I think I have plenty of wire hanging so I might have enough room to redo..
Tnx